Clutch slave update. I am so screwed.

[san rensho]

So a new development after my previous post. http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/58360-clutch-slave-replacement-question-bit-rant.html Put in the new clutch slave last night, smiling smugly to my self that removing and putting in new slave took only about an hour, including bleeding. The peripherals, jacking the car up, getting the skid plate, diagnals off etc was a much bigger pain.

After the change, before I start the car, the pedal is hard, as smooth as silk, and returns all the way up but I notice it doesn't quite go all the way to the floor. So I fire it up and try to put it in gear, any gear, no go. When I start it in gear with the pedal down, it starts and the car moves as soon as the motor catches. I push on the pedal hard a couple of times to see if I can get the pedal to go to the floor and then nothing, no pressure, the pedal is all the way to the floor, no clutch and a puddle of hydraulic fluid.

The clutch is behaving exactly like the clutch in this post. http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/51863-clutch-not-fully-disengaging-why.html

So I'm resigned to fact that I'm going to have to replace the clutch and associated parts which means spending a couple of days under the car, in Miami Florida, during the hottest most humid, mosquito infested time of the year, during the rainy season, where I get a flash flood coursing through the car port every time it rains, with me working on the car on my back. Oh to have a lift!

But I digress. Now to a couple of questions. Is it absotively, posolutely the pivot arm or a pressure plate failure? Could it be the spring assist on the clutch pedal mechanism under the dash? I had replaced the stiff spring with a very soft one, but there doesn't appear to be any roughness or binding and when the slave had pressure, the pedal went all the way to the up stop position.

Second. I'm hoping that with a 6/99 build, that i have a dual row IMSB. If thats the case, I intend to just leave it in there after removing the bearing seal. Can I check the bearing for smoothnes and play manually by just removing the center nut at the IMSB flange or do I have to remove the flange to examine it, and If I can examine the bearing with the flange intact, I don't need to lock the cams or set the motor at TDC, right?