Immobilizer got moist. no start, random other issues. car stuck!

[hazardc]

I'll get to the point, since this could have likely been prevented by being more alert/active in keeping water OUT :ah: (and drilling a hole!)


We had some pretty heavy rain over the past week, I noticed the other night on the way home that my alarm seemed to trigger for a brief moment while driving... no other effects.


Last night everything seemed fine, but the alarm was randomly triggered a couple times.

I went to start the car.. nothing.. I could still arm and disarm the alarm with the fob.. everything else (EXCEPT THE TOP) worked fine.

SO I CHECKED THE BATTERY, IT IS FINE! (getting that out of the way)


Never have had moisture under the drivers seat, but i parked on a decline in my driveway (usually park on an incline or level).

There was water under the front seat.. great.

I got out as much as i could.. even left a small space heater in the car with the window cracked last night to dry to get out excess moisture (made sure it wasn't going to get too hot)


Today I went out, sun is shining brightly, and it's around noon... I got in the car and put the top down (yay, that works again) but quickly found out no matter what i do, the trunks are now locked (can open back with fob and the alarm sets/doors lock/unlock)

I've left it sit with seats both up, forward as can be, etc

The alarm has randomly went off one time. still no response from the car, still no way to get access to the front trunk that I know of (i can jump this connection, right?)



From what i can deduct, this thing is on the fritz and possibly fried.. I am guessing since the locking system is still working to some extent along with other functions that it is not yet completely dead.

Pull everything out and dry it out? I have zero experience with getting these seats out


Has anyone ever gotten their car working again from a situation like this? I am GUESSING the fuse on the box is still going to be good given that some things are still working.


My question: Is there anything else I can do right now to try to diagnose this other than getting everything dry as the sahara? Please take into consideration the other external factors. I am not sure how all of these other "gremlins" tie in with the immobilizer.. is this all in the same box? All on the same fuse? Any tricks to getting the trunks to unlock so i can get to the battery?

[particlewave]

You need to pull the immobilizer out, open it up and let it dry. Once it's dry, clean with rubbing alcohol and a soft bristle toothbrush to remove any corrosion. Pay extra attention to the connectors that plug into the immobilizer.

There is an emergency release cable for your front trunk located just inside the passenger side (right side) wheel well. You'll need to pull the liner back to get to it and even then it's a pain to see.

[hazardc]

Originally Posted by particlewave

You need to pull the immobilizer out, open it up and let it dry. Once it's dry, clean with rubbing alcohol and a soft bristle toothbrush to remove any corrosion. Pay extra attention to the connectors that plug into the immobilizer.

There is an emergency release cable for your front trunk located just inside the passenger side (right side) wheel well. You'll need to pull the liner back to get to it and even then it's a pain to see.

It's under the headlight kinda, isn't it? i had that headlight out and saw a loop

I don't even know how to pull the seats yet, guessing i need to grab the hex set

thanks for any suggestions.. is there any process to "relearn" the pill in the key or should it just be plug and go if it is going to work?

[hazardc]

or.. can i get it out without pulling the seat?

I'm sorry to ask questions that have already been answered. just having little luck with searches and trying to get this done asap.

[particlewave]

You can probably get it out without removing the seat, but you'll need thin arms and a good sense of feel. The seat comes out with 4 bolts. They are star bolts, but a regular 10mm hex socket works just fine.

Yes, that loop under the headlight tray is the emergency release.

You need to get the battery disconnected first. Pulling the immobilizer or seat without disconnecting the battery will only cause other issues.

[hazardc]

appreciate the help.. will try to report back in a bit :ah:

[hazardc]

[hazardc]

well, let's hope this hasn't caused any permanent damage... I've had luck with electronics (even motherboards) in the past when it comes to this stuff... just hope it is not FUBAR...

What a stupid place to put this thing. Is it common to drill holes underneath it?

[Flavor 987S]

Pack the immobilizer in a uncooked rice, in a sealed container, for a few days.

Some say brown rice works harder than white rice. FYI.

[hazardc]

Er, did not realize we can just attach photos..




I want to blame the mitsubishi chip on the board just out of spite from owning DSMs in the past.

Going to give it the toothbrush + iso treatment and a little dry heat.

hopefully I can at least get the car to start again even if I lose some function. Would be nice to be able to drive it to my garage rather than deal with current situation.

I've already read what a nightmare this is to fix from a financial standpoint... There still isn't a relatively easy bypass for this to get the DME to start the car? In hindsight I should have put the top back up before removing this thing.

[jcslocum]

You have access to a vacuum pump? Zip lock bag, lots of vacuum for a few hours at least might just do the trick. Vacuum lowers the boiling point of the water to get it out of places heat wont.

