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Old 12-22-2009, 09:06 AM   #1
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SwayBar discussion: Anyone go from M030 to GT3/Tarett?

Let's talk swaybar setups. Has anyone gone from the M030 sways to a GT3 front with Tarett Engineering rear?

I'm currently on the M030 S Front, with M030 base rear setup, and while it has been a great mod, and much nicer than stock, I've gotten used to it. The continual mod bug has me curious how the boxsterspec setup would feel for a street car: GT3 front bar with Tarett rear bar.

Anyone personally go from the M030 to GT3/Tarett that can comment?

Thanks in advance!
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Old 12-23-2009, 06:26 AM   #2
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The advantage to the M030 setup is that it is factory tuned to your car. The advantage of the GT3/Tarett combo is tuneability so you can use different setups for different tracks. Get your car really tied down for the smooth surface and banked roval at Fontana and loosen it up a bit for quick transitions or rougher track surfaces.
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Old 12-24-2009, 11:14 AM   #3
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More on Boxsterspec sway bars:
http://www.boxsterspec.com/spec-boxster-talk-f2-swaybar-question-t14010.html
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Old 12-31-2009, 05:08 PM   #4
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Topless, thank you for the link.

Aside from the adjustability factor with the GT3/Tarett setup, how would the GT3 front on full soft, and Tarett rear on full soft, on a daily driven car feel compared to the M030 setup?

Aside from understeer/oversteer differences, would the car feel flatter and have less body roll while cornering? Would the car ride noticably stiffer over rough roads?
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Some stuff for sale: M030 S 24mm front sway bar, M030 base 19.6mm rear sway bar, 996 GT3 OEM Porsche Motorsport front strut mounts monoball "camber plates"

WTB: looking for some 5-7mm spacers with extended bolts
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Old 01-01-2010, 05:57 PM   #5
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Chaud,
I believe the GT3/Tarett sways will be a notch stiffer than your current setup even at full soft, both in terms of cornering stability and driver comfort. The big advantage is adjustability though. Every race track is different. If you can tune your car to make the most out of the two or three "money turns" that lead onto a straightaway it may be the difference between 1st and 5th place. On the street I am not sure they are worth the $1200 or so to add them along with the upgraded drop links you will need. In terms of raw lap times they may only be worth 2/10ths on a 2 min. lap.

I am not sure what your goals are though. If you want a mod that will transform your car for the same $$ I suggest you get a second set of wheels and comp tires. Angels will rain down from the heavens when you go canyon carving with your buddies on a set of R-comp tires. Just avoid standing water as they hydroplane easily. On the same 2 min. lap the R-comp tires may be worth 4-5 seconds. A lot more bang for the buck.

Good luck with your car whatever you choose.
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Old 05-19-2010, 10:12 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Topless
Chaud,
I believe the GT3/Tarett sways will be a notch stiffer than your current setup even at full soft, both in terms of cornering stability and driver comfort. The big advantage is adjustability though. Every race track is different. If you can tune your car to make the most out of the two or three "money turns" that lead onto a straightaway it may be the difference between 1st and 5th place. On the street I am not sure they are worth the $1200 or so to add them along with the upgraded drop links you will need. In terms of raw lap times they may only be worth 2/10ths on a 2 min. lap.

I am not sure what your goals are though. If you want a mod that will transform your car for the same $$ I suggest you get a second set of wheels and comp tires. Angels will rain down from the heavens when you go canyon carving with your buddies on a set of R-comp tires. Just avoid standing water as they hydroplane easily. On the same 2 min. lap the R-comp tires may be worth 4-5 seconds. A lot more bang for the buck.

Good luck with your car whatever you choose.
Topless, thank you for the advice. I don't know how I missed your response, and I guess I got sidetracked with my own thread lol.

Has anyone else experimented with other front bar alternatives between the OEM GT3 bar, GMG, TRG, TPC, etc?

