if its not one thing its another - top problem now

[schoir]

Originally Posted by ferrytrip1

...
Question: Does the motor just keep turning until the limit switches tell it to stop?

Yes. In your '02 Boxster, there are two microswitches INSIDE the driver's (left) side transmission and a 360 degree gear.

If so If I remove the cables will this be a good indication that the motor is OK - It may have a flatspot or other damage.

After you remove the drive cables from the sides of the electric motor, you should be able to see the small, square output flanges spinning when you apply 12 volts to the electric motor (whether by means of the switch or a 12 volt battery). These electric motors do sometimes get "dead spots", but that is not a very common occurrence.

Appreciate thoughts, pointers, advice what to do next to investigate the cause. Right now the top is closed but the light is on.

Where will I find photos to aid in removing the arms / rods if I need to remove the top transmissions?

Take a look at this link for photos and instructions on how to remove the transmissions: installinga'03-'04glasstopandframeona'97 - mikefocke2
Specifically look at the Part II PDF at pages 18 to 22. (Note that the transmissions shown in that DIY are the "A Version" transmissions, and yours are the "B Version" transmissions but that the removal/installation process is identical, except that in yours, you have to first disconnect the plug that goes into the front of the driver's side transmission--- the transmission in which the two limit microswitches are contained).



If I remove the hex bolt from the pushh rod on each side will the the top should move by itself - is this manual mode?

No, that's a "messy" way to do it. For manual mode, disconnect the plastic ball cups (one red and one white on your particular Boxster) or unbolt the 10mm bolt with fat washer to separate the two parts of the front pushrods. Either one will allow the convertible top canvas and its frame to move manually. For the clamshell to move manually, you have to disconnect the black "hydraulic" pushrods.


Is the "boomerang2 control lever threaded - I assume so.

No, there is a keyway behind the V-lever that fits into the female slot in the center of the transmission.

The driver side rod has has a white cap, passenger a red cap.

The white plastic ball cups are the updated, more durable, version of the red plastic ball cups.

Removeing hte hex bolt will clarify is the top has a resriction and can take the load of the transmission so I might be able to cycle it that way and also identify if both sides are bing driven by the motor - is this right?

Yes. Once you disconnect the front pushrods (by using one of the two methods above), and the rear black pushrods, you can then see if the V-levers rotate freely while they are still attached to the transmissions. Be careful not to allow the dangling pushrods (once they are disconnected) to dig into the foam drain trays.

Thanks, Simon

Regards, Maurice.

[ferrytrip1]

Thanks Maurice, I had a quick look this morning before going to work. I disconnected the cables at the motor - ran it with the switch - it ran fast and smooth both ways. So that seems ok.

I pulled the inner drive cables - both are same length, both had the square drive ends so I assume they are both OK.

The top will now open and close with some hand assistance and there is still a clunking on the passenger side. The open light stays on when it is either open or closed. When closed it sounds like it is trying to finish the procedure but not quite getting there.

Tonight I will look to pull the rods and see how the top works without the xmsn to see if if it is smooth operation.

I have found a number of xmsn on e-bay - what part number should I look for and anything I should ask the seller?

Having read the posts you pointed me to I looked at the motor - is the lever that is now ziptied to he bracket off an earlier model? Mine does not seem to have it.

Thanks

Simon

Thanks

Simon

[schoir]

Originally Posted by ferrytrip1

Thanks Maurice, I had a quick look this morning before going to work. I disconnected the cables at the motor - ran it with the switch - it ran fast and smooth both ways. So that seems ok.

I pulled the inner drive cables - both are same length, both had the square drive ends so I assume they are both OK.

The top will now open and close with some hand assistance and there is still a clunking on the passenger side. The open light stays on when it is either open or closed. When closed it sounds like it is trying to finish the procedure but not quite getting there.

Tonight I will look to pull the rods and see how the top works without the xmsn to see if if it is smooth operation.

I have found a number of xmsn on e-bay - what part number should I look for and anything I should ask the seller?

Having read the posts you pointed me to I looked at the motor - is the lever that is now ziptied to he bracket off an earlier model? Mine does not seem to have it.

Thanks

Simon

Thanks

Simon

The lever that is ziptied to the bracket is the "black lever microswitch" which was used on the "A-Version" systems. It would get pressed down by the clamshell and that would send a signal to turn off the electric motor and the idiot light after a pre-determined "after-running time" (as Porsche put it). That black lever microswitch is one of the two microswitches that was moved to the inside of the driver's side transmission. It was used on the '97 to '99 Boxsters. Your Boxster may still have the cut-out in the black plastic cover that goes over the electric motor (even though it no longer has the black lever microswitch).

If you are getting used transmissions, just make sure that you are getting the "B-Version" transmissions and that they were working when removed. The part numbers are 986 561 179 03 for the left side and 986 561 180 03 for the right
side.

Regards, Maurice.