[hazardc]

Cleaned it with ISO alcohol, let it dry, blew it off with duster, let it dry


hooked it up, nothing works except "click-click" and two beeps when i hit the keyfob (either button)

Now I am unable to use the windows or anything.. car still keys on.. dash, hvac, radio, etc.. all the accessories work except the ones tied to the CLU (no windows, no top, no start, no lock, but keyfob is still trying to work)


Any ideas? The only thing that happened is i lost the ability to do all the **************** I could before taking it apart/out

edit: yeah i can have a vacuum pump on it tomorrowm, jcslocum.

[hazardc]

tried again... got the top to work, windows work, doors lock and unlock via fob and alarm arms via fob... rear trunk opens again too.


No start.
Latches for trunks wont unlock.


Is there some procedure I am missing here to get the key to work? If it's communicating fine with everything else, should i be looking at fuses and other links?


I still can't get to the battery.
When i tested it earlier it was at 12.9v.. I shut the frunk because I didn't think i was going to get locked out!

ugh. :ah:

[jcslocum]

Unlock the frunk with the small cable in the pass side wheel well. But the battery sounds good.

Get with Woody on here know as itsnotanova for a new immobilizer ecu, and key/ignition lock.

[hazardc]

I noticed some corrosion on the red wire on the smaller plug again.




I couldn't find the stupid wire, and obviously can't take the wheel off.

I tried that "screwdriver between the trunk release trick" and I must not be getting it. Does anyone have a picture of themselves actually DOING that? I don't see any "white thing" to move.

with everything working, I'm not yet convinced this is a loss... and if it is, it's going into the garage for the foreseeable future.

Good thing I start on 18 credit hours on Monday :ah:

Still in disbelief that water got in there, it's always been dry.... I've heeded the warnings.. I'm going to throw it in the vac with some heat and try to make sure the plugs are all nice and dry

I still need to get this f'n trunk open. This is absolute stupidity to have a car where you can't even get to the tow-kit if the computer-that-lays-in-a-bowl-with-no-drain-in-a-convertible gets wet.


Is there any reason to really think this thing is dead if it's operating all the other stuff correctly?

[78F350]

A few notes that may or may not help:
My second Boxster was a flood salvaged '01 that had sat with water-saturated carpet for a few months. The immobilizer/Central Locking Unit box under the seat had components that were corroded beyond repair. Some of the pins on the wire harness connector were also corroded.
-For the wiring, I got a new connector from Woody (User name itsnotanova) and spliced it on.
-With the box being unrepairable, I bought a used set off eBay (key fob, immobilizer box, and DME/ECU) for about $500.


-There is also a shop called ECUDoctors.com that repairs them and sells waterproof boxes. Porsche 996 & Boxster ECU Test and Repair, Immobilizer Removal, and Performance Tuning Upgrades - Specialized ECU Repair

-Here's a link to how I got the frunk open:
http://986forum.com/forums/506180-post3.html

-The padding under the carpet is like a sponge and it Will Not Dry on it's own. The moisture remaining there can corrode your CLU box again. The carpet has to be removed, or lifted while air is circulated underneath.
http://986forum.com/forums/506288-post11.html

[hazardc]

UPDATE:

I got the frunk open.

At this point I've cleaned the unit out, there was some corrosion, but there wasn't anything too out of the ordinary. The thing passed the "smell test"




EVERYTHING works EXCEPT *NO START* and *FRUNK AND TRUNK ALWAYS LOCKED*




Fob works fine, i can pop the rear still, i can put the top up and down, I reset the memory on the windows after disconnecting and fully charging the battery.

I put the clu back in with the battery disconnected. It's OBVIOUSLY getting power and all functions work except that the car is obviously immobilized and I can't figure out *why* I can lock and unlock the doors just fine with key or keyless


Is there anyone who knows what fuses i should be looking at or where I should be checking for voltage?

Or ANY suggestions on this one? It seems intuitive that this unit is not dead, but the car has been immobilized. Can this be reset with the key?


Looking for

1) any possible procedures to deactivate the immobilizer with the key or whatever


2) fuses that should be checked

3) places voltages should be checked.




THANK YOU in advance.


I do not have a durametric.

[hazardc]

I have some corrosion on pin #4.. I know this is "immobilizer control" but where does it trace to?

[78F350]

Originally Posted by hazardc

I have some corrosion on pin #4.. I know this is "immobilizer control" but where does it trace to?

Pin A4 connects to A6 on the "signal transformer anti-drive-off lock". I think that's a small module that bolts on to the steering column.

[Steve Tinker]

hazardc - did you check the fuse in the immobiliser ??