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Old 09-24-2018, 06:20 PM   #1
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Refitting Gearbox

Have replaced the clutch but having a hell of a time getting the gearbox back it.

Issues getting it to line up. Have used a clutch alignment tool so the clutch should be right.

Any tips?
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Old 09-24-2018, 06:29 PM   #2
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Have replaced the clutch but having a hell of a time getting the gearbox back it.

Issues getting it to line up. Have used a clutch alignment tool so the clutch should be right.

Any tips?
First and foremost: make sure you have the correct clutch.
I learned the hard way that the 5-spd clutch is different from the 6-spd. Same spline count, different diameter. Barely. So the input shaft wouldn't go in.
Once I had the correct clutch in, it sunk with a resounding "thunk".

I had the trans on a floor jack, balanced, and aimed it with my hand.

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Old 09-24-2018, 06:31 PM   #3
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First and foremost: make sure you have the correct clutch.
I learned the hard way that the 5-spd clutch is different from the 6-spd. Same spline count, different diameter. Barely. So the input shaft wouldn't go in.
Once I had the correct clutch in, it sunk with a resounding "thunk".

I had the trans on a floor jack, balanced, and aimed it with my hand.

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Yep it's the right clutch. Placed it on the spline before fitting
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Old 09-24-2018, 08:28 PM   #4
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a tip from the master

Buy two metric bolts to match two of the ones that attach the engine to the gearbox (one at each side) grind their hex heads, and cut a slot with the Dremel to facilitate their removal afterwards with a thin flat screwdriver, once you bolt these 'studs' to the engine you will be able to 'hang the gearbox on the studs' and the gearbox will slide right in position.. it is amazing how easier it will be!

I have used this tip at least 3-4 times within the last 10 years and always worked like a charm…

Thank you FCP..!

Last edited by Gilles; 09-24-2018 at 08:30 PM.
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Old 09-25-2018, 03:16 PM   #5
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Buy two metric bolts to match two of the ones that attach the engine to the gearbox (one at each side) grind their hex heads, and cut a slot with the Dremel to facilitate their removal afterwards with a thin flat screwdriver, once you bolt these 'studs' to the engine you will be able to 'hang the gearbox on the studs' and the gearbox will slide right in position.. it is amazing how easier it will be!

I have used this tip at least 3-4 times within the last 10 years and always worked like a charm…

Thank you FCP..!
Nice idea Thanks
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Old 09-25-2018, 06:21 PM   #6
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Sorry, but the credit belongs to JFP (typo)..
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Old 09-26-2018, 06:48 PM   #7
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Wtf!

Ok. This is not making sense to me. I have replaced probably 15 clutches in many different cars over the years so I should know what to expect.

The story to date.

Clutch was on it's way out & at 228,000 Kms (+140,000 miles). Have had car since 20,000Kms on the clock.

Removed gearbox, removed clutch, flywheel & RMS.

Replaced RMS, refitted flywheel which was in good condition, replaced clutch & pressure plate using clutch alignment tool. New clutch was identical to one removed & tested on gearbox spline before fitment.

Have attempted to refit the gearbox twice now, second time using a couple of guide bolts as suggested & it still won't slide in. Checked to ensure throw out bearing & arm were fitted correctly & not abstructing.

Have got a bolt om each side of the bell-housing slowly tightening but getting way too much resistance for my liking, I mean it's really hard to tighten.

Have checked the angle & the spacing from box to block is pretty close all the way round.

WTF is happening?
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Last edited by aussieboxy; 09-26-2018 at 07:11 PM.
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Old 09-26-2018, 07:50 PM   #8
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Success

Ok disregard. It's in
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Old 09-27-2018, 04:02 AM   #9
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Ok disregard. It's in
Good job!

What finally made the difference for you?

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Old 09-27-2018, 06:20 AM   #10
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both times I've done this, I needed to use bolts to draw the gearbox onto the motor, but basically with my hand on the head of the ratchet to ensure I wasn't running into undue resistance.
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Old 09-27-2018, 07:35 AM   #11
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both times I've done this, I needed to use bolts to draw the gearbox onto the motor, but basically with my hand on the head of the ratchet to ensure I wasn't running into undue resistance.
Should not be necessary, and is also rather dangerous. Once lined up, the box should just slide right up to the back of the engine with a pronounced "thump".
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Old 09-27-2018, 05:59 PM   #12
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Should not be necessary, and is also rather dangerous. Once lined up, the box should just slide right up to the back of the engine with a pronounced "thump".
I agree JFP but unfortunately its didn't want to.

