Is it possible to get 330 HP from a 2003 3.2L Engine?

[Jake Raby]

With disassembling, or without?

With disassembly I can turn that engine into a 4 liter and get over 400HP from it. Its routine around here.

[KRAM36]

Originally Posted by Jake Raby

With disassembling, or without?

With disassembly I can turn that engine into a 4 liter and get over 400HP from it. Its routine around here.

You're making my mouth water. Can a Tiptronic trans handle that much power?

[Jake Raby]

Originally Posted by KRAM36

You're making my mouth water. Can a Tiptronic trans handle that much power?

Yes. The tip will handle more power than a manual.

[KRAM36]

Originally Posted by Jake Raby

Yes. The tip will handle more power than a manual.

That's nice to know, thanks.

After the intake upgrade, I'm not sure if I would want 400HP lol. The car is getting down the road is a massive hurry right now and I still have the headers, cat delete pipes and Borla exhaust to do. Also thinking of opening up the intake pipe some more along with a tune.

I was looking at 330HP to put the car on par with the new 2015 Mustang GT hp to weight ratio. I think my car would actually need 343HP to achieve that.

EDIT: Side note: I am looking at some light weight wheels right now and the exhaust change should lighten the car up a bit.


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[Bigsmoothlee]

Originally Posted by Jake Raby

With disassembling, or without?

With disassembly I can turn that engine into a 4 liter and get over 400HP from it. Its routine around here.

You left out taking a loan out against your home

[silver-S]

625hp from 2.6l. There is a lot of horsepower hiding under the sofa. You just have to coax it out of there.

Legends: the Porsche 962 and 918 face off at Indy

[The Radium King]

silicone elbow 3" 90 reducer 3.25" | eBay

[KRAM36]

I'm not sure how you plan on doing the pipping. If it was me, I would cut the end towards the TB. Get the plastic welder, wrap the wire that comes with it and melt it into the pipping, then use the plastic strips that are included and melt that to the area with the wire. This will strengthen up the pipping so you can get a good seal on it.

TRK may have a better idea. I have a Tiptronic trans so my pipping is different then the manual trans.

[JAAY]

You all know this has been covered before right? http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/32074-987-v-986-air-box-7.html I have done this mod as well as a few others. The IPD helps most when our variocam kicks in. If you are planning on doing all these mods you have to get your car to a tuner or have the ability to tune it yourself in someway. When you are done and all tuned up, you will not believe the transformation in your car. I don't recommend a K&N filter. Stay stock. I was advised to do this myself by one of the the best builders/racers around for good reasons. Stock is best.

[KRAM36]

Originally Posted by JAAY

You all know this has been covered before right? http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/32074-987-v-986-air-box-7.html I have done this mod as well as a few others. The IPD helps most when our variocam kicks in. If you are planning on doing all these mods you have to get your car to a tuner or have the ability to tune it yourself in someway. When you are done and all tuned up, you will not believe the transformation in your car. I don't recommend a K&N filter. Stay stock. I was advised to do this myself by one of the the best builders/racers around for good reasons. Stock is best.

You don't have to get a tune done when using the stock MAF housing. K&N filters have better air flow then a stock air filter, you just need to rid the filter of excess oil before installing it.

I do plan a tune, but that will be done after my exhaust upgrades and I'll be changing over to the 987 MAF housing and larger pipping then.

[JAAY]

KRAM, yes the K&N will flow better for a little while. If you change the location of the MAF you will most likely need a tune.

[KRAM36]

Originally Posted by JAAY

KRAM, yes the K&N will flow better for a little while. If you change the location of the MAF you will most likely need a tune.

K&N will flow better then 5 new stock air filters before it needs a cleaning. It's the diameter of the MAF housing that matters, not location, although some say closer to the TB the better. The car runs soooo good right now I wouldn't think of doing a tune.

[KRAM36]

I just check my AFR's using this method with fully warm engine.

Proper AFR calibration is critical to performance and durability of the engine and it's components. The AFR defines the ratio of the amount of air consumed by the engine compared to the amount of fuel. The turbochargers increase the density of the air resulting in a denser mixture. The denser mixture raises the peak cylinder pressure, therefore increasing the probability of detonation. As the AFR is leaned out, the temperature of the burning gases increases, which also increases the probability of knock.