And, are the Tarett droplinks still the current preferred setup, or has anyone else produced something better lately?
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Some stuff for sale: M030 S 24mm front sway bar, M030 base 19.6mm rear sway bar, 996 GT3 OEM Porsche Motorsport front strut mounts monoball "camber plates"

WTB: looking for some 5-7mm spacers with extended bolts
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Old 05-20-2010, 09:57 AM   #7
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Have you considered the H&R sway bars for the boxster ? The the front is 26 mm and the rear is an adjustable 22 mm .
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Old 05-20-2010, 02:36 PM   #8
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Word on the boxster spec board is that the Tarret bar is preferred over the H&R bar b/c the H&R is TOO stiff.

I'd imagine you could dial in nice a GT3 front, H&R rear combo with the right f/r tire size selection.
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Old 06-17-2010, 12:56 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Danger
Have you considered the H&R sway bars for the boxster ? The the front is 26 mm and the rear is an adjustable 22 mm .
Yes, I've been trying to make a good decision between H&R and Tarett now. I took a look at the Eibach bar as well.

for the front, the popular choice seems to be the GT3 bar...

Rear, I'm still debating between H&R, Tarett, and Eibach. Still doing some research on their respective stiffness ratings, specs, and user feedback.

Does anyone know, in regards to the Tarett rear bar. I believe that is spec'd as a 19.1mm OD bar. I'm not sure the wall thickness spec on it... But in comparison to the Rear porsche M030 base bar, at 19.6mm OD, and 2.6mm thickness.... would this be pretty similar stiffness rating to the Tarett bar on full soft? (Seeing if I ran the GT3 front, with the M030 base rear... if that would be similar to running the GT3 front, Tarett rear at full soft.)

and as a side note, I'm running the typical 225/45/18 front, 265/35/18 staggered setup...

Suggestions/feedback?
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Some stuff for sale: M030 S 24mm front sway bar, M030 base 19.6mm rear sway bar, 996 GT3 OEM Porsche Motorsport front strut mounts monoball "camber plates"

WTB: looking for some 5-7mm spacers with extended bolts

Last edited by chaudanova; 06-17-2010 at 12:58 AM.
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Old 06-17-2010, 03:24 AM   #10
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i run the GT3 up front w/ H&R in back. the H&R is STIFF. i wish it had a couple more settings; there are only two holes on each side.

i run the GT3 bar full soft up front for both street & track. i run the rear sway full soft on the street & i stiffen ONE SIDE by one hole for the track. the car is VERY neutral here w/ my setup. i've tried full stiff at the track and it was way too tail happy. not enough power to keep the rear end planted at this setting for me.
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Old 06-17-2010, 11:08 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by insite
i run the GT3 up front w/ H&R in back. the H&R is STIFF. i wish it had a couple more settings; there are only two holes on each side.

i run the GT3 bar full soft up front for both street & track. i run the rear sway full soft on the street & i stiffen ONE SIDE by one hole for the track. the car is VERY neutral here w/ my setup.
i've tried full stiff at the track and it was way too tail happy. not enough power to keep the rear end planted at this setting for me.
Insite; by adjusting only one side, meaning that you now have three settings on the H&R bar.

However, doesn't this means that one side will be stiffer than the other (by having a longer arm)..? Does the car feels the same on the L and R turns?
.
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Old 06-17-2010, 05:43 PM   #12
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For those of you have adjustable rear sway(roll) bars how does the feel of the car change as you gradually stiffen the setting.......too much weight transfer to the outside wheel overloading the available traction? Correcting for this means more throttle once your in a slide?
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Old 06-18-2010, 03:31 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gilles
Insite; by adjusting only one side, meaning that you now have three settings on the H&R bar.

However, doesn't this means that one side will be stiffer than the other (by having a longer arm)..? Does the car feels the same on the L and R turns?
.

gilles -

the sway bars are not fixed at the center of the car, meaning that when you twist one side, it's countered by the other side. this means that the total torque on the bar = force * (lever arm 1 + lever arm 2) and is the same from side to side. there is no difference between a left turn or a right turn in this respect. just make sure if you do this that you have adjustable sway bar links so you can dial out any pre-load resulting from uneven arm lengths.
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