Oil Change Question

[jerhofer]

I recently changed the oil on Boxster S and had one problem. I was unable to get the filter off. I used a generic, plastic oil filter tool that fit OK but it broke before the oil filter was loosened. Since I had already drained the oil, I had no choice but to put new oil in and leave the filter on.

I have ordered the Boxster specific metal tool.

My queston is do I have to drain the oil again to replace the filter or is the filter high enough above the sump to remove it without oil pouring out the oil filter orifice?

[Brucelee]

If memory serves, you can just do the filter.

Good luck.

[Adam]

Yes that's right. You will get some drippage though, so have the oil pan handy!

[jerhofer]

Thanks for the responses.

[Brucelee]

Originally Posted by jerhofer

Thanks for the responses.

That is why we are here!

[Richard Truss]

along the same lines, i need to get a oil filter wrench -- do i need to order the fancy one from porsche or can i boogie on down to auto zone and get something that will work just as well?

[jerhofer]

There were oil change instructions on the Pelican website and I used the exact same plastic tool that was pictured there. While it broke, I don't know whether to blame the tool until I use the metal one I have on the way. The dealer who last changed the oil obviously tightened it too much or forgot to put oil on the gasket. I will let you know what happens when I get the bespoke oil filter tool.

[larez2]

Ironically, I just bought a Pep boys cheap-e oil filter wrench. I tried to by the Porsche one, but the dealer in San Diego, Pioneer Centres told me that I can't buy Porsche tools, only Porsche certified mechanics can - anyone ever heard that BS? I read on 986faq.com that as long as it is a 74mm 14 point wrench that you should be good to go.

I am going to change my oil tomorrow. We'll see how it goes!

I read on renntech.org that you are supposed to change the oil only when the engine has been brought up to operating temperature, so that means the oil will be hot - I personally can't see how it would make that much of a difference as long as you drain the old oil for a long time, like 20mins +.

Larez2

[Tool Pants]

Our local group has done a lot of oil changes and I always bring my metal filter wrench. We have broken the plastic types because whomever put on the cannister put it on too tight. Some part places places do have a metal version.

You can and I have bought Porsche tools, from any Porsche dealer.

I have the one sold by Porsche and did not like it because I had to remember to bring a 27 mm socket. So I bought one made by Hazet because you can use a standard 3/8" dive extension. All the mechanics I know use Hazet.

It is 74 mm with 14 flats. This is a standard size used on other Porsches, VW, Audi, and even BMW cycles.

You can find the Hazet version on ebay for $20. I paid about $7 for the Porsche version years ago but one of the local guys told me Porsche jacked up the price to $26.

[Brucelee]

I will be over at Hoen Porsche later today and I find out if one can buy a oil filter wrench from Porsche. The Pioneer answer sounds fishy to me too!

Yes, it is better to drain the oil when hot. It will flow much faster and certain crap will come out that will not if the oil is cold. Makes sense.

It does not have to be MAD HOT to flow well. If the oil as at say 150, this would be fine.

BTW- I am going to be researching high efficiency oil filters for the Box. I will report back later on that too!

15K is a long time for a filter to work well.

Lastly, I have just bought a batch of Shell Rotella T fully synthetic oil 5W-40 at Wal Mart. Cost per quart is about $3.45. Not bad as the avg cost for Mobil 1 black cap is about $5.99.



:dance:

Originally Posted by larez2

Ironically, I just bought a Pep boys cheap-e oil filter wrench. I tried to by the Porsche one, but the dealer in San Diego, Pioneer Centres told me that I can't buy Porsche tools, only Porsche certified mechanics can - anyone ever heard that BS? I read on 986faq.com that as long as it is a 74mm 14 point wrench that you should be good to go.

I am going to change my oil tomorrow. We'll see how it goes!

I read on renntech.org that you are supposed to change the oil only when the engine has been brought up to operating temperature, so that means the oil will be hot - I personally can't see how it would make that much of a difference as long as you drain the old oil for a long time, like 20mins +.

