engine temps in Southern Cal?

[pgjkc]

Hi Guys,
I bought my y2K 5sp std just before summer, and we've had a scorcher here. One thing I notice is that the engine does run quite hot compared to other discussions I've read.

For example, under normal running, the temp is somewhat >180, and in traffic, the temp gets >225 (>the 2nd-to-last-tick).

One point, if I've been running on the freeway and then get into traffic, the temp goes up, probably because the forced air cooling disappears.

I'm not a particularly aggressive driver, and usually let the temp get to 180 before I take the car much beyond 3k revs. Taking the car to 4-5k revs for gearchanges also drives the temp up - is this normal beyond the obvious?

Anyone have any ideas to share?

thx!

[MNBoxster]

Hi,

First, lacking a very graduated Temp Gauge, the display is somewhat inaccurate. You have hash marks at 180°, 200°, and 250° so you can only estimate the temp if the needle is between these marks.

Second, the temp will swing depending upon speed, load (the types of things you describe in your post).

Start the car, turn the AC ON and get out, walk to the front and get down on each side to be sure you hear both cooling fans operating (they default to ON with the AC on). Turn AC OFF and allow the car to exceed 185° (the threshold for energizing the cooling fans) and get out and listen again. This will eliminate the temperature sensor as a possible culprit.

Check to see that the coolant level is good. That the system is properly bled (there's a Bleeder Valve located under the escutcheon (Black Disc) under the Coolant Cap, Oil Filler Cap and, on your car, Dipstick). Remove the caps and dipstick and carefully pry up the escutcheon. Under it you'll see a Bleeder Valve. Lift the metal ring, replace the caps and dipstick, and start the car and allow it to fully warm., Then rev the engine to say 2500 several times (this will allow any air in the system to bleed off). Close the Valve (careful it will be hot - take necessary precautions), Shut the car down, and after it cools, replace the escutcheon and caps and check the fluid level, top up as necessary.

Now, you may need to clean out each radiator. These accumulate all sorts of debris from leaves, cigarette butts, insects and even birds. As this debris gets sucked between the radiator vanes, it reduces the cooling area of the radiator(s). It's best to raise the wheel on a side, remove the ducting and back-flush the radiator with a Garden Hose to flush the debris out the same direction it went in. If this has never been done on your car, expect to see an almost unbelievable amount of debris expelled. Hope this helps...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

[CJ_Boxster]

I live in socal and did clean my radiators already, I usually run anywhere from 90 celcius to 103 on a hot day. I could be needing a radiator flush and maybe need to use more water than antifreeze maybe 20/80.

[MNBoxster]

Originally Posted by CJ_Boxster

I live in socal and did clean my radiators already, I usually run anywhere from 90 celcius to 103 on a hot day. I could be needing a radiator flush and maybe need to use more water than antifreeze maybe 20/80.

Hi,

How can you say that? These are just estimates because the needle will be in-between the hash marks.

The minimum mix you want with your coolant is 50/50. Any lower, and you're reducing the lubricating and anti-corrosive qualities of the mix which will have consequences down the road. Your Boxster isn't any different than anyone else's, if you're running Hot, you need to identify and eliminate the cause, not try to compensate for it. Besides, there's nothing wrong with 103°C, at this temp, and at pressure, the coolant is still a liquid (below boiling point) and providing maximum cooling...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

[Brucelee]

Actually, I find an oil temp guage to be much more informative than the coolant temp.

The Covette C5 and 6 has one and it is not a fake out, ie it reads temps by degree and changes pretty quickly.

Using that I have found that the oil temp will usually run about 10 degrees hotter than the coolant, UNLESS you are flogging it. In that case, the oil can get REALLY hot.

If i were tracking my Porsche in the CA heat, I would be running Red Line oil or M1 15W-50, both of which are more shear resistent than the M1 0W-40 oil.

Also, if I were doing a lot of tracking, I would likely get larger oil coolers.

[MNBoxster]

Originally Posted by Brucelee

Actually, I find an oil temp guage to be much more informative than the coolant temp.

The Covette C5 and 6 has one and it is not a fake out, ie it reads temps by degree and changes pretty quickly.

Using that I have found that the oil temp will usually run about 10 degrees hotter than the coolant, UNLESS you are flogging it. In that case, the oil can get REALLY hot.

If i were tracking my Porsche in the CA heat, I would be running Red Line oil or M1 15W-50, both of which are more shear resistent than the M1 0W-40 oil.

Also, if I were doing a lot of tracking, I would likely get larger oil coolers.

Hi,

Excellent points. Your Oil is actually responsible for carrying away 60% of the heat produced by the engine, while the Coolant removes 35% and Airflow around the motor accounts for the other 5%. And, while the Coolant flows around the engine, it's the Oil which removes the more critical heat from the Journals, Big-Ends, and such where the Coolant does not flow. This surprises most people.

And don't forget the importance the Sparkplugs play in managing heat by carrying heat out of the Combustion Chamber to the Head where it is extracted by both the Coolant and the Oil flowing through it...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

[CJ_Boxster]

Interesting, well i can say that cause i wasnt estimating those numbers i gave, I used my AC controls to tell me the coolent temps... So 103 is fine???? weird cause i remember in a previous convos on this forum you were telling me that my car running at 93 celcius was too high. Ill find that convo....Heres the quote from you in the past

"That said, 216°F is a little on the high side (not fatally, but high) for normal conditions. Make sure both your fans are working (turn on AC) and that both radiators are free of debris (a common problem). No two cars are exactly the same, so some variation is normal."

With that said, your beginning to give me one answer and then another in later days.

Originally Posted by MNBoxster

Hi,

How can you say that? These are just estimates because the needle will be in-between the hash marks.

The minimum mix you want with your coolant is 50/50. Any lower, and you're reducing the lubricating and anti-corrosive qualities of the mix which will have consequences down the road. Your Boxster isn't any different than anyone else's, if you're running Hot, you need to identify and eliminate the cause, not try to compensate for it. Besides, there's nothing wrong with 103°C, at this temp, and at pressure, the coolant is still a liquid (below boiling point) and providing maximum cooling...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

[CJ_Boxster]

Do the radiator fans in the front of the car turn on when the car reaches a certain temp or do they only turn on when the AC is turned on?