Lowering questions

[mipstien]

I am looking to refresh most, if not all of my suspension. I have owned the car for 6+ years so it needs it. I plan on going with coilovers.
This is just a fun car for me. I don't drive it very often. I want to lower it with the proper parts. I will probably lower it more than most people care to, but I still want it to be aligned correctly. Which brings me to my questions.

If the front coilover has camber plates what parts on the front need to be adjustable to keep it in spec?
What does the rear need to keep it in spec?
Any warnings going too low other than scraping and bottoming out? I use to daily a Spec Miata with Eibach coilovers which are super stiff. Any Info or advice is appreciated.

[Hasbro]

One of the active discussions, should answer your queries;
http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-racing-forum/66183-ride-height.html

[mipstien]

That helped but it didn't answer all of my questions.

Maybe someone can answer these.
Are adjustable lower control arms necessary?
Would they be required on the front with camber plates?

[maytag]

Originally Posted by mipstien

That helped but it didn't answer all of my questions.



Maybe someone can answer these.

Are adjustable lower control arms necessary?

Would they be required on the front with camber plates?

First, the disclaimer: I am not an alignment professional. ;-)

Just looking at how the parts interact with each other, we can anticipate how they respond to your goals.

Front:
You said your coilovers will have camber plates: adjustable? Or one- position? This is about your question with "aligned correctly". I can't say if you'll be within factory spec, but you haven't told us how low your going either, so that's only half my fault, Haha.
You will not need adjustable LCA's to simply lower the car. Because you're not using adjustable LCA's, your thrust arms should keep you within the intended "range" on caster.
There should be sufficient adjustability in your tie rods to get your toe in spec.
You'll likely need adjustable end links. (If that becomes necessary, I have two brand new sets of SPL Pro end links that I ended up not using.)

Rear;
I don't think you can get a camber plate up in there. Others may know better, but having installed coilovers recently, I can't imagine a canner plate fitting, nor the spring having room to offset like that. You'll probably need adjustable toe links. (Though you MIGHT find you're close enough with the stock adjustment available)
Again, probably need end links.

Something to consider: I lowered mine as much as I thought was prudent for track use. It's not as low as I'm sure you're considering. I'm as low as I think I can be and still allow the LCA to not go past horizontal. Once you go past horizontal, you're pulling the toe in, increasing understeer. I'm not sure you care for your use, but consider all of this as you determine your ride height.

I'm sure others will correct some of what I've told you. I'm not the pro, but I have been into mine very recently.

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[Gilles]

Originally Posted by mipstien

That helped but it didn't answer all of my questions.

Maybe someone can answer these.
Are adjustable lower control arms necessary?
Would they be required on the front with camber plates?

I know that you will need adjustable toe links for the rear axle, as the OEM will not have enough adjustment when lowered.

Out of curiosity, which coilovers are you considering?

[mipstien]

I haven't picked out the coilovers just yet. I am trying to get as much info as I can before dropping that kind of money.
I will probably stick with lowest I can get without going past horizontal as well. I still want to go have fun in the mountains.

Another thing to point out is this will be a dial it in setup. I plan to start low and dial it in from there. I expect to end up at a auto-x event at some point. So the ability to change the settings are a plus in the end.

[mipstien]

Originally Posted by maytag

You'll likely need adjustable end links. (If that becomes necessary, I have two brand new sets of SPL Pro end links that I ended up not using.)

Why did you not end up using the SPL end links? What did you end up going with?

[maytag]

Originally Posted by mipstien

Why did you not end up using the SPL end links? What did you end up going with?

An odd sort of circumstances, really; I've been collecting parts and hoarding them in my garage for months.... as sort of a classic misdirection effort to keep my wife from being able to add-up what I'm spending on this stuff... haha.

So I had one set of SPL end links on my desk when I decided to pull the trigger on some Ohlins coilovers and Tarrett bars front and rear. The package I purchased had two sets of end links in it, so I just bought it, thinking I'd be able to sell the spare set.

Then when installing, I discovered that the GT bar on the front requires a shorter end-link. Tarrett makes a short one specific to that application, so I bought that set for the front. leaving me with two new sets. (one set was installed, then removed without ever having been connected to the sway bar)

It's funny really, that the guys I bought the package from said that I'm the only one who has ever needed a shorter end-link, yet Tarrett makes an end-link JUST FOR THIS PURPOSE ON 986 cars. So. clearly I'm not the only one. hehe.

[mipstien]

Better watch yourself. That hoarding might end up making a race car.

[Gilles]

Originally Posted by maytag

Because you're not using adjustable LCA's, your thrust arms should keep you within the intended "range" on caster.

Maytag,

After installing the coilovers (about 1.2" drop), then I swapped the OEM 20" wheels that came with my car for a set of 19" Carrera Classics that I had on my now departed 987 because they had a brand new set of Michelins (and I love those Carreras), but somehow I didn't like the gap on the front fender, so I lowered more however in my case, more was no better...

Thereafter, for some reason after getting the corner balance done, my car ended being way lowered than expected and my caster is now at 8.7 versus the recommended 7.8 caster and the car definitely does not handle as well as before (the crispiness on the steering feel is gone).

Now I am trying to decide on raising the car again (a bit) or getting the Tarett (or Elephant) LCA adjustable center pucks to reduce the caster from 8.7 to 7.8.
You are 100% correct stating that changing one part affects the function of the other components

I do not have the GT3 LCA's, but the car has the KW-V3's, Tarett GT3 sway bars with drop and toe links (with bump steer F&R), but again everything has to be matched to work together... live and learn :-)
.

[maytag]

Originally Posted by Gilles

Maytag,



After installing the coilovers (about 1.2" drop), then I swapped the OEM 20" wheels that came with my car for a set of 19" Carrera Classics that I had on my now departed 987 because they had a brand new set of Michelins (and I love those Carreras), but somehow I didn't like the gap on the front fender, so I lowered more however in my case, more was no better...



Thereafter, for some reason after getting the corner balance done, my car ended being way lowered than expected and my caster is now at 8.7 versus the recommended 7.8 caster and the car definitely does not handle as well as before (the crispiness on the steering feel is gone).



Now I am trying to decide on raising the car again (a bit) or getting the Tarett (or Elephant) LCA adjustable center pucks to reduce the caster from 8.7 to 7.8.

You are 100% correct stating that changing one part affects the function of the other components



I do not have the GT3 LCA's, but the car has the KW-V3's, Tarett GT3 sway bars with drop and toe links (with bump steer F&R), but again everything has to be matched to work together... live and learn :-)

.

This is good stuff, right here.
So this demonstrates that the pivot of the LCA is not as "perpendicular" as it appears.

Now im not sure that relatively minor change in caster is important (I was much further out of spec all of last season). But it's good to understand that relationship.

Coincidentally, I was just on the phone with another forum member who helped a friend install H&R lowering springs, and as I suspected in my post below, they do indeed need adjustable toe links. (And unlike caster, toe really needs to be "right there")

Thanks for the info, gilles!

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[jmitro]

FWIW I have H&R sport springs with Bilsteins.
I have rear toe links and stock front lower control arms, and the car aligns within stock spec. I also have front Bump-steer adjustable tie rods, although as of yet I haven't adjusted them.

I just started tracking this car and the lack of front camber is evident; I'll be installing GT3 lower control arms soon. Other than that, probably not much else different until I get coilovers