Oil filler leak...this one's got JFP written all over it!

[Frodo]

Have been prepping to do WP/t'stat AND coolant tank replacement all in one fell swoop. Car's got 109k on it, so if we're draining the coolant to do one, might as well do both. What's held us up lately is the car is at my son's house and his wife had emergency (but apparently very successful) surgery a few days ago and I, for obvious reasons, want to stay out of their hair for a few days.

While reading the description of the tank replacement, it became obvious we're dealing (through major design fault some would say) with the oil filler tube/hose in the process. That triggered a memory from several years ago when I took the boxster in to a dealership to get some service or other done (ignition lock cylinder maybe?) and I asked the tech to do a once over to give me recommendations as to what she could use done. One of the things that came back to me was his mention that the oil filler tube/hose was seeping a little. I don't remember if he used the word tube or hose in his description. But anyway, in that we're going to be there anyway, it only seemed to make sense to replace it. (It's not really been much of a problem: the only time I have to add oil is annually when I change it. So there's not a lot of leakage—still, might as well fix it when doing this job.)

My problem, as is typical, is that I don't know what to order until we're well underway, and at that point one is kind of behind the eight ball ordering it then. My sense is that leakage in this area is probably nearly always for the hose, within the engine bay, the part that has the accordion pleats in it. So my question is just that: when there's a leak from the oil filler tubing, is it invariably in that part (shown below as part #15)? Or is that just one of a few places leaks develop?

[blue62]

Originally Posted by Frodo

Have been prepping to do WP/t'stat AND coolant tank replacement all in one fell swoop. Car's got 109k on it, so if we're draining the coolant to do one, might as well do both. What's held us up lately is the car is at my son's house and his wife had emergency (but apparently very successful) surgery a few days ago and I, for obvious reasons, want to stay out of their hair for a few days.

While reading the description of the tank replacement, it became obvious we're dealing (through major design fault some would say) with the oil filler tube/hose in the process. That triggered a memory from several years ago when I took the boxster in to a dealership to get some service or other done (ignition lock cylinder maybe?) and I asked the tech to do a once over to give me recommendations as to what she could use done. One of the things that came back to me was his mention that the oil filler tube/hose was seeping a little. I don't remember if he used the word tube or hose in his description. But anyway, in that we're going to be there anyway, it only seemed to make sense to replace it. (It's not really been much of a problem: the only time I have to add oil is annually when I change it. So there's not a lot of leakage—still, might as well fix it when doing this job.)

My problem, as is typical, is that I don't know what to order until we're well underway, and at that point one is kind of behind the eight ball ordering it then. My sense is that leakage in this area is probably nearly always for the hose, within the engine bay, the part that has the accordion pleats in it. So my question is just that: when there's a leak from the oil filler tubing, is it invariably in that part (shown below as part #15)? Or is that just one of a few places leaks develop?

damn double post

[blue62]

Originally Posted by Frodo

Have been prepping to do WP/t'stat AND coolant tank replacement all in one fell swoop. Car's got 109k on it, so if we're draining the coolant to do one, might as well do both. What's held us up lately is the car is at my son's house and his wife had emergency (but apparently very successful) surgery a few days ago and I, for obvious reasons, want to stay out of their hair for a few days.

While reading the description of the tank replacement, it became obvious we're dealing (through major design fault some would say) with the oil filler tube/hose in the process. That triggered a memory from several years ago when I took the boxster in to a dealership to get some service or other done (ignition lock cylinder maybe?) and I asked the tech to do a once over to give me recommendations as to what she could use done. One of the things that came back to me was his mention that the oil filler tube/hose was seeping a little. I don't remember if he used the word tube or hose in his description. But anyway, in that we're going to be there anyway, it only seemed to make sense to replace it. (It's not really been much of a problem: the only time I have to add oil is annually when I change it. So there's not a lot of leakage—still, might as well fix it when doing this job.)

My problem, as is typical, is that I don't know what to order until we're well underway, and at that point one is kind of behind the eight ball ordering it then. My sense is that leakage in this area is probably nearly always for the hose, within the engine bay, the part that has the accordion pleats in it. So my question is just that: when there's a leak from the oil filler tubing, is it invariably in that part (shown below as part #15)? Or is that just one of a few places leaks develop?

