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Old 01-15-2008, 05:54 PM   #1
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How much brake fluid?

How much fluid do I need to bleed/flush the brakes? I am going to order a Motive power bleeder and do the brake pads at the same time.

On a side note, I took my '01 Base in to the dealer to have the rear suspension clunk that I've had since summer investigated. It was the rear track arms. That is when they told me I need brake pads/rotors and flush ($1700 for both). The tech said that Porsches are unique because the rotors need replaced with the pads. I only have 38K on what I assume are the originals. Do these need replaced?

They also found that my engine was leaking oil near the spark plugs into the catch pan. I said I have not seen oil on the ground at all and he said it was all in the catch pan and this is a common problem. My extended warranty is sending someone to verify the track arms and oil leak issue tomorrow, so I will let everyone know what the outcome is.
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Old 01-15-2008, 06:11 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shaman1204
The tech said that Porsches are unique because the rotors need replaced with the pads. I only have 38K on what I assume are the originals. Do these need replaced?
Rotors don't need to be changed out w/ pads. Just as an estimate,rotors should last through 2 set of pad changes if you drive your car on the street. I think people that auto-x can pull 3-4 sets of pads until they need to change rotors.
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Old 01-15-2008, 06:25 PM   #3
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You will need more than a quart to flush the brakes, so buy 2.

Don't replace the rotors until they warp.

Good luck with the track arms being covered, others have been told they have to be broken, not worn in order to be covered.
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Old 01-15-2008, 07:01 PM   #4
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You will need more than a quart to flush the brakes, so buy 2.

Don't replace the rotors until they warp.

Good luck with the track arms being covered, others have been told they have to be broken, not worn in order to be covered.

I bought the optional wear and tear coverage that says if the part does not operate as originally designed it can be replaced without being totally broke, so hopefully that applies here. The tech said the gaskets (or boots?) were gone and all the grease had been worn away leaving metal on metal contact. At least that is what I think he said. I swear these guys go to the loudest part of the garage when making these calls.
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Old 01-16-2008, 06:16 AM   #5
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Shaman,

Sammy and I just did my brakes late last year.

We needed a little more than one quart to flush. Buy two to be one the safe side. You can pick it up here ( in Barrington ) :

http://www.northstarmotorsports.com/products/sfID1/Brakes/sfID2/Racing+Brake+Fluid/manufacturer/Ate

http://www.northstarmotorsports.com/contact.us/

We did the pads and rotors. Sammy had this thing that measured the thickness of the rotors to determine if they needed to be replaced or not.

Hope this helps...

Nick
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Old 01-16-2008, 07:29 AM   #6
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Using Motive power bleeder is the way to go. Before you purchase the brake fluid keep in mind what color your brake fluid you're already using. If possible use one that is a different color than what you already have so you will be able to see if you have new fluid coming out of the bleeder screw. Before I start the process I usually siphon as much fluid as I can from the master cylinder. I use a giant syringe to do this.

Replacing pads without changing rotors is very common among DIY mechanics. One problem you may face is the pad vs rotor mating surface is not true. The rotor already has a wear pattern and the pad is new and has no wear pattern. This may cause brake squeak, uneven braking or shimmying. You can correct this by breaking in the pad to the rotor. You do this by hard braking from 50 mph to 0mph hard. Do this about 10 times untill the pads are broken into the rotor wear pattern. Dealers or independent shops recommends or require replacing both or resurfacing rotors at the same time for a couple reasons.
1. Job is done right the 1st time
2. $$$$$$
3. No complaints and returns and a happy customer
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Old 01-16-2008, 11:02 AM   #7
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Nick, thanks for the links, I'll have to pick some up next time I'm out that way.

cas951, thanks for the info for breaking the pads in. I'm going to check the thickness of the rotors before I spring for a new set.
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Old 01-16-2008, 12:26 PM   #8
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IIRC, several venders sell the OEM rotors and, to me, they are not that expensive. Agreed though, that needing to replace Pads and Rotors at the same time isn't too likely.
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Old 01-18-2008, 09:09 AM   #9
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Update:

Porsche tech called me and the the extended warranty company's inspector verified and agreed with all the issues, so hopefully they will be giving the dealer the green light to fix everything today.

I forgot to mention this in the first post, which I guess has nothing to do with the title, but I am also getting a motor fixed up near the cabin air filter intake. I was getting a clicking sound every time I turned off the ac/heater fan that I traced to a flap that opened/closed near the cabin filter when the fan was turned on/off.

I was also told I need a four wheel computerized alignment because of the suspension work that the warrant will not cover. I was told $325 for the job. I got an alignment when I first bought the car because I had new tires and for my own piece of mind and that cost $125. Should I bend over and let them do a "Porsche four wheel computerized alignment" or spend less than half and take it somewhere else?

And I realized I kinda hijacked my own thread.
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Old 01-18-2008, 10:02 PM   #10
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Tell them to skip the alignment, then take it to a Porsche racing shop and have it done correctly for less. By the way, if they give you any resistance, ask to see the alignment rack and the mechanic that will be assigned the job. Most Porsche dealers sub out alignments which means a kid will be assigned the task to drive your car to somewhere off site for the alignment.
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