8mm hex socket stuck

[particlewave]

It's common because the plug is aluminum and the bit is steel, then people use a ratchet to tighten it instead of a torque wrench calibrated to the proper torque.

Avoid it by buying a new drain plug for next time and use a torque wrench (the required torque is very little - 37 ft/lbs for stock plug).

[Ciao]

Originally Posted by particlewave

It's common because the plug is aluminum and the bit is steel, then people use a ratchet to tighten it instead of a torque wrench calibrated to the proper torque.

Avoid it by buying a new drain plug for next time and use a torque wrench (the required torque is very little - 37 ft/lbs for stock plug).

I use a torque wrench religiously, but the bit got stock on the removal. I will need to replace the drain plug but would like to avoid a second or repeated occurrence.

Cheers!

[911monty]

Ciao As PW said the main issue is the hardened tool steel in the soft aluminum plug. The aluminum is possibly softer than frozen butter. So make sure you have a good quality hex socket and make sure that the socket is centered well in the plug before applying torque. Oh and use a new crush ring every time.
Now I am going to depart from the specs.... IMO I see no reason to torque that plug to 37 lb/ft. Even though that is spec. Consider that the LN plug is only torqued to 19 lb/ft. The plug only has to be tightened enough to not leak or back out. So I see no reason to go beyond ~25 lb/ft. Aluminum does not go plastic and stretch like steel does, Once yield torque is attained in aluminum it simply yields. Also now might be a good time to Upgade to a LN mag plug. Initially I thought that LN limited torque to keep that way too thin flange from breaking off. Then I came to realize that maybe they were smart and designed the flange to break off BEFORE the pan was damaged!! Genius. Plug is cheap, Pan not so much. As a note I only tighten my plug to 15 lb/ft. It has never leaked yet.

[Ciao]

Originally Posted by 911monty

Ciao As PW said the main issue is the hardened tool steel in the soft aluminum plug. The aluminum is possibly softer than frozen butter. So make sure you have a good quality hex socket and make sure that the socket is centered well in the plug before applying torque. Oh and use a new crush ring every time.
Now I am going to depart from the specs.... IMO I see no reason to torque that plug to 37 lb/ft. Even though that is spec. Consider that the LN plug is only torqued to 19 lb/ft. The plug only has to be tightened enough to not leak or back out. So I see no reason to go beyond ~25 lb/ft. Aluminum does not go plastic and stretch like steel does, Once yield torque is attained in aluminum it simply yields. Also now might be a good time to Upgade to a LN mag plug. Initially I thought that LN limited torque to keep that way too thin flange from breaking off. Then I came to realize that maybe they were smart and designed the flange to break off BEFORE the pan was damaged!! Genius. Plug is cheap, Pan not so much. As a note I only tighten my plug to 15 lb/ft. It has never leaked yet.

Monty, I agree the torque specs are too high; I actually went ~ 19 lb/ft but didn't replace the aluminum crush ring; think I'm good for a season of driving? I plan on driving during late spring through Fall with ~3000 miles before snow arrives. I will replace crush ring and upgrade to LN mag plug at next oil change if all goes well during the next 3000 miles

Cheers!

[911monty]

Originally Posted by Ciao

Monty, I agree the torque specs are too high; I actually went ~ 19 lb/ft but didn't replace the aluminum crush ring; think I'm good for a season of driving? I plan on driving during late spring through Fall with ~3000 miles before snow arrives. I will replace crush ring and upgrade to LN mag plug at next oil change if all goes well during the next 3000 miles

Cheers!

Well if you don't see a pool of oil under the car by late spring then I would think the old ring is ok. I bought 2 LN plugs and a new factory plus 10 rings as JIC stock. Did you get the bit out ok?

[Ciao]

Originally Posted by 911monty

Well if you don't see a pool of oil under the car by late spring then I would think the old ring is ok. I bought 2 LN plugs and a new factory plus 10 rings as JIC stock. Did you get the bit out ok?

No; I haven't attempted it; it is still on the drain plug