Upgrading your sway bar drop links - 986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners

Lucky · 06-09-2009, 03:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mylamb

They look very similar to Tarrett's - so that's a good price. How do you like them?

Love 'em. They've transformed my car. I think my 101K mile originals where completely shot (lot's of free play) and made the car feel unstable. It's now solidly planted to the road and very flat through the corners.

The DesignTech links do seem to be very good quality, but only time and miles will reveal their durability. If the heim joint ends do wear, I can always source replacements for just those parts.

At the price, these things are one of the few really good values in the Porsche parts world...

Allen K. Littlefield · 06-09-2009, 10:40 AM

...and will let you know how they work out. I was going to do this after I put the larger sway bars on but found them a bit pricey. These are reasonable. I have heard of some failures of the drop links and if you have a look at the stock ones you will see what is tantamount to a large "wire" tying the sway bar in. Looks flimsy as hell and I suppose it is from some reports. I also am experiencing the same 'sloppiness' in cornering and hope this clears it up.

AKL

Brad Roberts · 06-09-2009, 10:42 AM

They are NOT like the Tarret's.. and you will soon find out the difference. TRG tried to sell drop links with the same size heim you see in the pics above.. and it doesn't work. Your heims will break. It is just a matter of time. In the front of our cars (and 996's) you have to have X amount of movement in the heim. The heim's you have do not have enough for full lock to lock steering with a shock in full bump. It will snap off at the threads leading into the alum.

It requires a larger heim.. and.. you will learn that there is a HUGE difference in heim manufacturing. The cheap ones rattle and make noise after 100 miles. The expensive ones will never make noise.

Not sure where you got your Tarett pricing.. but.. Rears = $200 Fronts = $275 and with minor effort, he gives out *some* discounts.

Do not cheap out on your suspension. It ranks second behind safety equipment. Break a heim going into turn 9 at Willow Springs and you will be going off at 125mph across the dirt heading for the green monster. BTDT.

B

Allen K. Littlefield · 06-13-2009, 12:32 PM

Thanks for the heads up Brad.

AKL

Brad Roberts · 06-14-2009, 10:43 AM

This is what I keep saying to myself when I see cheap *solutions* to problems a lot of us solved 10+ years ago: "there is no free lunch"

I had someone call me the other day asking if I would buy his drop links with heims made in Mexico. I said sure, the machining of the alum is not the expensive part of the equation, it is the good heims and the two spacers on each side of the heim that allow the heim full range of motion. There is a lot of torque on the two spacers (64lbt-ft?) and most snap off the small lip needed to allow the heim full motion when torqued properly. By the time he went through all the numbers and material costs.. he was $20 cheaper than the Tarret's. Not worth it. Why saturate the market space when it is such a small space to begin with?

B

Allen K. Littlefield · 06-14-2009, 11:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brad Roberts

This is what I keep saying to myself when I see cheap *solutions* to problems a lot of us solved 10+ years ago: "there is no free lunch"

I had someone call me the other day asking if I would buy his drop links with heims made in Mexico. I said sure, the machining of the alum is not the expensive part of the equation, it is the good heims and the two spacers on each side of the heim that allow the heim full range of motion. There is a lot of torque on the two spacers (64lbt-ft?) and most snap off the small lip needed to allow the heim full motion when torqued properly. By the time he went through all the numbers and material costs.. he was $20 cheaper than the Tarret's. Not worth it. Why saturate the market space when it is such a small space to begin with?

B

Brad, I wonder why anybody would want to peddle an inferior product that may lead to injury and the following lawsuits? Seems like these links are quite a liability.

Thanks again,

AKL

Brad Roberts · 06-14-2009, 11:43 AM

The key is: they will work for people who never track their car or autoX it... or drive 10 seconds off the pace of class leaders in TT's or races.

I instruct people at track events. One of the things I teach is: what the car feels like when a link is broken. I purposely remove a link from the front and have them do a session, then remove a link from the back. Most drivers don't like surprises.

The stock ones break. These will break. Nobody sues Porsche when their plastic ones break (that I'm aware of) and doubt anyone will sue if one of these break.

I highly suggest ANYONE tracking their cars to "test" with and without a link attached. Get used to the feeling so it does not surprise you when one does fail.

B

Lucky · 06-15-2009, 01:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brad Roberts

The key is: they will work for people who never track their car or autoX it.

Yup... I just use the Boxster as a street car, so I'm not worrying about breaking these. Up to about 500 miles... no rattles, yet.

The one weak area, in my opinion, with the Design911 links is the spacers. They have very thin walls, so the clamping load that is transferred between the spacer and the hub carrier (at the upper end) or sway bar (at the lower end) is concentrated in a small area. My concern is that this concentrated load will cause wear or deformation to the mild steel sway bar or soft aluminum hub carrier. Having said that, I have experienced no issues yet.

BTW, I started this thread to share this experiment with y'all. If it turns out well and these are durable links... then great. If, after a few hundred more miles, the parts go sour then that is an acceptable outcome as well. We all get a chance to learn from my (poor) choice, then. I'll report back as the miles grow.

mylamb · 06-15-2009, 01:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brad Roberts

The key is: they will work for people who never track their car or autoX it... or drive 10 seconds off the pace of class leaders in TT's or races.

I instruct people at track events. One of the things I teach is: what the car feels like when a link is broken. I purposely remove a link from the front and have them do a session, then remove a link from the back. Most drivers don't like surprises.

The stock ones break. These will break. Nobody sues Porsche when their plastic ones break (that I'm aware of) and doubt anyone will sue if one of these break.

I highly suggest ANYONE tracking their cars to "test" with and without a link attached. Get used to the feeling so it does not surprise you when one does fail.

B

Brad -

That sounds like a good experience for a novice driver. Which one feels more severe/uncatchable on a mid-engined car like a Boxster? A missing link at the front or one at the rear?

09-21-2009, 06:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brad Roberts

The key is: they will work for people who never track their car or autoX it... or drive 10 seconds off the pace of class leaders in TT's or races.

I instruct people at track events. One of the things I teach is: what the car feels like when a link is broken. I purposely remove a link from the front and have them do a session, then remove a link from the back. Most drivers don't like surprises.

The stock ones break. These will break. Nobody sues Porsche when their plastic ones break (that I'm aware of) and doubt anyone will sue if one of these break.

I highly suggest ANYONE tracking their cars to "test" with and without a link attached. Get used to the feeling so it does not surprise you when one does fail.

B

I just started AXing with my stock '99 Boxster and plan on doing it more. Would you mind sharing with us newbies to the sport what it is we should be hearing, feeling or seeing when a drop link fails? Thanks from a novice who's having fun with his car.