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Originally Posted by spgribben007
After reading MNBoxster's reply I'm deffinitely interested in doing this mod. There are several places I've noticed that sells front strut braces and rear strut braces both never that I've seen as a set (front and back). Do I concentrate in getting the front strut brace or the rear or should I get both? I've learned soooo much on this site. Thanks, Steve
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Hi,
As Bruce says, do them both. Each helps tremendously, but the combined effect is greater than the Sum.
Installation is easy. Car on Level Ground.
Front: Remove Inspection Covers and Battery Cover. Loosen Battery Hold-down Mount (10mm) and move to front edge of Battery Tray to allow the CrossBrace to fit behind it (I also prefer to disconnect the Battery to eliminate the possibility of accidentally shorting the Terminals if the Brace or tool contacts them - not truly necessary, but a precaution). Align Strut Tower Brace Mounts with 2 of the 3 (13mm) Nuts coming out of the Strut Tower. Loosen the appropriate Nuts (leave the 3rd one tight to avoid loosing Camber Setting). Extend CrossBrace so that it will allow the Mount Holes to align with the top of the 2 Studs on each side. Place Mounts onto Studs and replace Nuts, tightening to 26 ft. lbs. (No more of the Studs can snap). Extend CrossBrace fully and tighten LockNuts (17mm?) Tighten down Battery and replace Inspection Covers and Battery Cover.
Rear: Put Top in
Service Position. Pull back Foam Insulation covering the Strut Towers. Extend CrossBrace to allow Mounts to align with Studs. Remove the appropriate 2 Nuts (13mm) from each side and place Mounts over Studs. Replace Nuts and tighten to 26 ft. lbs. Extend CrossBrace so that Heim Joints can slip over Mounting Studs on the Brace Mounts (this can be a little tight), taking care not to pinch Convertible Top Cables. Tighten NyLock Nuts onto Strut Brace Mounts and tighten CrossBar Lock Nuts. Replace Top.
It should take you no longer than 20 min. per Brace, probably less. Good Luck...
Happy Motoring!... Jim'99