How much brake fluid?

[blinkwatt]

Originally Posted by shaman1204

The tech said that Porsches are unique because the rotors need replaced with the pads. I only have 38K on what I assume are the originals. Do these need replaced?

Rotors don't need to be changed out w/ pads. Just as an estimate,rotors should last through 2 set of pad changes if you drive your car on the street. I think people that auto-x can pull 3-4 sets of pads until they need to change rotors.

[Paul]

You will need more than a quart to flush the brakes, so buy 2.

Don't replace the rotors until they warp.

Good luck with the track arms being covered, others have been told they have to be broken, not worn in order to be covered.

[shaman1204]

Originally Posted by Paul

You will need more than a quart to flush the brakes, so buy 2.

Don't replace the rotors until they warp.

Good luck with the track arms being covered, others have been told they have to be broken, not worn in order to be covered.

I bought the optional wear and tear coverage that says if the part does not operate as originally designed it can be replaced without being totally broke, so hopefully that applies here. The tech said the gaskets (or boots?) were gone and all the grease had been worn away leaving metal on metal contact. At least that is what I think he said. I swear these guys go to the loudest part of the garage when making these calls.

[NickCats]

Shaman,

Sammy and I just did my brakes late last year.

We needed a little more than one quart to flush. Buy two to be one the safe side. You can pick it up here ( in Barrington ) :

http://www.northstarmotorsports.com/products/sfID1/Brakes/sfID2/Racing+Brake+Fluid/manufacturer/Ate

http://www.northstarmotorsports.com/contact.us/

We did the pads and rotors. Sammy had this thing that measured the thickness of the rotors to determine if they needed to be replaced or not.

Hope this helps...

Nick

[cas951]

Using Motive power bleeder is the way to go. Before you purchase the brake fluid keep in mind what color your brake fluid you're already using. If possible use one that is a different color than what you already have so you will be able to see if you have new fluid coming out of the bleeder screw. Before I start the process I usually siphon as much fluid as I can from the master cylinder. I use a giant syringe to do this.

Replacing pads without changing rotors is very common among DIY mechanics. One problem you may face is the pad vs rotor mating surface is not true. The rotor already has a wear pattern and the pad is new and has no wear pattern. This may cause brake squeak, uneven braking or shimmying. You can correct this by breaking in the pad to the rotor. You do this by hard braking from 50 mph to 0mph hard. Do this about 10 times untill the pads are broken into the rotor wear pattern. Dealers or independent shops recommends or require replacing both or resurfacing rotors at the same time for a couple reasons.
1. Job is done right the 1st time
2. $$$$$$
3. No complaints and returns and a happy customer

[shaman1204]

Nick, thanks for the links, I'll have to pick some up next time I'm out that way.

cas951, thanks for the info for breaking the pads in. I'm going to check the thickness of the rotors before I spring for a new set.

[racer_d]

IIRC, several venders sell the OEM rotors and, to me, they are not that expensive. Agreed though, that needing to replace Pads and Rotors at the same time isn't too likely.