03-24-2005, 04:37 AM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Rockwell, NC
Posts: 25
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Oil Change Question
I recently changed the oil on Boxster S and had one problem. I was unable to get the filter off. I used a generic, plastic oil filter tool that fit OK but it broke before the oil filter was loosened. Since I had already drained the oil, I had no choice but to put new oil in and leave the filter on.
I have ordered the Boxster specific metal tool.
My queston is do I have to drain the oil again to replace the filter or is the filter high enough above the sump to remove it without oil pouring out the oil filter orifice?
__________________
2005 Boxster
Bose
Seal Gray/Dark Gray
18" Wheels
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03-24-2005, 05:19 AM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 8,083
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If memory serves, you can just do the filter.
Good luck.
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03-24-2005, 06:59 AM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Illinois
Posts: 3,033
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Yes that's right. You will get some drippage though, so have the oil pan handy!
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03-24-2005, 07:41 AM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Rockwell, NC
Posts: 25
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Thanks for the responses.
__________________
2005 Boxster
Bose
Seal Gray/Dark Gray
18" Wheels
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03-24-2005, 08:07 AM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 8,083
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jerhofer
Thanks for the responses.
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That is why we are here!
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03-24-2005, 06:05 PM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Sin City
Posts: 178
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along the same lines, i need to get a oil filter wrench -- do i need to order the fancy one from porsche or can i boogie on down to auto zone and get something that will work just as well?
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2000 S (3x Black)
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03-24-2005, 06:13 PM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Rockwell, NC
Posts: 25
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There were oil change instructions on the Pelican website and I used the exact same plastic tool that was pictured there. While it broke, I don't know whether to blame the tool until I use the metal one I have on the way. The dealer who last changed the oil obviously tightened it too much or forgot to put oil on the gasket. I will let you know what happens when I get the bespoke oil filter tool.
__________________
2005 Boxster
Bose
Seal Gray/Dark Gray
18" Wheels
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03-24-2005, 08:38 PM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: San Diego
Posts: 155
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Ironically, I just bought a Pep boys cheap-e oil filter wrench. I tried to by the Porsche one, but the dealer in San Diego, Pioneer Centres told me that I can't buy Porsche tools, only Porsche certified mechanics can - anyone ever heard that BS? I read on 986faq.com that as long as it is a 74mm 14 point wrench that you should be good to go.
I am going to change my oil tomorrow. We'll see how it goes!
I read on renntech.org that you are supposed to change the oil only when the engine has been brought up to operating temperature, so that means the oil will be hot - I personally can't see how it would make that much of a difference as long as you drain the old oil for a long time, like 20mins +.
Larez2
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03-24-2005, 11:16 PM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2002
Location: San Jose
Posts: 1,889
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Our local group has done a lot of oil changes and I always bring my metal filter wrench. We have broken the plastic types because whomever put on the cannister put it on too tight. Some part places places do have a metal version.
You can and I have bought Porsche tools, from any Porsche dealer.
I have the one sold by Porsche and did not like it because I had to remember to bring a 27 mm socket. So I bought one made by Hazet because you can use a standard 3/8" dive extension. All the mechanics I know use Hazet.
It is 74 mm with 14 flats. This is a standard size used on other Porsches, VW, Audi, and even BMW cycles.
You can find the Hazet version on ebay for $20. I paid about $7 for the Porsche version years ago but one of the local guys told me Porsche jacked up the price to $26.
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03-25-2005, 06:25 AM
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 8,083
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I will be over at Hoen Porsche later today and I find out if one can buy a oil filter wrench from Porsche. The Pioneer answer sounds fishy to me too!
Yes, it is better to drain the oil when hot. It will flow much faster and certain crap will come out that will not if the oil is cold. Makes sense.
It does not have to be MAD HOT to flow well. If the oil as at say 150, this would be fine.
BTW- I am going to be researching high efficiency oil filters for the Box. I will report back later on that too!
15K is a long time for a filter to work well.
Lastly, I have just bought a batch of Shell Rotella T fully synthetic oil 5W-40 at Wal Mart. Cost per quart is about $3.45. Not bad as the avg cost for Mobil 1 black cap is about $5.99.
