Spark plugs

[Frodo]

Wanted to pick up some plugs and went to the local AZ. He said they didn't have the Bosch plugs I was asking about, but they did carry NGKs (which I have also heard good things about).

For the iridium plugs (which I lean towards) he said the part number was BKR6EIX. This is not one of the ones listed by Pelican Parts, but the "EIX" portion of it sounded familiar—like I read it somewhere here on the forum.

How does one know if this is a good choice for my car ('01 S) or if it just "fits"?

[Frodo]

Okay, well feel free to can that question...already bought them.

Another, that hopefully somebody can answer: These plugs (like so many things these days, Grrrrr) come with ZERO written instructions, just those oh-so-helpful pictures. The last pic seems to indicate we shouldn't mess with the gap.

I called where I bought them and asked if they should already be correctly pre-gapped and got the equally oh-so-helpful response, "Yeah, they should be." As always, I never have any idea how to interpret that. Could actually be, "Yeah they're gapped right, leave them alone." The other possibility: "I have no idea."

I checked one of them. Don't have a set of the nice feeler gages, just one of those circular guys that you insert into the gap and turn it until it's touching. It (Bentley) calls for 1.6 mm, which equals 0.063". On my gage, it looks to be significantly more narrow than that.

So, do I ignore the pictures and adjust it? Do I void the warranty if I do so? Should I invest in a nicer tool to measure the gap? And/or to adjust it?

Recommendations? TIA.

[blue62]

Originally Posted by Frodo

Okay, well feel free to can that question...already bought them.

Another, that hopefully somebody can answer: These plugs (like so many things these days, Grrrrr) come with ZERO written instructions, just those oh-so-helpful pictures. The last pic seems to indicate we shouldn't mess with the gap.

I called where I bought them and asked if they should already be correctly pre-gapped and got the equally oh-so-helpful response, "Yeah, they should be." As always, I never have any idea how to interpret that. Could actually be, "Yeah they're gapped right, leave them alone." The other possibility: "I have no idea."

I checked one of them. Don't have a set of the nice feeler gages, just one of those circular guys that you insert into the gap and turn it until it's touching. It (Bentley) calls for 1.6 mm, which equals 0.063". On my gage, it looks to be significantly more narrow than that.

So, do I ignore the pictures and adjust it? Do I void the warranty if I do so? Should I invest in a nicer tool to measure the gap? And/or to adjust it?

Recommendations? TIA.

You should "ALWAYS" check plug gap with the "correct tool" and make sure they are to spec.
To not do so is foolish and piss poor automotive methodology.

[Frodo]

Well...don't want to be guilty of piss poor auto methodology.

So why, pray tell, does NGK (and presumably other manufacturers) tell us NOT to do that?? With a big RED slash through the pic of someone doing exactly that? It makes zero sense to me. Why do they want to set their plugs (and themselves) up for failure??

A rhetorical question, probably, but one that needs to be asked..

[blue62]

Originally Posted by Frodo

Well...don't want to be guilty of piss poor auto methodology.

So why, pray tell, does NGK (and presumably other manufacturers) tell us NOT to do that?? With a big RED slash through the pic of someone doing exactly that? It makes zero sense to me. Why do they want to set their plugs (and themselves) up for failure??

A rhetorical question, probably, but one that needs to be asked..

Most likely because people today have lost touch with the simplest of mechanical ideas and tasks.
Let me ask a question or two.
How many miles have those plugs traveled from manufacture to your hands??
How many times have they been banged around? Dropped? handled?? moved???stocked??? restocked.???
All you have to do is drop one on your garage floor before installing it to close the gap on a spark plug.
Then what do you have?????? Improper gap!!!!....possible misfire!!!!... Then you have to pull the plug to try and figure out why you have a misfire. Then you need a new plug crush washer because crush washers are designed for one time use.
When all you had to do was verify the plug gap was to spec. before installing it.
Verifying things like plug gap can potentially save loads of tail chasing.

It is also proper automotive methodology.

[Frodo]

Ah...ignoring the 'human element' was I? Little pride in workmanship left I guess. Not the first time I've made that mistake..

I still find it curious: why is is that NGK (et al) don't take that into account as well? Why do they convey the impression that all's hunky dory, just pop these guys in and you/re good to go? Geez, the possibility these things have potentially been that beat up in transit is kind of disquieting.

