Best Induction System for 'S'

[spgribben007]

xclusivecar - Thanks for the de-snorkel site but "if" for some reason I want to install it back, it is difficult?

A strut brace question... I own a 2001 and though I enjoy like anyone else to take corners pretty hard at times I haven't taken my car to a track. Will I notice a big difference in everyday handling or is this mod mainly for the track? I notice that there are aluminum bars and carbon fiber bars on ebay. Which is a better bar to have strength/weight?

[blinkwatt]

Originally Posted by xclusivecar

Forget the K&N! Why waste money on something that *may* harm your MAF?!?! The paper filter is all this car will ever need. To desnorkel, here is what I did: http://www.xclusivecar.com/Porsche_Boxster_S_DeSnorkel_Mod.htm

I second that,I just had to buy a new MAF due to a K & N air filter. The previous owner didn't change it out,or re-oil as often he should have(every 4000 miles) and I paid the price,$233 for MAF + $22 for Mahle Paper Filter. None-the-less K & N air filters are in all the other cars in my house with no problems at all. I dont think the sensors sensitivity works with aftermarket filters all that well,unless you change them often,very often.

[BoxsterSbob]

The guy's that post on this forum know their stuff! I'd listen to them on this issue, you'll save time and money.


Based on the collective wisdom posted here I plan on the following upgrades:

BMC air element
Borla cat-back (for sound)
Strut braces front and rear (once I can figure-out who's selling the best ones....help!)


bob

[KRZTACO]

Sounds like the fellow forum members guided you in the right direction.

The largest difference I have notice is when I had my Voightland Coilovers installed with an alignment and Corner balance...HUGE difference. It's like I'm driving on rails, Plus my car is on 19x 8.5 F and 19x10 R. It's a handling machine!!!!!

I also did the following mods to my car:

1) De-snorkel (gives a nice intake sound)
2) exhaust (for sound)


Pics are in this thread:
http://986forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5076

KRZ

[MNBoxster]

Originally Posted by spgribben007

xclusivecar - Thanks for the de-snorkel site but "if" for some reason I want to install it back, it is difficult?

A strut brace question... I own a 2001 and though I enjoy like anyone else to take corners pretty hard at times I haven't taken my car to a track. Will I notice a big difference in everyday handling or is this mod mainly for the track? I notice that there are aluminum bars and carbon fiber bars on ebay. Which is a better bar to have strength/weight?

Hi,

You'll notice a big difference in day-to-day by adding the Strut Bars. In addition to the Car feeling much more Solid, you'll lose most (if not all) of the annoying creaks and rattles inherent in practically every convertible. You will also be able to corner better/faster.

For this application, I don't believe Alloy vs CF makes any difference. There are several out there and prices have dropped. Make sure to get a good one (mine are from Racing Dynamics) as they're better machined/aligned and this makes installation a little easier, not that it's hard - 10 min. @. Hope this helps...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

[xclusivecar]

Do as MNBoxster has done with the strut braces and you'll be ready to go. He knows his stuff and tells it as it is.

As far as putting the snorkel back in...I haven't tried to do this...but imagine you would have to push pretty hard to get it to pop back in. When you go to remove your snorkel you will realize how tough it is to remove. Remember to wear gloves and pull...HARD!

BTW-I have driven without the snorkel for 2 winters now as my daily driver and wouldn't think of putting it back in. It really doesn't make much noise until you get on it...about 4000 rpm and up. THEN, it sounds GREEEEEEEAAAAAAATTTT!

[JP-s-in st. louis]

same topic on 6speed check it out.

http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42756

[spgribben007]

After reading MNBoxster's reply I'm deffinitely interested in doing this mod. There are several places I've noticed that sells front strut braces and rear strut braces both never that I've seen as a set (front and back). Do I concentrate in getting the front strut brace or the rear or should I get both? I've learned soooo much on this site. Thanks, Steve

[Brucelee]

Personally, I would do them both.

Let us know what you think!

[MNBoxster]

Originally Posted by spgribben007

After reading MNBoxster's reply I'm deffinitely interested in doing this mod. There are several places I've noticed that sells front strut braces and rear strut braces both never that I've seen as a set (front and back). Do I concentrate in getting the front strut brace or the rear or should I get both? I've learned soooo much on this site. Thanks, Steve

Hi,

As Bruce says, do them both. Each helps tremendously, but the combined effect is greater than the Sum.

Installation is easy. Car on Level Ground.

Front: Remove Inspection Covers and Battery Cover. Loosen Battery Hold-down Mount (10mm) and move to front edge of Battery Tray to allow the CrossBrace to fit behind it (I also prefer to disconnect the Battery to eliminate the possibility of accidentally shorting the Terminals if the Brace or tool contacts them - not truly necessary, but a precaution). Align Strut Tower Brace Mounts with 2 of the 3 (13mm) Nuts coming out of the Strut Tower. Loosen the appropriate Nuts (leave the 3rd one tight to avoid loosing Camber Setting). Extend CrossBrace so that it will allow the Mount Holes to align with the top of the 2 Studs on each side. Place Mounts onto Studs and replace Nuts, tightening to 26 ft. lbs. (No more of the Studs can snap). Extend CrossBrace fully and tighten LockNuts (17mm?) Tighten down Battery and replace Inspection Covers and Battery Cover.

Rear: Put Top in Service Position. Pull back Foam Insulation covering the Strut Towers. Extend CrossBrace to allow Mounts to align with Studs. Remove the appropriate 2 Nuts (13mm) from each side and place Mounts over Studs. Replace Nuts and tighten to 26 ft. lbs. Extend CrossBrace so that Heim Joints can slip over Mounting Studs on the Brace Mounts (this can be a little tight), taking care not to pinch Convertible Top Cables. Tighten NyLock Nuts onto Strut Brace Mounts and tighten CrossBar Lock Nuts. Replace Top.

It should take you no longer than 20 min. per Brace, probably less. Good Luck...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

[2000SoCalBoxsterS]

I Agree. The Boxster is made for the curves not the quarter mile. Not much you can do with these cars to increase HP. Even for my 3.2L 250 HP S. You can spend $3,800 for the complete Fabspeed exhaust system plus they want another $1,494 for their performance flash program and claim a 35 HP gain. I can't really use all the HP I have now without losing my license so spending $5,200 bucks for 35 more horse is probably unnecessary. I will do the secondaryCat bypasspipes and GHL exhaust for slight HP pickup but mostly for sound, the strut tower braces and lower Ernie bar for the lower rear suspension, and lighten up the car with some Recaro racing sport seats and lighter alloy wheels and that will do it for me.

For those who missed it I give you the "Ernie bar"

http://986forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10817&page=2&pp=20

[David N.]

$5200 huh? For less you can get a fantastic one-liter, and it'll smoke anything that can't run a sub-11 (and finding parking on it rocks!). AND it can turn, too!

-David