Tips and advice please for IMS bearing replacement

[Nine8Six]

Originally Posted by 78F350

Hopefully you have already read through some of the "I messed up using set screw" and "Shaft is off center." threads. I was fortunate enough to have a bad engine to mess up on, then do it right on my good engine (Pinned at TDC and no set screws).
This is a good guide with pictures. (I think it was made by another Forum member.):

porsche service boxster ims bearing repair install 986 diy tutorial Intermediate Shaft Bearing Replacement and Upgrade (IMS) Step by Step Replacement Guide - MIKE'S SPECIALTY AUTOMOTIVE SERVICE****Specializing in Porsche

Wow, now that's some nicely put procedure. Nice find.

He makes it look like I'd be able to do this myself (I think), at home, in the driveway, kids toying and screaming around and all. Too Easy! Nice write up for sure

He said "Overnight" in the freezer? would 120min at subzero temp suffice, no?! Metal conductivity is tad faster than meat or tissues I think loll

[Viper10000]

I do have a few assorted triple square bits so I'm good there. I put the bearing in the freezer last night. I will try to do this project without removing the rear bumper, we will see how it goes. I am also wondering, do I really need to remove the wheel axle to hub bolts? The torque spec in the Bentley manual is 340 ft/lbs. Thats A LOT of torque. anyone remove a 5 speed transmission without doing this? I just finished my morning coffee and am about to get started. Thanks again everyone! Keep the info coming!

[jsceash]

Originally Posted by Viper10000

I do have a few assorted triple square bits so I'm good there. I put the bearing in the freezer last night. I will try to do this project without removing the rear bumper, we will see how it goes. I am also wondering, do I really need to remove the wheel axle to hub bolts? The torque spec in the Bentley manual is 340 ft/lbs. Thats A LOT of torque. anyone remove a 5 speed transmission without doing this? I just finished my morning coffee and am about to get started. Thanks again everyone! Keep the info coming!

Agreed removing the axles totally from the hubs is not needed. Collapsing the shaft to the outside will give you all the clearance you need.

[Viper10000]

I'm loving the Home Depot bucket giving me more confidence as I get started, lol.



This little transmission jack from Harbor Freight was great for this task!




My stopping point for the day.



I see a little oil...hmmmm...





Starting to make a mess in my garage.


Everything went well so far. I managed to leave the rear bumper on and the axles attached to the wheel bearings. I would have took more pictures but it was tough not getting grease and dirt everywhere. I'll try to take more when I get down to removing the pressure plate and flywheel. Thanks again everyone for the tips and advice!

[Viper10000]

So, as I am trying to set bank one to TDC, I am not sure as to which cam plug I should pull off for the cam lock tool. I have a 5-chain motor so I was planning on using the short lock. Does this lock go into the top or bottom cam shaft behind the passenger seat? Or should I just pull both plugs and put the longer cam lock on?

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by Viper10000

So, as I am trying to set bank one to TDC, I am not sure as to which cam plug I should pull off for the cam lock tool. I have a 5-chain motor so I was planning on using the short lock. Does this lock go into the top or bottom cam shaft behind the passenger seat? Or should I just pull both plugs and put the longer cam lock on?

http://www.imsretrofit.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/imsretrofit.pdf

[Viper10000]

Ok, I guess I'll pop the plug off the top cam shaft on bank one behind the passenger seat and lock the short cam lock there.