06-09-2014, 12:55 PM
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#21
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Canada
Posts: 3,128
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06-09-2014, 01:05 PM
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#22
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Socal
Posts: 560
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I can post pics of 997.2 gt3 arch liners if you want ?
I have then sat on top of my beetle in the garage waiting to be fitted
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06-09-2014, 02:52 PM
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#23
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Rennzenn
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Virginia
Posts: 1,369
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The center radiator was sitting wrong and needed to be moved. IIRC, I flipped the bracket over to get the opposite angle, then move it towards the front of the car about 1".
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Rennzenn
Jfro@rennzenn.com
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06-09-2014, 02:58 PM
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#24
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Canada
Posts: 3,128
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did it interfere with the radiator ducts on either side?
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06-09-2014, 03:33 PM
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#25
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Canada
Posts: 3,128
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the gt3 bit looks the best - designed to block the downward flow (and match the bottom profile of our bumper covers) and vent towards the brakes. combined with the 997 duct piece from the renntrack post should work well. the gt3 liner is two piece, however, so either trim your current one and hope there are suitable attachement points, or get the rear portion of the gt3 wheel well liner as well ...
http://www.autoteile-ab-lager.de/bilder/produkte/gross/Porsche-911-996-99650422391-8162.jpg
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06-10-2014, 02:03 AM
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#26
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Rennzenn
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Virginia
Posts: 1,369
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Radium King
did it interfere with the radiator ducts on either side?
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No, not at all. I did need to splice in extensions on the radiator hoses, though.
__________________
Rennzenn
Jfro@rennzenn.com
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06-10-2014, 06:45 AM
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#27
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Canada
Posts: 3,128
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did a bit more checking. the gt3 uses the same radiator duct and bracket as the 986, so assume the gt3 radiator is the same orientation as the 986. assuming the body attachment points are the same, you should be able to just swap in the two-piece gt3 fender liner for the one-piece boxster unit. this will give you an oem blocking plate for the bottom of the bumper, and oem venting into the wheel well to aid in brake cooling. I think the gt3 unit allows a bit more room in the wheel well as well, should you want to run wider tires. these little babies should seal the deal:
997.575.231.91 and 997.575.232.91 brake ducts
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06-10-2014, 06:53 AM
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#28
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Canada
Posts: 3,128
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jfro - did you have to trim the duct that joins the rad to the front bumper cover given you moved the rad forward?
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06-10-2014, 10:25 AM
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#29
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Rennzenn
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Virginia
Posts: 1,369
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I got rid of that all together. I tried to make it work, but it was just a non-fitting mess.
A new duct could be fabricated to force air to only go through the center radiator (not around it), but it already works well, so I've spent my time on other things.
__________________
Rennzenn
Jfro@rennzenn.com
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06-10-2014, 10:53 AM
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#30
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Canada
Posts: 3,128
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probably by the time you've moved the rad forward there's not much of a gap between the rad and the front bumper cover regardless.
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06-10-2014, 11:02 AM
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#31
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Alta Loma, CA
Posts: 1,334
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Quote:
I have seen Boxster race cars with portions of the front of the wheel liner cut out (with wire mesh installed to block debris) to allow additional air flow to the brakes to improve cooling. I believe that these were custom fab'd.
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I'm willing to bet (over a few beers) that the **sell** is "brake ducts" to improve cooling (because brake ducting is *open* in the class) This is nothing more than helping to remove LIFT at the nose  Why would I add 200deg. hot air to the brakes?
For the GT3 radiator to vent properly up and out of the top of the bumper, a stove pipe has to be built behind it. ALL air to radiators has to be sealed to the front bumper. Air will take the path of least resistance (go around the radiators if the guides are not in place and sealed to the front bumper.
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02-07-2017, 08:00 AM
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#32
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Motorist & Coffee Drinker
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 3,880
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Updates, discussion, More Pics?
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Radium King
... stop those frigging radiators from venting air down and under the car. all that kills lift.
next step is to add downforce - wings, front canards, vent the radiators upwards. vent the wheel wells (wheel wells accumulate air with a high pressure point at the top of the wheel just forward of the wheel centre line - vent the wheel wells up and you convert lift to downforce). beware downforce - the faster you go the better it works - chicken out and slow down and you lose downforce which means you lose traction ...
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TRK's comments reminded me of this thread. worth a bump. Brad's comment about adding 200 deg air to the brakes is something I had been wondering about - best to duct it to the middle and out the top of the bumper? I'm not afraid to cut a vent in the fender of my 2000 S, but would really want to have a valid model before I'd do it.
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I am not an attorney, mechanic, or member of the clergy. Following any advice given in my posts is done at your own peril.
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02-07-2017, 08:31 AM
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#33
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Canada
Posts: 3,128
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i've purchased the two gt2 parts from ************************* (hah, joke from another thread - auto atlanta) - the duct that mounts behind the third rad and vents up, and the duct that mounts between the rad and the bumper cover. for whatever reason, auto atlanta was significantly cheaper on these parts than anywhere else. otherwise, the rad has to be tilted and extended forward - my intent is to use the same bracket with some threaded rod to accomplish this. the two rad hoses will have to be extended - some hose, hose clamps, couplers (or you can go oem). there may be some interference with the front bumper bar - you could machine it or use small spacers to push it forward (there is an oem part for this also). final thing is to open up the top of the bumper. 997 'smile' doesn't work well here as doesn't follow hoodline. better jfros approach which is similar to 996 gt3 rs openings.
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02-07-2017, 09:28 AM
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#34
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: FL
Posts: 4,144
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I may do this mod, and if so I may try to use the 997 upper brake cooling deflectors:
99757523191
99757523291
And fasteners: 99950778540
Significantly cheaper than the 996/GT3 versions or the fiberglass replicas sold by tunersmotorsports
Unsure how they would fit, and what tweaks/fabrication would be required, but if I do the flow through fender liners I am going to do this with it.
I read that 200 degree radiator air feels like AC to a 600-800+ degree rotor/caliper.
TRK can you share your part numbers for your part?
Edit: I see you shared those brake ducts like 2 years ago... Are those the two parts or are you talking about something else that helps the center radiator?
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02-07-2017, 09:55 AM
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#35
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Canada
Posts: 3,128
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i was talking this:
99657514130
and this:
99657532530
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02-07-2017, 06:37 PM
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#37
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Canada
Posts: 3,128
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probably better to try and fit the vented 996 gt3.2 liners.
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