Just hit a truck... Arghhhhh.

[911monty]

Could be lighting or perhaps from the accident, but that bushing in the control arm appears cracked and separating. You might want to examine the other side and replace both before the alignment. Also that control arm is very easy to replace. Once the car is on jack stands the control arm is simply 3 attachment points. The ball joint is where people have problems, but a good ball joint separator makes it easy work. OTC makes one around $50 and you have a new tool.

I use this style separator. All force is inline with the ball joint shaft unlike the reverse plier style.
https://www.amazon.com/Astro-Tools-78912-Profile-Separator/dp/B01JBJS80E/ref=asc_df_B01JBJS80E/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=598232285253&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8763142176994705086&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1013559&hvtargid=pla-1661491437333&psc=1

[Starter986]

Originally Posted by 911monty

Could be lighting or perhaps from the accident, but that bushing in the control arm appears cracked and separating. You might want to examine the other side and replace both before the alignment. Also that control arm is very easy to replace. Once the car is on jack stands the control arm is simply 3 attachment points. The ball joint is where people have problems, but a good ball joint separator makes it easy work. OTC makes one around $50 and you have a new tool.

I use this style separator. All force is inline with the ball joint shaft unlike the reverse plier style.
https://www.amazon.com/Astro-Tools-78912-Profile-Separator/dp/B01JBJS80E/ref=asc_df_B01JBJS80E/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=598232285253&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8763142176994705086&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1013559&hvtargid=pla-1661491437333&psc=1

Thanks for the heads up. When the sun comes up this morning I'll go take a peek at the bushing. You recommend replacing both arms... is that because you suspect that the bushing on the other side, passenger, likely is in the same shape?

On another note... the joint seperator... what do you think of thisd part from Harbior Freight...

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html

And... the three points connection. We've got the control arm link. I just remove the nut/bolt connecting it to the control arm... and let it hang there while waiting to install the new arm? That link doesn't have to be completely removed from the car, correct? Then remove the nut/bolt/ball joint... the the bolt/nut that connects it to the car frame, correct. I've replaced the water pump... AOS, motor mount, etc... general basic maintenance, and this job doesn't look terrible. I just don't want to "get into it" and find myself buried with some headache.

I've looked at the mess... and it looks pretty straightforward. My concern is that I remove the control arm and then, when reassembling with the new part... holes don't line up my a fraction of a milimeter, causing me headache. I really don't want to have to run to harbior freight/home depot and purchasing a come-along to get the holes to align. If I take my time, examining and being deliberate... and assuming the harbor fright tool (if you don't have a problem with it) properly works... I see a 2 hour job.

If I do it myself it saves me the tow fee (that $$$ covers the new part and the new tool). The part will arrive Thursday. The car will be delievered to the mechanic, 30 miles away in Palm Springs, on Thursday morning. I expect the part will be delivered to my home later that day. I then have to run the part to Palm Springs... but that will be Friday morning. The whole mess is a mini logistics hassle.

However, depending upon which direction I am encouraged to take (self-repair) and my level of confidence (no surprises... a "f**k" moment that causes a huge hassle) I may bang it out in my driveway.

Thank you.
Watcha think?

[Starter986]

Originally Posted by 911monty

Could be lighting or perhaps from the accident, but that bushing in the control arm appears cracked and separating. You might want to examine the other side and replace both before the alignment. Also that control arm is very easy to replace. Once the car is on jack stands the control arm is simply 3 attachment points. The ball joint is where people have problems, but a good ball joint separator makes it easy work. OTC makes one around $50 and you have a new tool.

I use this style separator. All force is inline with the ball joint shaft unlike the reverse plier style.
https://www.amazon.com/Astro-Tools-78912-Profile-Separator/dp/B01JBJS80E/ref=asc_df_B01JBJS80E/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=598232285253&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8763142176994705086&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1013559&hvtargid=pla-1661491437333&psc=1

This tool looks similar to the one you recommended. Free loaner. I'm thinking of giving it an attempt. Your thoughts?

https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/loaner-tie-rod-end-puller/p/oemtools-tie-rod-end-remover/409628_0_0

Thank you.

[Luckyman01]

From your post history, I believe you can do this

[911monty]

Originally Posted by Starter986

This tool looks similar to the one you recommended. Free loaner. I'm thinking of giving it an attempt. Your thoughts?

https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/loaner-tie-rod-end-puller/p/oemtools-tie-rod-end-remover/409628_0_0

Thank you.

You got this.

That OEM loaner tool is the exact tool I recommended in my first post. For the price is easily worth having, especially since down the road you'll probably be doing the rears also.The harbor Freight style are not worth having.

Your basic concept is correct on the removal process couple things that cause problems are.

1. Once on jackstands and wheels off Mark the camber adjustment with a sharpie to get back to close for alignment, or set back to the middle mark when reassembling as this will give an indication of chassis square since this is the mark used when the car is originally assembled. Break all nuts at the 3 attachment points.

2. The ball joint stem is a taper fit and can rotate when removing the nut so completely remove the nut on the ball joint before pressing out. The spring is in full extension and restrained by the strut and will not drop any further. Obvious since yours is broken I simply mention in case someone else down the road uses this for removal.

3. Remove the control arm to frame bolt and adjuster. Remove the strut to bushing and work control arm pieces out.

4. Reverse steps to reassemble. As mentioned the friction of the nut on the ball joint will rotate the ball joint stem. Place your jack under the ball joint and jack up until the ball joint fully seats in the hub carrier and the strut just begins to compress. This should give enough friction to tighten the nut.

Torque to spec.

Enjoy having 2 new control arms and the experience!

[Gilles]

Most likely I have a set of used coffin arms on the garage, they came out of my 987CS, but you first should check if they are interchangeable with the ones on your car.
I believe that you live near Palm Springs, if you pay for the gas (and a beer afterwards.. ), I could help you to replace them, I don't live to far from you (92886) at this time I am currently unemployed and recovering from knee surgery... so you will have to help :-)

[78F350]

Originally Posted by 911monty

You got this. ...

Torque to spec.

...

[Starter986]

Fellas,

Thank you for the words of encouragement, and offers. Gilles, you're right next door. We'll have to get together one time.

I got into the car today thinking I would help out my mechanic by removing at least the broken piece attached to the chassis. LOL, I don't have the proper tool. Socket won't work, and wrenches I have are too small. I could go to Harbor Freight for a one-off... but already I've made arrangements for the tow... the Pelican part will be here tomorrow... and my mechanic will have the car Friday morning. Likely I'll get it back before Noon that day.

I know the repair isn't rocket science. I know that I should be doing this in pairs and some other "while you're in there" stuff. So... I'm going to start nickel and diming the front and rear suspension parts (like so many others have done) and then go all in for a suspension refresh.

If I had more time I'd take you up on your offer, Gilles. My PT job, and my regular self-employment obligations, simply don't align with what I really want to do (self repair). Next time.

By the way... I'm goint to post the pother three wheels and tires for sale. In a moment...

Thank you!!!!