1997 Porsche Boxster died while driving.

[xX2pro4uXx20]

I was driving the car and it was fine until I came up to a stop light and once the RPM'S dropped, the car died in neutral. I went to start the car but it wouldn't start. I did get it to start whenever I pressed the gas and tried to start it and it didn't die as long as I kept the RPM'S up. The temp gauge had been flashing for a couple days so I checked the coolant and it was indeed very low so I figured it had overheated and it couldn't start because it was heat soaked. The temperature was past the 0 in 180. I made it back home and I waited about and hour and I went back out and it still won't start. I did find a leaked coming from a tube that isn't connected to anything. And doesn't look like it could be connected to anything. My car is a 1997 Porsche Boxster with a manual. If you have any questions that could help you diagnose the problem then let me know. I also did an one 2 test and It came back with p0117 I believe it was. The one that indicated something wrong with the coolant temperature sensor.

[Stl-986]

I would get it to a shop and have it looked at.

[xX2pro4uXx20]

Little update: so the car starts but it dies immediately. Unless I feather the gas. Whenever it does die, there is the sound of air escaping but I'm not sure if it's supposed to do that or not

[Stl-986]

Still suggest getting it to a shop for a diagnostic.

[78F350]

+1 to what Stl said. If you aren't even sure where to start, having a shop look at it is probably best. There are lots of possibilities at this point; some not so bad and some very bad. You can make things worse and a lot more expensive if you don't know what you are doing. Driving the car (if you can) may make things get worse.

Running the car for a "couple days" with the low coolant light flashing could very well cause the engine to be sad or angry. Adding coolant after the engine is damaged will make the light stop blinking, but will not make the engine happy again.

I don't think we can be of much help without being there to work on the car, but if you want to answer questions:

Was it running *well* to begin with?

Was the leak from the tube that wasn't connected to anything watery like coolant or oily like oil? Where on the car is the tube?

What have you done to it in the last few months for maintenance and repair?

Have you seen the engine oil and filter? What does it look like?

How many miles are on the car and how has it been maintained in the past?

Would a $500 repair be doable? How about $1,000? A good Porsche shop probably can't fix much for less than $1,000, but they can give you an idea of what needs to be done.

[ike84]

Pro, this is no bueno. These blocks are aluminum and do not tolerate overheating. As has already been said, the list of things that could be wrong at this point is extensive and its nearly impossible to help with via the interwebs if you're not familiar with the cars internals. Flat bed it to a shop asap - I promise that you're not doing yourself any favors by trying to get it started in the driveway.

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[xX2pro4uXx20]

Originally Posted by 78F350

+1 to what Stl said. If you aren't even sure where to start, having a shop look at it is probably best. There are lots of possibilities at this point; some not so bad and some very bad. You can make things worse and a lot more expensive if you don't know what you are doing. Driving the car (if you can) may make things get worse.

Running the car for a "couple days" with the low coolant light flashing could very well cause the engine to be sad or angry. Adding coolant after the engine is damaged will make the light stop blinking, but will not make the engine happy again.

I don't think we can be of much help without being there to work on the car, but if you want to answer questions:

Was it running *well* to begin with?

Was the leak from the tube that wasn't connected to anything watery like coolant or oily like oil? Where on the car is the tube?

What have you done to it in the last few months for maintenance and repair?

Have you seen the engine oil and filter? What does it look like?

How many miles are on the car and how has it been maintained in the past?

Would a $500 repair be doable? How about $1,000? A good Porsche shop probably can't fix much for less than $1,000, but they can give you an idea of what needs to be done.

I'll answer your questions in order.

1. Yeah it was running fine before that. I had drivin it to play some basketball and I didn't have any problems and I also didn't have any problems the day before driving it for over an hour.

2. It was watery. Basically exactly like water and the tube it right beside the right rear tire.

3. I haven't done anything to it besides cosmetic stuff so far. I bought it about a month and a half ago

4. The oil looks fine. That's one of the first things I checked whenever I bought the car.

5. The car has 120k miles and I'm not sure of the maintainance history. The guy said it had been sitting for many years but the title and the paperwork I got with the car says otherwise.

My thinking is maybe the fuel pump? It runs fine as long as I keep the RPM'S up myself but if I take my foot off the gas then it just dies. It doesn't sputter like it's trying to keep it going it just drops to 0. Or it could be a vacuum leak. I did notice while driving it that sometimes if I shifted at higher speeds into neutral, it would hold the RPM'S for a long time, until I got to around 10 miles an hour, the it would drop down to normal idle rpm. I disconnected the MAF sensor and there was no change and I disconnected the battery and there was no change.

