The Houston 04 SE

[78F350]

Originally Posted by PaulE

Did the 2004 550 SE get the 987 upgraded ignition switch and lock assembly, just like it got the 987 air filter housing? I know they changed over the lock and switch at some point after my 2003. I had mine upgraded to after my second failed ignition switch.

Actually, that's what I was working on today. The ignition and steering lock assembly is the same as previous 986s:

[rusty69911]

hanging for the updates, love this, hope the water wasnt poo water?? dont lick it to test...

[78F350]

Originally Posted by rusty69911

hanging for the updates, love this, hope the water wasnt poo water?? dont lick it to test...

I was curious about the flooding and location. When I received the title, I did a little detective work with the previous owner's name (address wasn't listed on the insurance title). The house I identified is in this neighborhood, which was flooded by intentional release of a reservoir:


Here's an article: https://www.washingtonpost.com/graphics/2017/national/harvey-flood/?utm_term=.923c11be1dd3

[GTA_G20]

Question where did you pull your 550 SE build sheet. I have yet to see one like that

[78F350]

Originally Posted by GTA_G20

Question where did you pull your 550 SE build sheet. I have yet to see one like that

I read in this thread: http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-general-discussions/60610-free-build-sheet-vin.html

Use this link, except replace the VIN with your car's VIN:
https://admin.porschedealer.com/reports/build_sheets/print.php?vin=Wp0cb29872u662584

It seems that it does not work on all 986s. None of the '99s I've had show up, but my '01 does:
https://admin.porschedealer.com/reports/build_sheets/print.php?vin=WP0CA29871U624130

[78F350]

Replacing the Steering Lock and Ignition Tumbler

Buying a car without a key presents a challenge. You can lock it, but you can't unlock it. You can not start it. In this case, the immobilizer/central locking unit module under the driver's seat, was corroded so badly that even if the car had a key, it would not have functioned. I bought a matching set of 3 keys, steering lock, immobilizer box, and DME for about $500. The challenge was, how to get the tumbler and steering lock out.

Edit: First step, remove the instrument cluster (mine was already out). See this article and be very careful with the brittle connectors on the back of the cluster: https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/90-ELEC-996_Cluster/90-ELEC-996_Cluster.htm
Remove the side vent and headlight switch.
Disconnect all the wires from the ignition and steering lock.
Removing the tumbler: Pull out the rubber surrounding the ignition tumbler, then use a chisel to bend and crack the soft cast aluminum that holds the tumbler. Eventually you will be able to pull it out.
Remove the steering wheel: If the steering wheel is locked, you should now be able to push in and turn the ignition with a screwdriver to unlock the steering. Fully loosen the 2 captive screws that hold the airbag and remove it. Disconnect wires. Mark the steering wheel and shaft so that you can reinstall it in the correct position. (24 mm nut and washer.)


Remove the rest of the stuff that's in the way of the steering column. (Small screws and gently prying.)
Remove the bolt that holds the steering lock (10 mm) and the screw for the bracket over the ignition switch.
Push the release button on the steering column where the steering lock connects. It should easily depress if the steering is unlocked. Slide the steering lock out.
Reverse the steps to install the new one.


In my car the release button wouldn't move. Something was stuck. I tried various combinations of screwdrivers, rods, and hammers. Nothing worked and at one point I bumped the windshield with the back of the hammer. As a last resort, I used a drill to drill out the button. When I started drilling, the button popped down and the steering lock started to slide out. The drill must have scared it more than the hammer.
Installation was easy.

[GTA_G20]

Interesting. Thanks man. Mine was built in April and my commission # is 523103. Hmmm

Enough highjacking and back to the resurrection

[78F350]

The point of this post is: in my experience with flooded boat engines is that the quicker you could get one running (usually hours) the better. Detailing can happen later.

I have been feeling that I really need to get this running, then follow up with the rest.
I did put in a little time today and checked the transmission and gas tank for water. All clear.
The video:
https://youtu.be/DmuX9u-529c

Revised plan:
Monday:

• Put it back together with lots of substitute (known good) parts.
• Carefully power everything essential back up, one fuse at a time:
• https://youtu.be/EFu6Q8T_gvo
• Start the engine and idle for 10 minutes.
• Check for problems, pull oil filter cup and examine.
• Put some seats in and bolt an exhaust back on.

Tuesday:

• Drive a mile to the Tag Agency (Local DMV) and show them some receipts for parts and file for a 'rebuilt title'
• Drive home and start taking it all back apart.

[Smallblock454]

Engine sounds good to me. All cylinders seems to be present.

On top of that - fingers crossed.

Regards, Markus

[GTA_G20]

Well done. Could turn out to be a great find

[RedTele58]

It's alive! Yay!

[paulofto]

Very cool!

Should this work out and you get it back in top shape this effort will be worthy of an Excellence and/or Panorama feature.

Good luck!

[10/10ths]

Indeed. This is PCA worthy. Good on ya!

