For frunk/trunk, most SPBs use traditional hood pins or Aerocatch. Personally, I have yet to do so; the factory latch works (I guess the question would be the weight if that small amount matters.) For using the factory latch without the stock interior latch releases, as you described you can just cut the release cable to length and make a pull loop at the end, with the length set to make the pull loop stick out at the edge of the lid, and a cable clamp or two to hold it in place. Heat shrink or plasti-dip on the loop is good.
See attached photos of how it ended up on my car. (I did not do this work myself.) In my opinion, if you install hood pins or Aerocatch, you can get rid of the stock latch -- the stock latch works as a primary without backup; it doesn't make sense to me for it to *be* a backup.
For door pulls, a similar thing is typically used. Just take the door pull cable, fashion some kind of loop/pull at a useful length end point, and use a cable clamp to hold the end in place. An alternative I've seen is to attach the forward end of the pull cable to the door, and then you would pull on the middle of the cable, which would have the effect of pulling on the latch end to release the latch.
I suppose if had my wish, Aerocatches would appear on my car one day and the factory latches removed. Low priority.
Frunk:
Trunk:
The sort of cable guide I'm talking about
:
Threaded Mode
