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Old 08-11-2020, 03:05 PM   #1
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Drop Link bolt stuck and I'm out of ideas

Rear drop link on passenger side. The smooth bolt through the wheel carrier is beyond stuck. I removed the socket from the ball side and I can get an impact on the nut type section below the ball. The bolt will turn with an impact wrench on it. It will not budge to move out. I've tried heat, cans of liquid wrench, wd 40, hammer, bigger hammer, biggerer hammer, tried getting a gear puller on it.

No joy. I am completely out of luck ....... it's now day 4......

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Old 08-11-2020, 03:26 PM   #2
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It looks like this is not uncommon, although I haven't tried on mine. You said it turns with an impact? Does the bolt spin with the nut? If so you may have to cut it off on the nut side or try to get a wrench or visegrips on the other side to hold it.

Someone else had a similar issue, but he was able to get the nut off, the bolt was stuck:
http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-general-discussions/47796-rear-drop-links-help.html
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Old 08-11-2020, 03:46 PM   #3
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Nut came off from the thread end with no issue. It's literally the smooth bolt through the wheel carrier where it is stuck. I previously confirmed that the entire bolt turns with the impact wrench.
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Old 08-11-2020, 04:13 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2ata View Post
Nut came off from the thread end with no issue. It's literally the smooth bolt through the wheel carrier where it is stuck. I previously confirmed that the entire bolt turns with the impact wrench.
See if one of there will fit over it:
https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html

If the bolt turns, all you should need some pressure to push it out while you hit it with the impact. The problem you're having now is that while the impact turns it, there's no pressure to pull it out. Actually the impact is probably applying force that keeps it in. You need pressure from the other side to push it out. Maybe this tool will help. It may even push it out without the impact.
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Old 08-11-2020, 05:23 PM   #5
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Cut off wheel.
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Old 08-11-2020, 05:45 PM   #6
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Cut off wheel.
That would help if the nut is stuck on the bolt and the bolt free-spins in the housing. He has the opposite problem. The nut is off. The bolt is stuck in the housing. He'll need to push the bolt out while turning it with the impact.
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Old 08-11-2020, 06:12 PM   #7
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Ah, I see he can't get the bolt that affixes the link to the strut/spindle.


Use a ball joint press or a c-clamp. Put a socket on the one side to give an area of recess and a punch on the other end to drive it through.

Air hammer helps.
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Old 08-11-2020, 06:19 PM   #8
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I had one stuck once and used my torch, red hot then cooled with ice, two cycles. Came right out when I twisted with a wrench.


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Old 08-11-2020, 06:25 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Qingdao View Post
Ah, I see he can't get the bolt that affixes the link to the strut/spindle.


Use a ball joint press or a c-clamp. Put a socket on the one side to give an area of recess and a punch on the other end to drive it through.

Air hammer helps.
I suggested the ball joint press, but I like the C-clamp and socket idea better!
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Old 08-11-2020, 06:34 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by piper6909 View Post
See if one of there will fit over it:
https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html

If the bolt turns, all you should need some pressure to push it out while you hit it with the impact. The problem you're having now is that while the impact turns it, there's no pressure to pull it out. Actually the impact is probably applying force that keeps it in. You need pressure from the other side to push it out. Maybe this tool will help. It may even push it out without the impact.
Sorry... I miss links sometimes.


If the OP loosens the toe control arm link (??? Correct term??) and the CV axle he'll be able to twist the strut. That'll give him a better angle on the bolt so he can strike it; like hitting a home run.
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Old 08-11-2020, 08:24 PM   #11
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Lots of PB Blaster, and get it spinning with the impact gun. Spray again, and spin opposite direction. Once you spin it a few times in both directions, the corrosion should loosen up and you can back it out........ both of my rear shocks had this problem...... 20 years in New England.....

-Eric
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Old 08-12-2020, 03:05 AM   #12
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I'll have to try the C clamp this evening.


Heat, cool, and lube were all a no go in any combination. Impact wrench and a Hulk smash BFH when applied together offered nothing.
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Old 08-12-2020, 09:24 AM   #13
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If I understand your issue, have you jacked the wheel carrier up, or let it down, at the LCA ball joint to change the angle? It could be bound up (binded?) due to the non alignment of the holes at the other end where the offending bolt is. The bolt could spin, but not release.
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Old 08-12-2020, 10:02 AM   #14
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The corrosion builds up on the middle of the bolt, keeping it from sliding out...... I had the best luck with the impact gun spinning the bolt to "grind" off the corrosion.... it did take a little while though.

-Eric

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Old 08-12-2020, 10:05 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by morgal48 View Post
If I understand your issue, have you jacked the wheel carrier up, or let it down, at the LCA ball joint to change the angle? It could be bound up (binded?) due to the non alignment of the holes at the other end where the offending bolt is. The bolt could spin, but not release.
Yes I have tried jacking it up, down, every which way without any advantage.
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Old 08-12-2020, 02:59 PM   #16
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Get some ATF and some Acetone.
Mix 50/50.
shake the hell out of it. (each time you use it) and saturate the bolt as often as you can over a 24 hour period.
get a muffler gun. (Air operated impact gun) fitted with a punch.

Cheap at Harbor freight.

You should have very little problem driving it out with a muffler gun.
Especially since you can turn it.


Last edited by blue62; 08-12-2020 at 03:02 PM.
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