[dghii]

Three cheers!! I know you have lots to do but hearing that motor run is a big incentive to continue to push forward.

A big pat on the back...great job!

[aviorperformance]

I would suspect the radiator issue is due to the forklift drivers at Copart. Mine had same issue but passenger side. Guessing they don't like the pressure from being lifted up.

[78F350]

Originally Posted by aviorperformance

I would suspect the radiator issue is due to the forklift drivers at Copart. Mine had same issue but passenger side. Guessing they don't like the pressure from being lifted up.

Yes, exactly. It also has a slight crease on both side of the bumper.

If I took the time to look up new parts and shop time for the damage caused BY COPART on this car, it would be well into the thousands. Radiators and brackets, bumper, plastic panels, suspension parts, and right rear tire. I have bought three cars from the Houston lot over the years, and every one was damaged by them. My local lot in Fayetteville Arkansas, handles them much better.

[78F350]

I'm starting a week of day shifts now, 7 am to 7 pm, so not planning to do much work on the car. I will post a summary (edit)before the weekend. I had a busy day today, no time.... I drove the car on my lawn yesterday and parked it in the garage. I have a lot of electrical issues to track down (as expected) such as the passenger side window and spoiler. I also had the low oil pressure warning come on. It could be serious, or it could be simple. I suspect that it was from residual water causing foam in the oil, or impeding the filter. Don't worry - I shut the car off immediately when the warning light came on. (edit) Ran the car a little this evening, no low oil pressure, still lots of slop blowing out the exhaust.

[78F350]

It's all going to be easy now, Right?
Tuesday was going to be a big day. The car had run on Monday and I was pretty sure that I could finish putting it back together enough to drive to the Tag Agency (DMV) and file for a rebuilt title. What did I have to do?

• Finish replacing a radiator.
• Put the front bumper cover on.
• Bolt the exhaust back together, or just replace it.
• Flush engine the oil and refill.
• Add coolant.
• Put wheels on.
• Install headlights.
• Put the seats and some interior trim back in.
• Organize paperwork showing the purchase of repair parts.

I had most of the day available, and until 4:30 to get in the door. If all the work went smoothly it would be easy.
I started with the radiator. After removing the original radiator I saw that it looked better than my replacement (note to self: dispose of the replacement). It just had a broken stub, leaving a small hole. I decided to do a JB Weld patch and work on other stuff while it set. A brand new radiator was already ordered.

[78F350]

Exhaust-ing...
Next, replace the muffler. The old muffler was still ½ full (or ½ empty) of oily water. Working in a small puddle under the car, on my back with the sun in my eyes and oily goo on my gloves, I removed the last few nuts and bolts. I tried to pull the muffler out. It would not fit between the bumper and rear of the transmission. Rocked it, rolled it, tipped it, it was not coming out. The rear bumper cover would have to come off.
To remove the rear bumper, the spoiler has to be raised to get access to screws. There is a switch on the fuse panel to raise the spoiler, but it didn't work. I ohmed out the switch and connector. They were good. Next, I looked at the relay in the trunk. I had originally thought that the (rear) trunk electronics didn't get flooded. I was wrong. Opening the relay, I saw rust. I replaced all the relays. Still no spoiler movement. Must be a problem in the mechanism itself. ...Okay, the bumper was not going to come off that day. Instead, I'd bolt the original exhaust back together.
Where did I put those nuts and bolts? I like to put nuts, bolts, and small parts in zip lock bags as I remove them. I label the bags with a marker, so I know where they all came from. The “Exhaust” baggie was nowhere to be found.
Stop. Walk away. Wife makes lunch.

[78F350]

'All day' isn't so long anymore.
Back to the radiator. The JB Weld repair looks good. I used “KwikWeld”, not for a permanent fix, but good enough for a few days. The radiator is pretty easy to install. The hardest part is getting the hoses in place and clamped. It can be hard to reach with the radiator in place, so I just put one bolt part way in while I got everything set. To tighten the lower hose, I put my head underneath and looked up. Perfect position to have the radiator fall off the one loose bolt and smack me in the face. I'd have a black eye, or worse, but fortunately I was wearing safety glasses. With the radiator installed, I topped the car off with distilled water, then noticed a slight leak from the radiator on the other side. No big deal, just a slow drip. Woody (https://www.facebook.com/Woodys-Parts-LLC-866155110110548/posts?) is sending me a good used replacement and a spare.

With coolant, I could finally run the engine enough to warm it up and burn some of the moisture out of the engine. It started easily and ran smooth. Lots of white smoke as it warmed up. About 10 minutes in, the Low Oil Pressure light came on. Not good. These engines die catastrophically without good oil flow. I shut it down immediately and hoped for the best.

Time for an oil change. The oil that came out still had a lot more moisture in it than I expected. It was a milky caramel color rather than translucent maple syrup I had hoped it would be. At least the filter looked good. I refilled with about 9 quarts of cheap synthetic, had a cup of coffee and thought about what to do next.
Video:
https://youtu.be/9zIiqB1FHmc