If anyone does decide to put the "kit" from Patrick's, make sure you don't install it like this picture from their web site...
Patrick Motorsports - 986 BSR # 17
I don't know what their instructions say, but if you plumb the check valve the way they did in that picture, you might as well just delete the check valve all together. They way they have it installed, it's never going to have a chance to act as a check valve because of how the oil flows. It's supposed to be on the other side (inlet) of the filter housing to function properly, but considering that most oil filters have an internal "one way baffle" the check valve is technically redundant IMO.
I've actually seen problems with these Canton check valves before. They are almost a "one time install" valve because they are made of brass pipe threads which actually expand slightly every time you tighten them. Do that one too many times and you can actually have issues with the internal valve mechanism not being able to open all the way causing a restriction. I've seen low oil pressure problems caused by this exact scenario. In most Accusump plumbing systems, I try to avoid using these check valves and let the internal oil filter check valve do it's job.
I'm actually a big fan of Accusump systems and especially the E.S.P. electric valve systems, but in order for them to be effective, the owner/driver of the car has to understand how the WHOLE system works.
Hybrid Mode