Have done additional research, think I'm good to go at this point.

Thanks blue for the input..

[blue62]

Originally Posted by Frodo

Ah...ignoring the 'human element' was I? Little pride in workmanship left I guess. Not the first time I've made that mistake..

I still find it curious: why is is that NGK (et al) don't take that into account as well? Why do they convey the impression that all's hunky dory, just pop these guys in and you/re good to go? Geez, the possibility these things have potentially been that beat up in transit is kind of disquieting.

Have done additional research, think I'm good to go at this point.

Thanks blue for the input..

In the "old days" checking, cleaning and adjusting plug gap, point gap, point dwell and ignition timing every 30000-35000 miles was basic automotive maintenance.
If you didn't do it your car gradually ran worse and worse.
Computer engine management and modern materials have changed that to a large degree. But in the end an internal combustion engine is still very basic and one of it's most basic operating principals is proper fuel ignition ...Good spark..

[Frodo]

Thanks, blue. I didn't "live" them days (as in personally doing that stuff), but I did witness my fair share of it. My dad and my uncle, dad's brother, out in the garage with dirty hands and dirty fingernails, working together, under a drop light. "Points and plugs," timing light strobes, screwdriver carburetor adjustments, the whole works. All while my aunt and mother created a wonderful meal up in the kitchen.

Thanks for the words of wisdom, and the opportunity to relive moments of those bygone days.

May they be resting in peace—my dad (and his brother) would laugh at me getting all wrapped around the axle at something as simple as changing spark plugs..

[Gilles]

Originally Posted by blue62

How many times have they been banged around? Dropped? handled?? moved???stocked??? restocked.???

The expensive, fancy plugs (iridium, platinum, etc.,) usually have the cardbox ring that protects the bottom of the plug, I assumed that for that reason the factory gap settings remain on the plugs, perhaps not?
.

[blue62]

Originally Posted by Gilles

The expensive, fancy plugs (iridium, platinum, etc.,) usually have the cardbox ring that protects the bottom of the plug, I assumed that for that reason the factory gap settings remain on the plugs, perhaps not?
.

Well I will say it again. To fail to do something as simple as varifying proper plug gap before installing them is foolish and piss poor methodology.

But do what you wish.

[Stl-986]

Doesnt really matter though if you checked the gap or not, you didn't get the right plugs. I would pull them and put in the proper plugs that are NOT iridium. You will end up with misfires at some point so just expect it.

As far as checking gap...Always check on 1 prong plugs. 4 prong are harder without the proper tool but should be checked just as a piece of mind.

Virtually all plugs come with the paper around the plug even cheap ones. It's to protect the plug not necessarily the gap.

[Frodo]

Originally Posted by Stl-986

Doesnt really matter though if you checked the gap or not, you didn't get the right plugs. I would pull them and put in the proper plugs that are NOT iridium. You will end up with misfires at some point so just expect it.

As far as checking gap...Always check on 1 prong plugs. 4 prong are harder without the proper tool but should be checked just as a piece of mind.

Virtually all plugs come with the paper around the plug even cheap ones. It's to protect the plug not necessarily the gap.

Okay, the guy behind the counter looks it up. These plugs are made to be used in the 2001 Boxster S car that I drive (and presumably other vehicles out there as well). Other NGKs are specified for use in this car as well, per Pelican Parts. Iridiums are quality plugs. Pray tell, WHY would these be the wrong plugs?

Is NGK some fly-by-night company producing inferior products they haphazardly tout will work in certain specified vehicles, knowing that in fact they actually WON'T work in those vehicles (or at least recklessly not caring one way or the other)?
I'm no expert in this area, but I sure wouldn't think so. From what I've read and gathered they seem pretty reputable.

That makes zero sense to me. What's the basis for your statement? Have you personally actually installed these plugs into a 2001 986S and tried them out??

[Frodo]

If these are inappropriate plugs for my vehicle, someone better tell Pelican Parts. They even specify them as being OEM.

[paulofto]

I have had NGK Iridium’s in my Boxster for 6 years and ~40k km without a single misfire. I did have the occasional mis with the original Beru’s which led me to go with the NGKs. I’m also on my original coils which have no cracks. Engine is smooth as silk.

