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Old 09-24-2018, 06:20 PM   #1
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Refitting Gearbox

Have replaced the clutch but having a hell of a time getting the gearbox back it.

Issues getting it to line up. Have used a clutch alignment tool so the clutch should be right.

Any tips?
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Old 09-24-2018, 06:29 PM   #2
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Have replaced the clutch but having a hell of a time getting the gearbox back it.

Issues getting it to line up. Have used a clutch alignment tool so the clutch should be right.

Any tips?
First and foremost: make sure you have the correct clutch.
I learned the hard way that the 5-spd clutch is different from the 6-spd. Same spline count, different diameter. Barely. So the input shaft wouldn't go in.
Once I had the correct clutch in, it sunk with a resounding "thunk".

I had the trans on a floor jack, balanced, and aimed it with my hand.

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Old 09-24-2018, 06:31 PM   #3
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First and foremost: make sure you have the correct clutch.
I learned the hard way that the 5-spd clutch is different from the 6-spd. Same spline count, different diameter. Barely. So the input shaft wouldn't go in.
Once I had the correct clutch in, it sunk with a resounding "thunk".

I had the trans on a floor jack, balanced, and aimed it with my hand.

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
Yep it's the right clutch. Placed it on the spline before fitting
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Old 09-24-2018, 08:28 PM   #4
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a tip from the master

Buy two metric bolts to match two of the ones that attach the engine to the gearbox (one at each side) grind their hex heads, and cut a slot with the Dremel to facilitate their removal afterwards with a thin flat screwdriver, once you bolt these 'studs' to the engine you will be able to 'hang the gearbox on the studs' and the gearbox will slide right in position.. it is amazing how easier it will be!

I have used this tip at least 3-4 times within the last 10 years and always worked like a charm…

Thank you FCP..!

Last edited by Gilles; 09-24-2018 at 08:30 PM.
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Old 09-25-2018, 03:16 PM   #5
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Buy two metric bolts to match two of the ones that attach the engine to the gearbox (one at each side) grind their hex heads, and cut a slot with the Dremel to facilitate their removal afterwards with a thin flat screwdriver, once you bolt these 'studs' to the engine you will be able to 'hang the gearbox on the studs' and the gearbox will slide right in position.. it is amazing how easier it will be!

I have used this tip at least 3-4 times within the last 10 years and always worked like a charm…

Thank you FCP..!
Nice idea Thanks
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Old 09-25-2018, 06:21 PM   #6
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Sorry, but the credit belongs to JFP (typo)..
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Old 09-27-2018, 06:20 AM   #7
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both times I've done this, I needed to use bolts to draw the gearbox onto the motor, but basically with my hand on the head of the ratchet to ensure I wasn't running into undue resistance.
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Old 09-27-2018, 07:35 AM   #8
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both times I've done this, I needed to use bolts to draw the gearbox onto the motor, but basically with my hand on the head of the ratchet to ensure I wasn't running into undue resistance.
Should not be necessary, and is also rather dangerous. Once lined up, the box should just slide right up to the back of the engine with a pronounced "thump".
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Old 09-27-2018, 05:59 PM   #9
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Should not be necessary, and is also rather dangerous. Once lined up, the box should just slide right up to the back of the engine with a pronounced "thump".
I agree JFP but unfortunately its didn't want to.

I ended up putting another bolt in the top and tightened each one incrementally until it was flush.

Whilst still up on jack stands I started her up (no exhaust) & made sure all gears could be selected. All good.
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Old 09-27-2018, 06:30 PM   #10
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I agree JFP but unfortunately its didn't want to.

I ended up putting another bolt in the top and tightened each one incrementally until it was flush.

Whilst still up on jack stands I started her up (no exhaust) & made sure all gears could be selected. All good.
I did this too. And I was so uneasy with it that I fretted all night long. the next day I removed the g-box again, looked everything over, looked fine, put it back up in and THAT time it seated just as JFP has described.
Like you, I've done dozens of clutches in my life, and had never had that problem before.

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Old 09-28-2018, 07:24 AM   #11
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A few times in the past, when the gearbox simply does not want to move past the last inch, I noticed that rotating the crank slowly helps to synchronize the clutch disk with the transmission shaft..

When you are under there sweating and cursing, you will try everything ...LOL
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Old 10-07-2018, 03:55 PM   #12
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Does the piston on the slave cylinder extend when you press the clutch pedal?

I think you're going to need to pull the transmission back out and see what's going on. Based on this new issue and the problem you had fitting the transmission back on, something isn't right...maybe.

.

Last edited by particlewave; 10-07-2018 at 03:58 PM.
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Old 10-07-2018, 08:07 PM   #13
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Clutch Bleeding

I don't think the slave cylinder is engaging. Can't see it as it's in the gearbox but I couldn't feel any movement when I had my hand on it got my wife to push & pull the pedal.

Have tried bleeding it a few times now. Can see fluid going from back brake caliper through clear tube & into the clutch slave cylinder.

Really don't want to pull the box again & it really seams like a bleeding issue as nothing else has chaged.

All of the fluide drained from the resiviour when I replaced the clutch slave cylinder. Is it possible there is an air pocket somewhere?

Clutching at straws here.
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