Installed the raby under-drive pulley

[Jake Raby]

a 5/16" (or 8mm) steel dowel inserted through the crank pulley and into the crankcase locking boss does the trick just fine.
I am putting together a kit that includes this improvised tool for the job.

[eclou]

any idea if this is less detrimental to the crank harmonics than a ltw flywheel? There have been speculations that there are increased IMS and RMS failures in BSR's with ltw flywheels. This might also help avoid power steering fluid overheating

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by Jake Raby

a 5/16" (or 8mm) steel dowel inserted through the crank pulley and into the crankcase locking boss does the trick just fine.
I am putting together a kit that includes this improvised tool for the job.

Jake, a quick question: Are you cutting away the boss used to hold the OEM pulley; and if so, how do you hold the new one or lock the engine position for service once the original boss is cut away?

[root_werks]

Seems like a good mod to me.

[Jake Raby]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

Jake, a quick question: Are you cutting away the boss used to hold the OEM pulley; and if so, how do you hold the new one or lock the engine position for service once the original boss is cut away?

This mod can't be compared to the LWFW. The LWFW won't add steady state tested HP because it only reduces mass. The UD pulley increases HP by slowing down the accessories of the engine.

JFP, the boss extends into the case, so after removing the 12mm necessary for clearance enough of the boss remains to be useful during cam timing and engine maintenance.

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by Jake Raby

JFP, the boss extends into the case, so after removing the 12mm necessary for clearance enough of the boss remains to be useful during cam timing and engine maintenance.

Thanks Jake, I've been wondering about that and some customers have been asking about your pulley................

[jhandy]

There really is no tips for this. I used a large Allen wrech with the car
in gear to stop the pulley. There are holes in both pulleys. I would think
there is a special tool like the one for the screw on oil filter adapter that
could be used. But not needed. You need a 15/16 large socket and a breaker
bar. Same size used to lever the belt tentioner. Don't loose the washer.
New bolt is 9$. Tighten to 192 ftlbs.
I did worry about turning the crank too far in either direction as not
to turn motor backwards. I don't know if it matters or not.
This is too simple not to do.

I think the multi tool cutter made this go so fast. Otherwise
cutting the boss looks like a pain in the rear.

[syncspeed]

Originally Posted by Jake Raby

a 5/16" (or 8mm) steel dowel inserted through the crank pulley and into the crankcase locking boss does the trick just fine.
I am putting together a kit that includes this improvised tool for the job.

Thank you, I thought about this at first but I was afraid that I would snap the boss off of the case and be totally up the creek.


Take care.

[Steve Tinker]

Just ordered the Flat6 under speed pulley.
Can anyone help with the part number (or where I can find the part number) for the new crank bolt I must order from my OPC - its a 3 hour round trip and I don't want to get there and find I've ordered the wrong part....

[jhandy]

OEM-90008208509

3.50$

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/more_info.cgi?pn=OEM-90008208509&catalog_description=Genuine%20Porsche%20Part%3A%20 HEX%20BOLT%20M%31%36X%36%30

[Steve Tinker]

Many thanks for your prompt reply jh.
I'll get onto my OPC today and order, though I bet its more than US$3-50 - more like $350 here in Oz...
Did anyone use Loctite 243 thread locker on the bolt, or just tighten as per the Bentleys manual?

[jhandy]

it has green thread locker already on the bolt. like the caliper bolts.

[Steve Tinker]

That's great - thanks again jh. I suppose the OPC will want extra for that too........