I ended up putting another bolt in the top and tightened each one incrementally until it was flush.

Whilst still up on jack stands I started her up (no exhaust) & made sure all gears could be selected. All good.
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Old 09-27-2018, 06:30 PM   #13
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I agree JFP but unfortunately its didn't want to.

I ended up putting another bolt in the top and tightened each one incrementally until it was flush.

Whilst still up on jack stands I started her up (no exhaust) & made sure all gears could be selected. All good.
I did this too. And I was so uneasy with it that I fretted all night long. the next day I removed the g-box again, looked everything over, looked fine, put it back up in and THAT time it seated just as JFP has described.
Like you, I've done dozens of clutches in my life, and had never had that problem before.

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Old 09-28-2018, 07:24 AM   #14
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A few times in the past, when the gearbox simply does not want to move past the last inch, I noticed that rotating the crank slowly helps to synchronize the clutch disk with the transmission shaft..

When you are under there sweating and cursing, you will try everything ...LOL
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Old 09-28-2018, 08:10 AM   #15
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A few times in the past, when the gearbox simply does not want to move past the last inch, I noticed that rotating the crank slowly helps to synchronize the clutch disk with the transmission shaft..

When you are under there sweating and cursing, you will try everything ...LOL
Actually, because you are already at the gearbox, rotating one shaft flange while holding the other (in any gear) will accomplish the same thing.
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Old 10-05-2018, 09:42 PM   #16
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Murphy's Law

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Actually, because you are already at the gearbox, rotating one shaft flange while holding the other (in any gear) will accomplish the same thing.
Yeh tried that too.

Ok. Whilst the greabox was in, bolted flush & before refitting anything I started her up, & whilst in neutral I whipped on the handbrake to ensure the was no sticking (ie no effect on revs) & then handbrake off & through the gears each time engaging clutch & checking for wheel speed....all good.

So put everything back on & back on the deck the went to reverse out of the garage & as I pushed the clutch it there was a bit of a clunk & the pedal stayed down & no clutch engagement. F*&%K!!!

Back up she goes, pulled slave cylinder out which is a touch more difficult with all the undercarriage & exhaust back in, & the slave cylinder has come apart.

Ok to the matter at hand. When I pulled the salve cylinder off all the fluid had leaked out. What's the best way to bleed the clutch without a pressure bleeder & do I need to bleed the brakes as well because they use the same brake fluid revsiviour?
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Old 10-07-2018, 03:52 PM   #17
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Clutch Bleeding

So I have replaced the slave cylinder & bled it using the method found on this forum of utilising the rear left brake caliper & running a small clear hose to the clutch slave cylinder & pumping through the brake fluid. Did this 5 times with the clutch depressed & not drepressed but the clutch is still not working.

Apart from contuing to bleed I'm lost for idea's.

Any suggestions would be appreiate
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Old 10-07-2018, 03:55 PM   #18
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Does the piston on the slave cylinder extend when you press the clutch pedal?

I think you're going to need to pull the transmission back out and see what's going on. Based on this new issue and the problem you had fitting the transmission back on, something isn't right...maybe.

.

Last edited by particlewave; 10-07-2018 at 03:58 PM.
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Old 10-07-2018, 08:07 PM   #19
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Clutch Bleeding

I don't think the slave cylinder is engaging. Can't see it as it's in the gearbox but I couldn't feel any movement when I had my hand on it got my wife to push & pull the pedal.

Have tried bleeding it a few times now. Can see fluid going from back brake caliper through clear tube & into the clutch slave cylinder.

Really don't want to pull the box again & it really seams like a bleeding issue as nothing else has chaged.

All of the fluide drained from the resiviour when I replaced the clutch slave cylinder. Is it possible there is an air pocket somewhere?

Clutching at straws here.
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