Drop Link bolt stuck and I'm out of ideas
 

Rear drop link on passenger side. The smooth bolt through the wheel carrier is beyond stuck. I removed the socket from the ball side and I can get an impact on the nut type section below the ball. The bolt will turn with an impact wrench on it. It will not budge to move out. I've tried heat, cans of liquid wrench, wd 40, hammer, bigger hammer, biggerer hammer, tried getting a gear puller on it.

No joy. I am completely out of luck ....... it's now day 4......

It looks like this is not uncommon, although I haven't tried on mine. You said it turns with an impact? Does the bolt spin with the nut? If so you may have to cut it off on the nut side or try to get a wrench or visegrips on the other side to hold it.

Someone else had a similar issue, but he was able to get the nut off, the bolt was stuck:
http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-general-discussions/47796-rear-drop-links-help.html

Nut came off from the thread end with no issue. It's literally the smooth bolt through the wheel carrier where it is stuck. I previously confirmed that the entire bolt turns with the impact wrench.

See if one of there will fit over it:
https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html

If the bolt turns, all you should need some pressure to push it out while you hit it with the impact. The problem you're having now is that while the impact turns it, there's no pressure to pull it out. Actually the impact is probably applying force that keeps it in. You need pressure from the other side to push it out. Maybe this tool will help. It may even push it out without the impact.

Cut off wheel.

That would help if the nut is stuck on the bolt and the bolt free-spins in the housing. He has the opposite problem. The nut is off. The bolt is stuck in the housing. He'll need to push the bolt out while turning it with the impact.

Ah, I see he can't get the bolt that affixes the link to the strut/spindle.


Use a ball joint press or a c-clamp. Put a socket on the one side to give an area of recess and a punch on the other end to drive it through.

Air hammer helps. ;)

I had one stuck once and used my torch, red hot then cooled with ice, two cycles. Came right out when I twisted with a wrench.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I suggested the ball joint press, but I like the C-clamp and socket idea better!

Sorry... I miss links sometimes.


If the OP loosens the toe control arm link (??? Correct term??) and the CV axle he'll be able to twist the strut. That'll give him a better angle on the bolt so he can strike it; like hitting a home run.

Lots of PB Blaster, and get it spinning with the impact gun. Spray again, and spin opposite direction. Once you spin it a few times in both directions, the corrosion should loosen up and you can back it out........ both of my rear shocks had this problem...... 20 years in New England.....

-Eric

I'll have to try the C clamp this evening.


Heat, cool, and lube were all a no go in any combination. Impact wrench and a Hulk smash BFH when applied together offered nothing.

If I understand your issue, have you jacked the wheel carrier up, or let it down, at the LCA ball joint to change the angle? It could be bound up (binded?) due to the non alignment of the holes at the other end where the offending bolt is. The bolt could spin, but not release.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1597255179.jpg

The corrosion builds up on the middle of the bolt, keeping it from sliding out...... I had the best luck with the impact gun spinning the bolt to "grind" off the corrosion.... it did take a little while though.

-Eric

99 986
09 Cayman S

Yes I have tried jacking it up, down, every which way without any advantage.

Get some ATF and some Acetone.
Mix 50/50.
shake the hell out of it. (each time you use it) and saturate the bolt as often as you can over a 24 hour period.
get a muffler gun. (Air operated impact gun) fitted with a punch.

Cheap at Harbor freight.

You should have very little problem driving it out with a muffler gun.
Especially since you can turn it.

Bit of a thread resurrection here. I have had a titanic battle with removal of one of the front drop links on my 986S.Finally removed it this morning after numerous attempts, over several weeks. During that time I purchased an impact gun, heat gun, large hammer, decent hack saw and penetrating oil. All these new items played a part but the impact gun finally freed the stuck bolt. I then found it would turn freely but still not come out. Finally I managed. Trouble is now, I cannot get the new bolt in the hole, through the steering knuckle. There is a kind of metal plate obstructing the hole, roughly in the middle. I guess this was why the old bolt would not finally come out. I have pictures but it would not let me post then. Is my problem due to the angle it is jacked up at? I have it level at the front, jacked up on each side, both wheels off. I also tried with an extra small jack under the hub. Any ideas how to resolve this? Thanks in advance.

Metal plate you mention is most likely the shock absorber connection point that the bolt has to go thr. Try to push the schock body up or down to align the metal plate exactly right location to allow the bolt to go thru.
Here yuo can see the image of the metal plate on the shock absorber I mention above:
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/98633305131.htm?pn=986-333-051-31-M1012&SVSVSI=784&DID=5453

Also, place some anti seize paste (like copper paste etc.) on to the center section of the bolt, so it won't seize there again.

Thanks for the reply. Yes, what you describe is exactly what is causing the problem. Not getting any meaningful movement in the shock though. Maybe this is due to the part which is causing the obstruction, being badly out of shape now? I have tried prising it up, down or sideways by using a large screwdriver in the hole. Have resorted to trying to file the offending part away, but my file does not seem up to the job. I have done many jobs successfully on my Boxster but this has been my first foray into the world of suspension, pretty sure it will be my last too!
Definitely going with the copper slip, if I ever get the new part fitted.

If not done yet, spary some wd-40 etc penetrating oil to the connection between shock absorber and hub in a way that it flows down between those two parts and leave it for a while and then try again.

I'd advice not to pry the hub open from the slit where shock absorber metal plate goes in to the hub, since I have read that few people has cracked the hub doing that.