:dance:
Quote:
Originally Posted by larez2
Ironically, I just bought a Pep boys cheap-e oil filter wrench. I tried to by the Porsche one, but the dealer in San Diego, Pioneer Centres told me that I can't buy Porsche tools, only Porsche certified mechanics can - anyone ever heard that BS? I read on 986faq.com that as long as it is a 74mm 14 point wrench that you should be good to go.
I am going to change my oil tomorrow. We'll see how it goes!
I read on renntech.org that you are supposed to change the oil only when the engine has been brought up to operating temperature, so that means the oil will be hot - I personally can't see how it would make that much of a difference as long as you drain the old oil for a long time, like 20mins +.
Larez2
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Last edited by Brucelee; 03-25-2005 at 06:27 AM.
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03-25-2005, 08:06 AM
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Sin City
Posts: 178
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okay, cool -- i will look for the 74 mm with 14 flats. now how about the drain plug. if memory serves, i got it off last time but i did not use the correct wrench -- like it was torx and i used an allen or something like that. since I will be out buying tools and oil, i may as well pick up one of these babies as well.
do any of you know what auto/tool store (i.e. auto zone, napa, sears, etc) would most likely have the 74 mm / 14 flats? or am i stuck using the ebay option? i really wanted to change my oil this weekend as well, and I would hate to wait.
Thanks.
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2000 S (3x Black)
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11-04-2005, 01:28 PM
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Minneapolis/St. Paul, Minnesota, USA
Posts: 3,308
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larez2
...I read on renntech.org that you are supposed to change the oil only when the engine has been brought up to operating temperature, so that means the oil will be hot - I personally can't see how it would make that much of a difference as long as you drain the old oil for a long time, like 20mins +.
Larez2
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Hi,
Old thread, I was doing some idle catching up and found it. There are actually two reasons why you want to run the Car and warm it up before changing the Oil.
First, warming it up allows it to Flow easier and so you get more of the old Oil out.
Second, and more importantly, quite a bit of the dirt suspended in the Oil will settle out once the Oil is stagnant and cool. Warming up the engine allows the Oil to pick up this dirt once again so it is flushed from the Engine with the Oil. The Primary reason for changing the Oil at the Service Interval is to remove this dirt, not because the Oil's Lubricating Capacity has expired. Hope this helps...
Happy Motoring!... Jim'99
Last edited by MNBoxster; 11-05-2005 at 09:51 AM.
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11-04-2005, 02:57 PM
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 8,083
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As Jim said, change it when hot.
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03-26-2005, 08:10 AM
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#14
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Lamorinda, CA
Posts: 44
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plastic oil wrench
Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard Truss
along the same lines, i need to get a oil filter wrench -- do i need to order the fancy one from porsche or can i boogie on down to auto zone and get something that will work just as well?
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Hi, all. I bought a plastic wrench at WalMart when I bought the oil. The wrench flutes did slip initially on the filter. I just used a large diameter hose clamp (4") to tighten the fit and the wrench worked perfectly. FWIW...
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Dan, 2002 C2 Black/Tan
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03-26-2005, 03:00 PM
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#15
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Illinois
Posts: 3,033
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Just an FYI for people new to the oil change thing. You don't need ramps or a lift to change the oil. I just use a regular hydrolic jack and lift up one side of the car by the jacking point. I get underneath with a creeper and do what needs to be done and then let the car back down slowly so the car is on an even plane. Then I wait about 20-30min for the oil to drain and then lift the car back up and button everthing back up. This is much easier than dealing with ramps.
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03-26-2005, 03:23 PM
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#16
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 8,083
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Nice tip, thanks for shaing that.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam
Just an FYI for people new to the oil change thing. You don't need ramps or a lift to change the oil. I just use a regular hydrolic jack and lift up one side of the car by the jacking point. I get underneath with a creeper and do what needs to be done and then let the car back down slowly so the car is on an even plane. Then I wait about 20-30min for the oil to drain and then lift the car back up and button everthing back up. This is much easier than dealing with ramps.
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03-28-2005, 09:11 AM
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#17
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: McKinney, TX
Posts: 473
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I'd be a bit paranoid about crawing under any vehicle supported by just a floor jack.  Jack stands are cheap insurance against getting squished.
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