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Old 11-27-2016, 08:19 AM   #1
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8mm hex socket stuck

While changing the oil my 8 mm hex socket got stuck on the oil drain plug; tried wd40 but will not come out; removed the socket but the hex part remains in drain plug. How do I remove the hex from the drain plug
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Old 11-27-2016, 08:50 AM   #2
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Well Crap.... My first recommendation is a new plug, the old one may be in the process of rounding off internally, could make removal in the future questionable. But to see if I can help, I think you have a 2 piece hex bit and the machined hex has pulled out of the socket. This happened because while removing/tightening the plug, the hex started rotating and now has a friction bite on the plug. First try torqueing the plug correctly, then gently attempt to loosen the plug. Hopefully you will break the friction bite before the plug breaks free. Good Luck.

Last edited by 911monty; 11-27-2016 at 08:55 AM.
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Old 11-27-2016, 08:58 AM   #3
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Use a pair of channelLocks on the outside of the plug and then the socket on the hex part and twist counterclockwise.
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Old 11-27-2016, 09:16 AM   #4
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Jay Sorry but I disagree. Don't put any tools on that flange yet as that is the sealing surface. Any bite marks or distortion of that surface can result in leaks or breakage.
The next thing I'd do is put the hex socket together, then using an 6" ratchet extention while loosening gently rock the extension back and forth.

Edit: I'm also assuming this is Ciao's first oil change, as this is really a common occurrence using a hardened bit in that soft aluminum.

Last edited by 911monty; 11-27-2016 at 09:32 AM.
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Old 11-27-2016, 02:00 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by 911monty View Post
Jay Sorry but I disagree. Don't put any tools on that flange yet as that is the sealing surface. Any bite marks or distortion of that surface can result in leaks or breakage.
The next thing I'd do is put the hex socket together, then using an 6" ratchet extention while loosening gently rock the extension back and forth.

Edit: I'm also assuming this is Ciao's first oil change, as this is really a common occurrence using a hardened bit in that soft aluminum.
Good tips! Thanks!

BTW Yes, this is my first oil change. I didn't expect this to take me 2 hours. The drain plug is in but there's the hex sticking out from under the pan and drain plug; I'll try the 6" ratchet and gently rock the extension back and forth.

Why is this a common occurrence? And how can it be avoided?

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Old 11-27-2016, 02:13 PM   #6
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It's common because the plug is aluminum and the bit is steel, then people use a ratchet to tighten it instead of a torque wrench calibrated to the proper torque.

Avoid it by buying a new drain plug for next time and use a torque wrench (the required torque is very little - 37 ft/lbs for stock plug).

Last edited by particlewave; 11-27-2016 at 02:16 PM.
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Old 11-27-2016, 02:36 PM   #7
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It's common because the plug is aluminum and the bit is steel, then people use a ratchet to tighten it instead of a torque wrench calibrated to the proper torque.

Avoid it by buying a new drain plug for next time and use a torque wrench (the required torque is very little - 37 ft/lbs for stock plug).
I use a torque wrench religiously, but the bit got stock on the removal. I will need to replace the drain plug but would like to avoid a second or repeated occurrence.

Cheers!
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Old 11-27-2016, 02:54 PM   #8
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Not much you can do. It's the nature of the beast (aluminum vs steel). Mine gets "stuck" every time. A light tap CCW frees it without loosening the plug.
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Old 11-27-2016, 02:55 PM   #9
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Ciao As PW said the main issue is the hardened tool steel in the soft aluminum plug. The aluminum is possibly softer than frozen butter. So make sure you have a good quality hex socket and make sure that the socket is centered well in the plug before applying torque. Oh and use a new crush ring every time.
Now I am going to depart from the specs.... IMO I see no reason to torque that plug to 37 lb/ft. Even though that is spec. Consider that the LN plug is only torqued to 19 lb/ft. The plug only has to be tightened enough to not leak or back out. So I see no reason to go beyond ~25 lb/ft. Aluminum does not go plastic and stretch like steel does, Once yield torque is attained in aluminum it simply yields. Also now might be a good time to Upgade to a LN mag plug. Initially I thought that LN limited torque to keep that way too thin flange from breaking off. Then I came to realize that maybe they were smart and designed the flange to break off BEFORE the pan was damaged!! Genius. Plug is cheap, Pan not so much. As a note I only tighten my plug to 15 lb/ft. It has never leaked yet.

