Sway Bar Upgrade

[ike84]

Originally Posted by 1thenaton1

Eibach makes a front and rear kit (rear is adjustable) for significantly less than the Tarret pieces. I went with those and the Tarret drop links. I found on the "stiff" setting the car was twitchy and too easy to spin and almost impossible to catch on time. On the soft setting with 255 square the setup felt solid on track.

What wheels are you running on your square setup?

Do you think this setup (255s all around, eibach sway bars) makes a noticeable difference in handling over stock? Are the 255s big enough in the rear?

The tarrett drop links - are they necessary to install the gt3 style sway bars? Do they have an advatage over the stock ones?

I'm a twitchy finger away from buying new wheels and tires to put 275s or 285s all around in the quest for the ultimate "turns on rails" setup but was hoping to talk to someone who has done this already to get their feedback!

Thanks!

Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk

[bcrdukes]

I'm running the factory 17" wheels on my Boxster S - 225/45/17 (front) and 255/40/17 (rear.) I'm quite happy with the setup.

You'll need aftermarket adjustable drop links for the GT3 style sway bars. The stock ones won't work because they wont' reach the mounting holes and may potentially snap under excessive load and accelerated wear/tear.

I'm afraid I don't know anyone (personally) who runs a 275 or 285 size tire in the rear but hopefully someone on the forum can chime in.

[BrantyB]

Originally Posted by bcrdukes

I'm afraid I don't know anyone (personally) who runs a 275 or 285 size tire in the rear but hopefully someone on the forum can chime in.

That would be me!

Nankang AR-1 235/40/18 front & 275/35/18 rear; with 24.0mm M030 front bar and 19.6mm M030 rear. And I love it for autocross. But I do prefer a bit of understeer, the bigger rear bar helps balance out the front to my liking.

Rear wheels are 9" O.Z. with 43mm offset. Fitment is fine and without issue, but I tried it with 5mm spacers and it rubbed, so there's not a ton of room.

[ike84]

Originally Posted by BrantyB

That would be me!

Nankang AR-1 235/40/18 front & 275/35/18 rear; with 24.0mm M030 front bar and 19.6mm M030 rear. And I love it for autocross. But I do prefer a bit of understeer, the bigger rear bar helps balance out the front to my liking.

Rear wheels are 9" O.Z. with 43mm offset. Fitment is fine and without issue, but I tried it with 5mm spacers and it rubbed, so there's not a ton of room.

With the spacers installed where did the rear tires rub? Outter wheel well?

Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk

[BrantyB]

Originally Posted by ike84

With the spacers installed where did the rear tires rub? Outter wheel well?

Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk

Yep. Not a lot, but the Nankang's have a wide section width and the extra tire height probably didn't help. Rear camber is 2.5deg on stock suspension.

[986tate]

I put it full stiff because that’s what the other guy did, solid logic, right?
Seriously, I was going to start full soft and inch it up but when I saw what he’d done I figured I could handle it. Babied it for a bit, then flung it around corner pretty good last week without issue so I think it’s alright.

[986tate]

Front isn’t adjustable. It’s the same shape as stock so they couldn’t add holes to change leverage. Uses stock drop links though, so that is nice

[ike84]

[QUOTE=bcrdukes;637191

I don't think I would recommend my previous alignment to anyone. There were a few scary moments on the street, even at traffic speed. [/QUOTE]

Ok I have to ask, what happened? I know that increasing toe and camber will trash tires but I'm ignorant to other types of issues...

Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk

[bcrdukes]

There were a few times where I had to make sudden lane changes to avoid a collision or a quick turn of the steering wheel to avoid very deep potholes and the entire car just jerked and bounced in a very unpredictive manner.

Since going back to a mild street alignment, it hasn't happened.

[986tate]

I just got the Eibachs from someone on here. I have stock dampers and springs and super happy with it the way it is. Increase in ARB had negligible impact on daily use, won’t try it on track until October

[bcrdukes]

Originally Posted by 986tate

I just got the Eibachs from someone on here. I have stock dampers and springs and super happy with it the way it is. Increase in ARB had negligible impact on daily use, won’t try it on track until October

Which hole/setting did you set it at?

[bcrdukes]

And this is for both front and rear sway bars?

[bcrdukes]

I ended up with a Tarett Engineering GT3 front sway bar and Elephant Racing adjustable end links.

I'm planning to tackle the job myself in my garage - anything I should know before getting knee deep in this? There aren't very many articles on how to remove the existing front sway bar and vice versa. Thanks in advance.

[Quadcammer]

Originally Posted by bcrdukes

I ended up with a Tarett Engineering GT3 front sway bar and Elephant Racing adjustable end links.

I'm planning to tackle the job myself in my garage - anything I should know before getting knee deep in this? There aren't very many articles on how to remove the existing front sway bar and vice versa. Thanks in advance.

its very simple. from memory, you need to remove the braces under the gas tank, and potentially loosen the plates into which the thrust arm bolts, but I could be wrong on that. Its a very easy job compared to a 987, no need to lower subframe.

[911monty]

Originally Posted by bcrdukes

I ended up with a Tarett Engineering GT3 front sway bar and Elephant Racing adjustable end links.

I'm planning to tackle the job myself in my garage - anything I should know before getting knee deep in this? There aren't very many articles on how to remove the existing front sway bar and vice versa. Thanks in advance.

The following link has all the info you will need. It is what I used when I replaced mine.

https://www.renntech.org/topic/21534-help-with-sway-bar-instal/

[bcrdukes]

Wow, thanks!

Was it a pain pulling the original sway bar out? I presume one would have to be very patient jimmy'ing it out of there in the first place.

And can this be achieved with the car on jack stands?

[ike84]

It's pretty easy to get the front out, rear is a bit more involved but still easy. I did a writeup on the bushings replacements. The only additional steps would be to remove the drop links.

On a side note, does anyone know if the gt3 sway bars from newer generations (9x7, 9x1) will fit the 986? It seems that some of those pieces are reasonably priced and look like the same shape but obviously that doesn't mean they fit.

Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk

[bcrdukes]

Describe your definition of easy hahaha

Based on my research, only a handful seem to be cross compatible. Anything after 987, it's a no-go. I hope I am wrong.

[ike84]

Originally Posted by bcrdukes

Describe your definition of easy hahaha

Based on my research, only a handful seem to be cross compatible. Anything after 987, it's a no-go. I hope I am wrong.

I didn't break anything when I did it the first time, so I consider that my benchmark for "easy" lol.

Check out my diy thread on the bushing replacements. It took me 20ish min to do (the car was already on jack stands)

Thanks for the heads up about the 987. Even that helps open up the search options.

Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk

[bcrdukes]

Update:

So I now have both front and rear Tarett GT3 sway bars. Fronts will be using the Elephant Racing adjustable sway bar endlinks whereas the rear will use the Tarett adjustable sway bars. Any recommendations on where to start with the mounting holes, both front and back?