[xX2pro4uXx20]

This is the tube here. The liquid coming out is a light green and is like water so i would think it's coolant.

[BYprodriver]

Originally Posted by xX2pro4uXx20

This is the tube here. The liquid coming out is a light green and is like water so i would think it's coolant.

I bet your coolant tank cracked, See if your trunk is wet.

[xX2pro4uXx20]

Originally Posted by BYprodriver

I bet your coolant tank cracked, See if your trunk is wet.

The trunk itself isn't but there is some near the coolant cap like in the area that is for the engine oil and the dip stick and the coolant cap and there was some on the under side of the trunk lid above that same area. Could have just been condensation though.

[paulofto]

Check your coolant cap. Make sure it is the latest version ending in 04. Older ones are known to fail at the relief spring and erase coolant well below the proper pressure.

[RobT987]

It could also be the bleeder valve.

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[Stl-986]

Did you remove the carpet AND the foam under it or just feel the carpet?

[xX2pro4uXx20]

Originally Posted by paulofto

Check your coolant cap. Make sure it is the latest version ending in 04. Older ones are known to fail at the relief spring and erase coolant well below the proper pressure.

The cap on my car ends in 00

[xX2pro4uXx20]

Originally Posted by Stl-986

Did you remove the carpet AND the foam under it or just feel the carpet?

I can take out the foam too if I have too. I filled it up yesterday and it doesn't seem to have lost any coolant since then

[blue62]

The hose in your picture is the coolant overflow hose.
So with the engine overheating the hose is doing what it is supposed to do.
Venting expanding coolant.
The best way to diagnose coolant systems issues is with a coolant system pressure tester.
Harbor Freight has them for reasonable price.

Sounds like either your coolant overflow tank, the bleeder valve or the coolant cap is toast.

Your P0117 code is telling you that the DME/ECU is not getting a signal from the coolant temp. Sensor.

When you do get it started and running at higher RPM does it run smooth or rough????
What is the Lowest RPM you can keep it running at? and how does it run?? smooth or Rough.

Doubtful that it is a fuel pump issue.
If a fuel pump cannot supply enough fuel at low demand=idle... it is very doubtful that it can supply enough fuel at higher demand.
As when you give it gas and it runs.

[xX2pro4uXx20]

Originally Posted by blue62

The hose in your picture is the coolant overflow hose.
So with the engine overheating the hose is doing what it is supposed to do.
Venting expanding coolant.
The best way to diagnose coolant systems issues is with a coolant system pressure tester.
Harbor Freight has them for reasonable price.

Sounds like either your coolant overflow tank, the bleeder valve or the coolant cap is toast.

Your P0117 code is telling you that the DME/ECU is not getting a signal from the coolant temp. Sensor.

When you do get it started and running at higher RPM does it run smooth or rough????
What is the Lowest RPM you can keep it running at? and how does it run?? smooth or Rough.

Doubtful that it is a fuel pump issue.
If a fuel pump cannot supply enough fuel at low demand=idle... it is very doubtful that it can supply enough fuel at higher demand.
As when you give it gas and it runs.

It runs very smooth. The lowest rpm I can keep it at is around 800-1000 and it runs fine there. I was also thinking that maybe it's the idle air control valve? Could it be that?

[blue62]

Originally Posted by xX2pro4uXx20

It runs very smooth. The lowest rpm I can keep it at is around 800-1000 and it runs fine there. I was also thinking that maybe it's the idle air control valve? Could it be that?

Yes it sounds like the Idle Air Control Valve is not working.
The air escaping sound your hearing when the engine dies is most likely air trying to get past the closed throttle plate. That is happening because the IACV is not allowing air past the throttle plate at throttle plate closed position.

But I am just guessing.

You say it runs smooth at around 800-1000 RPM... A vacuum leak big enough to stall the engine at idle would most likely cause rough running at 800-1000 RPM and get smoother the higher the RPM went.

IACV is pretty simple you can do a search here on the forum and find info on cleaning them.
So I would start with the IACV
Lets us know how you go

[paulofto]

Originally Posted by xX2pro4uXx20

The cap on my car ends in 00

Okay, it’s a ~$15.00 part. Replacing it won’t solve all your issues but it’s a start.

[xX2pro4uXx20]

Alright. I took out the idle air control valve and the throttle body just because and I cleaned them both since they were very dirty and now it starts and runs just fine. Thank you for the help