Last edited by 911monty; 11-27-2016 at 03:29 PM.
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Old 11-27-2016, 04:06 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 911monty View Post
Ciao As PW said the main issue is the hardened tool steel in the soft aluminum plug. The aluminum is possibly softer than frozen butter. So make sure you have a good quality hex socket and make sure that the socket is centered well in the plug before applying torque. Oh and use a new crush ring every time.
Now I am going to depart from the specs.... IMO I see no reason to torque that plug to 37 lb/ft. Even though that is spec. Consider that the LN plug is only torqued to 19 lb/ft. The plug only has to be tightened enough to not leak or back out. So I see no reason to go beyond ~25 lb/ft. Aluminum does not go plastic and stretch like steel does, Once yield torque is attained in aluminum it simply yields. Also now might be a good time to Upgade to a LN mag plug. Initially I thought that LN limited torque to keep that way too thin flange from breaking off. Then I came to realize that maybe they were smart and designed the flange to break off BEFORE the pan was damaged!! Genius. Plug is cheap, Pan not so much. As a note I only tighten my plug to 15 lb/ft. It has never leaked yet.
Monty, I agree the torque specs are too high; I actually went ~ 19 lb/ft but didn't replace the aluminum crush ring; think I'm good for a season of driving? I plan on driving during late spring through Fall with ~3000 miles before snow arrives. I will replace crush ring and upgrade to LN mag plug at next oil change if all goes well during the next 3000 miles

Cheers!
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Old 11-27-2016, 04:17 PM   #11
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Monty, I agree the torque specs are too high; I actually went ~ 19 lb/ft but didn't replace the aluminum crush ring; think I'm good for a season of driving? I plan on driving during late spring through Fall with ~3000 miles before snow arrives. I will replace crush ring and upgrade to LN mag plug at next oil change if all goes well during the next 3000 miles

Cheers!
Well if you don't see a pool of oil under the car by late spring then I would think the old ring is ok. I bought 2 LN plugs and a new factory plus 10 rings as JIC stock. Did you get the bit out ok?
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Old 11-27-2016, 04:27 PM   #12
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Well if you don't see a pool of oil under the car by late spring then I would think the old ring is ok. I bought 2 LN plugs and a new factory plus 10 rings as JIC stock. Did you get the bit out ok?
No; I haven't attempted it; it is still on the drain plug
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Old 11-28-2016, 12:11 PM   #13
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Good tips! Thanks!

BTW Yes, this is my first oil change. I didn't expect this to take me 2 hours.

Cheers!
It takes 1 hour and 45 minutes for the oil to drain
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Old 11-28-2016, 05:09 PM   #14
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It takes 1 hour and 45 minutes for the oil to drain
Thanks! It didn't take me so long after all. BTW when checking the oil level (I used 5-40) when I turn off the engine and turn key on to check oil level on the instrument panel the digital display was going up and down for several minutes. After about 15 -30 minutes It finally showed the display on full. I guess it took the oil time to drain into the pan for a valid reading.
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Old 12-13-2016, 07:39 PM   #15
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Are all 8mm hex to 1/2" drive tools created equal?

Can anyone suggest a good one for Boxster oil changes? I think the length of the 8mm male side is important isn't it?

Got a link to a good one?

Thx!
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Old 12-16-2016, 12:49 PM   #16
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Use 8mm hex with a 1/4" drive?
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