[Stl-986]

Just case it says they work doesn't mean they do. Do a search on iridium plugs on here & other locations. Lots of conversations about them. Had the same plugs and within 10k miles started getting misfires. Put in Bosch & no more misfires. Also had an 03 that threw misfires cause the PO had put Iridium plugs in. Did this in the middle of a 2800 mile road trip.

Beru's also are known to cause occasional misfires.

Keep in mind parts store lookups go by cross referencing and are not always accurate. Some things are Ok to go with non oem...spark plugs & coils are ones that are not.

[JFP in PA]

There are absolutely no valid reasons why you cannot use iridium plugs in these cars, we do it all the time, never had an issue. I have a set of Denso Iridium TT IK20TT (4702) in my personal car, gapped at 0.040; car loves them.

[Frodo]

Whereas I used to be fearful of DIY projects (and sometimes still am), these days what often makes me more anxious is figuring out replacement equipment, dealing with the typical insanity that goes along with part numbers, inconsistencies with same from website to website, etc.

Conceivably a mistake, but I got my plugs at Advanced Auto. I decided I wanted Iridium—the guy looked it up for my vehicle and came up with NGK BRK6EIX 6418. So I got them. We (my son & I) are part way through installing them when we quit yesterday. In my typical ass-backward fashion, I later that evening happened to find myself at the Pelican Parts site.

It’s weird: If I search “BKR6EIX” (what I got at Adv Auto), I get 4 results. The first 3 of these also have additional identifiers (Like Part # 55-571-391-M220, Part # 55-571-391-M271, etc). But none, they say, will fit my Boxster (‘01S). There is ONE, the 4th, that does fit: BKR-6-EIX-INT Unlike the first 3, it does not have any additional identifiers. It’s simply BKR-6-EIX-INT. I was concerned in that the 3 plugs Pelican Parts says won’t fit all have “6418” appended in parentheses at the end of the BKR-6-EIX (ie not “-INT”). The ones I bought the other day, based on the guy’s computer readout, have “BKR6EIX 6418” stamped on the ends of the boxes. Out of curiosity I checked AutoZone on the matter, and it agreed with Advanced Auto: the 6418 version should work just fine for my car.

So the question naturally becomes: Does one trust the more generic AutoZone and Advanced Auto Parts recommendations (6418 will work in the Box) or does one trust the more German car-oriented Pelican Parts site that says 6418 will not work well for my vehicle? I was leaning ever-so-slightly towards Pelican, but then I looked around some more. Got onto the NDK page, found the BKR6EIX 6418 plug; then got onto the Bosch page, found the page on the plug that I had had in my vehicle for many years. Both indicated unequivocally that their respective plugs were suited for my car just fine; with the Bosch I had totally figured that out already! I then compared the specs for both and while there wasn’t absolute correlation, when it came to size/shape numbers and heat range, they were identical.

Soooo, I changed my mind, going with the NGK website data and fitment recommendations for the plugs I just bought. Could that be a “wrong” move? Don’t know, but (at this point!) I’m happy with my decision. As my son said, and I currently agree, Pelican is just wrong when it comes to the 6418 declaration that they’re inappropriate for my vehicle. Could we be wrong on that? Sure, totally possible. But do I risk hundreds of $$ and the need to drop the engine to fix it if we are wrong? Certainly not. Well under $100, and a couple hours labor. Onward! We’ll see what happens!

Thanks to everyone for their input!

[casioqv]

I ended up getting a set of NGK iridium plugs for my 2000 Boxster as the default plug that came up from an online parts supplier... after reading a bunch of forums, I couldn't find any good information on people using them, and a few negative comments online so I ended up just going back and getting factory copper plugs. I'd guess they work fine, but it's sort of an experiment, as there doesn't seem to be a lot of reports about them on the forums, and they aren't what the cars came with new.

[pilot4fn]

These work fantastic on my 2001 with 2.7 engine and manual transmission: NGK BKR6EQUP

Never miss a beat on street as well or at the track.:dance:

P.S. Currently approx 12.000 miles on those

[JayG]

You will see different spark plugs that work. In addition to different styles, they are different heat ranges.