As a protective mechanism, the ECU is designed to make the AFR richer, reduce boost, and/or retard ignition timing to prevent catastrophic detonation, but also diminishing performance. These parameters need to be optimized to give the best performance with a margin of safety for the engine.

Rich versus lean, why lean makes more power but is more dangeros
A stoichiometric AFR has the correct amount of air and fuel to produce a chemically complete combustion event. For gasoline engines, the ratio is 14.7:1, which means 14.7 parts of air to one part of fuel. This ratio is dependent on fuel type-- for alcohol it is 6.4:1 and 14.5:1 for diesel.

Durametric reports lambda - a percentage of AFR based on the stoichiometric ratio. To report the proper AFR from Durametric, multiply the pre catalytic actual lambda by 14.7. For example, a lambda of 0.78 gives a AFR of 11.47:1 (0.78 * 14.7 = 11.47.)





In general, a lower AFR number contains less air than the stoichiometric AFR - hence the mixture is richer. A higher AFR number contains more air and therefore it is a leaner mixture.

For Example:
15.0:1 = Lean
14.7:1 = Stoichiometric
13.0:1 = Rich

A lean AFR results in higher temperatures when combustion occurs

Bank 1 Idle 0.98 = 14.406 AFR @ 4k RPM 1.01 = 14.847 AFR

Bank 2 Idle 0.96 = 14.259 AFR @ 4k RPM 1.02 = 14.994 AFR

Not bad, a tune would help or the computer needs more miles put into it, less then 100 miles since the upgrade, but like I said, the tune will be done after my exhaust upgrades and I'll be changing over to the 987 MAF housing and larger pipping.

[JAAY]

Those are also closed loop figures. How do you plan on checking open?

[KRAM36]

Originally Posted by JAAY

Those are also closed loop figures. How do you plan on checking open?

EDIT: Please explain to me the best way to get my AFR's for closed and open loop. I thought closed loop was most important?


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[KRAM36]

Another thing I'm thinking about changing is where the venturi tube for my Tiptronic trans connects into the pipping. Right now it connects into the pipping after the MAF sensor. So it's pulling air out of the system that the MAF sensor did not account for.



So I'm thinking about moving that connection to the air box before the MAF sensor. What do you think about that?

Move it to here? This would also allow me to use larger pipping and not worry about putting that connection into it.

[JAAY]

logging it of course is best. You want the open loop numbers, that is when all the sensors are doing their thing and you are at WOT wide open throttle. The closed loop stuff will fluctuate but always kinda read like what you have gotten already. Closed loop is just cruising or idling. You want your open loop numbers to be around 13:1 for best performance. (disclaimer) I was advised this by somebody but please have your car tuned by a professional for safety of the motor and performance. Pedro can probably help or FVD. Giac if you can get them to get you on their dyno. I use a wideband 02 sensor.

[KRAM36]

Originally Posted by JAAY

logging it of course is best. You want the open loop numbers, that is when all the sensors are doing their thing and you are at WOT wide open throttle. The closed loop stuff will fluctuate but always kinda read like what you have gotten already. Closed loop is just cruising or idling. You want your open loop numbers to be around 13:1 for best performance. (disclaimer) I was advised this by somebody but please have your car tuned by a professional for safety of the motor and performance. Pedro can probably help or FVD. Giac if you can get them to get you on their dyno. I use a wideband 02 sensor.

Ok, so I'll get my daughter to ride with me, lay the hammer down and have her log the info. She got to ride in it for the first time this morning. I have the speed gong set at 70, so I know to slow down to keep the spoiler from deploying. She heard the ding at said " we hit 70 already?" lol.

[Qmulus]

FWIW, here is a good study of air filters. I like tests with real data and there is a lot there. Bottom line, there is no free lunch. Interesting read if nothing else...

[KRAM36]

Originally Posted by Qmulus

FWIW, here is a good study of air filters. I like tests with real data and there is a lot there. Bottom line, there is no free lunch. Interesting read if nothing else...

Check out this video. This car also has a flat 6 in it and got a 5.7+ whp with just the K&N filter added. Also the longer the K&N filter is in the car, the better it traps dirt.