Larez2

[Richard Truss]

okay, cool -- i will look for the 74 mm with 14 flats. now how about the drain plug. if memory serves, i got it off last time but i did not use the correct wrench -- like it was torx and i used an allen or something like that. since I will be out buying tools and oil, i may as well pick up one of these babies as well.

do any of you know what auto/tool store (i.e. auto zone, napa, sears, etc) would most likely have the 74 mm / 14 flats? or am i stuck using the ebay option? i really wanted to change my oil this weekend as well, and I would hate to wait.

Thanks.

[pez]

Ya, Ditto does anyone have a part number for the hazet wrench?

Thanks!

Originally Posted by Richard Truss

okay, cool -- i will look for the 74 mm with 14 flats. now how about the drain plug. if memory serves, i got it off last time but i did not use the correct wrench -- like it was torx and i used an allen or something like that. since I will be out buying tools and oil, i may as well pick up one of these babies as well.

do any of you know what auto/tool store (i.e. auto zone, napa, sears, etc) would most likely have the 74 mm / 14 flats? or am i stuck using the ebay option? i really wanted to change my oil this weekend as well, and I would hate to wait.

Thanks.

[Tool Pants]

Hazet is 2169.

The drain plug is 8 mm allen.

[pez]

Thanks!
Here is a place that carries it..
http://www.toolss.com/wbstore/main.asp?action=PROD&PROD=HAZET2169&CTMP=1

[larez2]

The Penzoil adjustable wrench didn't work. So i purchased one from Napa for $3.99. It worked find even though is says it's 15 flute. I attached a picture of it with this post.

I don't know what other guys use to get under the car. I have a floor jack, but purchased some ramps because I thought it would be easier. The Boxster is so low to begin with even on the ramps it was a pain to get underneath the car. I've always had trucks and lifted vehicles so working underneath was easy and usually didn't require jacking. I could not be on my side under the Boxster so i had to do all the work one handed with my right hand. The exhaust is right by there, so be careful - it's hot.

Like tool pants said 8mm allen key/wrench for the drain plug. I purchased long handle allen key/wrench and I am glad i did because the plug was on tight. The oil filter was also on real tight. It was a pain to remove the drain plug because the oil was hot - i wore gloves, a definite must for this IMO. The oil gushes out real fast at first, it actually splashed off of my catch and a bit on me at first. It took a really long time to completely drain, i'd say about 20 mins.

The oil filter canister was on tight, but wasn't hard to get off, but the oil filter stuck to the car, so when I took the canister off a bunch of oil dripped everywhere. It didn't stick very hard, so i could pull it off, but is was pretty messy.

Putting everything back was easy, and filling was straight forward. I filled it with 8 1/2 quarts, and drove it around the block and let it sit for a bit and checked the stick, it looked good so i didn't add anymore.

Good Luck,
Larez2

[cyclocross]

Originally Posted by Richard Truss

along the same lines, i need to get a oil filter wrench -- do i need to order the fancy one from porsche or can i boogie on down to auto zone and get something that will work just as well?

Hi, all. I bought a plastic wrench at WalMart when I bought the oil. The wrench flutes did slip initially on the filter. I just used a large diameter hose clamp (4") to tighten the fit and the wrench worked perfectly. FWIW...

[Adam]

Just an FYI for people new to the oil change thing. You don't need ramps or a lift to change the oil. I just use a regular hydrolic jack and lift up one side of the car by the jacking point. I get underneath with a creeper and do what needs to be done and then let the car back down slowly so the car is on an even plane. Then I wait about 20-30min for the oil to drain and then lift the car back up and button everthing back up. This is much easier than dealing with ramps.

[Brucelee]

Nice tip, thanks for shaing that.

Originally Posted by Adam

Just an FYI for people new to the oil change thing. You don't need ramps or a lift to change the oil. I just use a regular hydrolic jack and lift up one side of the car by the jacking point. I get underneath with a creeper and do what needs to be done and then let the car back down slowly so the car is on an even plane. Then I wait about 20-30min for the oil to drain and then lift the car back up and button everthing back up. This is much easier than dealing with ramps.

[Thumper]

I'd be a bit paranoid about crawing under any vehicle supported by just a floor jack. Jack stands are cheap insurance against getting squished.

[Adam]

Oh for sure! Never get under the car without a jackstand. I guess I just thought that would be a given but some people may forget or not own one.