Yes that is the most likely section of oil filler pipe that gets leaks.
it passes right under the edge of the rear engine bay bulkhead.
It passes very close to the bottom edge of the bulk head and many times it rubs on the metal edge.
Thus causing small holes in the top side of the pipe.
Since the crankcase is under a slight vacuum you will also have a slight vacuum leak if the hose has a hole in it or is leaking at the connections with the other two sections of pipe. #14 and #16
But you don't loose very much oil because the holes are usually on top of the pipe and it is under slight vacuum.

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by Frodo

Have been prepping to do WP/t'stat AND coolant tank replacement all in one fell swoop. Car's got 109k on it, so if we're draining the coolant to do one, might as well do both. What's held us up lately is the car is at my son's house and his wife had emergency (but apparently very successful) surgery a few days ago and I, for obvious reasons, want to stay out of their hair for a few days.

While reading the description of the tank replacement, it became obvious we're dealing (through major design fault some would say) with the oil filler tube/hose in the process. That triggered a memory from several years ago when I took the boxster in to a dealership to get some service or other done (ignition lock cylinder maybe?) and I asked the tech to do a once over to give me recommendations as to what she could use done. One of the things that came back to me was his mention that the oil filler tube/hose was seeping a little. I don't remember if he used the word tube or hose in his description. But anyway, in that we're going to be there anyway, it only seemed to make sense to replace it. (It's not really been much of a problem: the only time I have to add oil is annually when I change it. So there's not a lot of leakage—still, might as well fix it when doing this job.)

My problem, as is typical, is that I don't know what to order until we're well underway, and at that point one is kind of behind the eight ball ordering it then. My sense is that leakage in this area is probably nearly always for the hose, within the engine bay, the part that has the accordion pleats in it. So my question is just that: when there's a leak from the oil filler tubing, is it invariably in that part (shown below as part #15)? Or is that just one of a few places leaks develop?

Yes, that is the correct part. A bit of a bugger to get at, but as you are doing the tank anyway, well worth replacing.

[Stl-986]

If they said it was seeping, they prob meant at the block. There is an o-ring on #16. Not all that difficult to replace, even with the intake in place. Just remove the cross over tubes and you will be able to get to it. If you are replacing #15, might as well replace #16.

[blue62]

I forgot to mention that these plastic hoses become brittle with age.
So with that in mind be gentle when disconnecting part #15 from #16 so you don't damage the connector part of #16. If you damage that connector you will either have to replace hose part #16 or figure out a way connect the two sections so you do not have a vacuum or oil leak.

[Frodo]

Thanks guys, I appreciate the guidance.

Originally Posted by Stl-986

If they said it was seeping, they prob meant at the block. There is an o-ring on #16. Not all that difficult to replace, even with the intake in place. Just remove the cross over tubes and you will be able to get to it. If you are replacing #15, might as well replace #16.

I don't for sure recall what verb he used. "Seeping"? "Leaking"? Just not sure. But I clearly recall him saying it was a very difficult job; I specifically remember him calling it a "real knuckle-buster." From that, and from what you say here, I get the impression the leak must involve the longer piece (ie part 15 in the diagram), since it would seem to be the much harder piece to free up and remove.

Now I just need to decide if I think I can get it off part 16 without breaking that part

[blue62]

Frodo
If section #16 is leaking at the O-ring or anyplace along the length of the oil fill pipe you will see a slight oily residue. The oily residue will cause the road dust and dirt to stick to the engine. If there is no oily residue you can blow the dust and dirt off with an air hose. So just by blowing you engine off you can tell if you have any leaks or not. If you have any oily residue you most certainly have vacuum leaks as well.

[Stl-986]

I dont think replacing #15 or #16 are all that difficult. With the SAI out of the way there is much more room. Removing the cross over tubs & the throttle body & things are easier to access. Of course, having the proper clamp removal tool makes it 100% times easier

With the crossover removed, follow #16 to the engine block, if you see any oil residue then the oring is bad. Given it's age though and since you are going to be in there anyway, might as well just replace it. It's a 50/50 on if the original plastic breaks on you anyway and better to have the part then have to wait for it.