03-14-2006, 03:14 PM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MNBoxster
...But, for a Seasonal Car, the Oil should be changed just prior to hibernating the Car for the season. This is because the moisture will evaporate out of the Oil and condense on the Engine Internals causing corrosion and pitting. You should change the Oil and run the Car less than 15 min. before shutting it down. I put no more than 4k mi. on all my Fun Cars during the driving season here in Minnesota before changing it at the end of the season. It kills me to dump all that premium Synthetic Oil, but that's the price of admission...
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Your are converting me. So for your seasonal toy, it's change the oil at the end of the season even though it has less than, say, 8,500 on the clock. Ok. How about when you bring the car out in the following year? Drive off and enjoy until the end of the season or 8,500-10,000, which ever comes first?
Thanks.
p.s Please list your home address so I can send you a blank check. I feel I should be paying for this education.
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Zib
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03-14-2006, 04:08 PM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 8,083
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If it were me, I would NOT swap the oil out come Spring, UNLESS, the car had many periods of running without completely warming up over the winter time. Then I would be concerned about the oil.
Then again, if you knew you were going to do that, you would fill with cheap dino oil for the winter and then back to M1 in the Spring.
IMHO!
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Rich Belloff
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03-14-2006, 04:41 PM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: USA!!
Posts: 1,159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biz-z Z
So for your seasonal toy, it's change the oil at the end of the season even though it has less than, say, 8,500 on the clock. Ok. How about when you bring the car out in the following year? Drive off and enjoy until the end of the season or 8,500-10,000, which ever comes first?
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That's the ticket.
The contaminates in the oil also cause it to become acidic when it sits, so you should definitely change it when the car goes into hibernation regardless of the mileage. Drive out the door in the Spring and change it at the mileage you want or hibernation the next year, whichever comes first.
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1987 928S4 Silver Metallic (980)/Navy (TP) 5-Speed
2000 Boxster Speed Yellow/Black 5-Speed
1966 Wife White/Brown Top
1986 Daughter White/Brown Top (Sold!)
1992 Daughter White/Blonde Top
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03-14-2006, 04:58 PM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Minneapolis/St. Paul, Minnesota, USA
Posts: 3,308
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deliriousga
That's the ticket.
The contaminates in the oil also cause it to become acidic when it sits, so you should definitely change it when the car goes into hibernation regardless of the mileage. Drive out the door in the Spring and change it at the mileage you want or hibernation the next year, whichever comes first. 
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Hi,
What he said...  But to add, it's best to put the Car away and not to start it through the off-season. Serves no purpose except to contaminate the Fresh Oil...
Happy Motoring!... Jim'99
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03-14-2006, 08:14 PM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 150
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Ok you guys. Blank checks being sent to all.
Thanks for the advice.
__________________
Zib
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03-15-2006, 05:27 AM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 8,083
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MNBoxster
Hi,
What he said...  But to add, it's best to put the Car away and not to start it through the off-season. Serves no purpose except to contaminate the Fresh Oil...
Happy Motoring!... Jim'99
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Agreed. The BEST thing of course is to drive the car throughout the winter, say at least once a week where you can bring the car up to full operating temp, charge up the battery a bit, give the tires a good rolling, etc.
However, in some climes, this is not going to happen.
Good stuff!
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Rich Belloff
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