Noob here!!! 2001 Box....new to me...lots of questions

[Box7774]

Ok will do.......I am pretty sure both windows do go down when I go to lower the top....so I assumed that feature was working for when I put the top back up. I will read up and figure it out....thanks

[blue62]

Originally Posted by Box7774

Ok will do.......I am pretty sure both windows do go down when I go to lower the top....so I assumed that feature was working for when I put the top back up. I will read up and figure it out....thanks

You mentioned in one of your first few posts that your battery only held 12.3 volts after a 3 hour drive the day before testing.
your thought was that you may have a parasitic draw.

12.3 volts is a 30% charge.
If after driving for three hours you have less then 12.5 volts or higher something is wrong.

A battery that is not charging or holding proper charge can cause all kinds of strange little electrical problems.

May I suggest you make certain the battery is charging and holding sufficient charge before looking to other electrical problems.

Starting with the simplest most basic. (main power source=battery) Then working step by step to the more complex helps reduce the chasing of ones own tail.

[tonythetiger]

Originally Posted by Box7774

Ok will do.......I am pretty sure both windows do go down when I go to lower the top....so I assumed that feature was working for when I put the top back up. I will read up and figure it out....thanks

need to replace regulator, 95%.
The window drops slightly when you open door, shuts when closed. The regulator wears and doesn't suck the window down consistently. you can.confirm by pressing down on window when door open and the window is sitting too high for frame, if it moves a little, regulator.

[elgyqc]

The window is supposed to drop just enough to fit under the lip of the top when you open the door. It drops considerably more when you operate the top. Search the forum for a solution. Does the passenger side door window function properly?

[Anker]

You may just need to re-calibrate the window. The procedure is in your owners manual.

[blue62]

Originally Posted by Anker

You may just need to re-calibrate the window. The procedure is in your owners manual.

X-1 Good catch Anker
Basic simplest things first
If the battery was disconnected the computer has to relearn the window position.

[Box7774]

Man o man I would love my window issue to be a simple re calibrate or relearn from battery being disconnected. I confirmed today that both driver and pass door windows hit the top when closing. I have not removed the battery but that doesnt mean the previous owner didnt. If you know exactly where this calibration process is in the manual please help guide me there. You guys have given me so much home work I cant think straight. I have skimmed the million page manual and the million page parts list. Neither were what I would call user friendly.....or at least not easy to navigate. Guys please throw me a freakin bone........I have hours of computer time and three trips to an auto parts store just trying to find the tiny little side marker bulb that is the tail lights. The previous owner has messed everything up and I am not sure what he has in the socket is correct. Damn I sound pitiful huh.......its just frustrating spending that much time on a dumb bulb. I can include info that I have found....maybe one of them is correct. I am looking for what is called a rear side marker bulb and it is located in the tail light assembly. Tonight I bought #2821 for the third brake light...I am hoping that one is correct. It is possible that the 2825 is the bulb that I am looking for....and in the parts manual it looks like it could be the 996 631 032 90 bulb 5w .......

[Box7774]

Trying to stay focused on the prize...do one thing at a time and move to the next.....so far have found I need to do the following

1. Electrical testing.....starting at battery...grounds...etc. Parasitic drain testing....alternator....charging system. Need to get to the bottom of battery being at 12.3 volts

2. Repair replace starter as bendix is sticking

3. Window re calibrate or regulator repair

4. 3rd brake light is loose and needs a bulb replaced

5. Replace rear side marker light if I can ever find one

6. replace shift knob and boot

7. refurb rear plastic window....supplies in the mail

8. drivers visor vanity light cover is broken off...repair

9. figure out what is missing from my tool kit

10. try to keep this list from getting longer

[blue62]

Originally Posted by Box7774

Trying to stay focused on the prize...do one thing at a time and move to the next.....so far have found I need to do the following

1. Electrical testing.....starting at battery...grounds...etc. Parasitic drain testing....alternator....charging system. Need to get to the bottom of battery being at 12.3 volts

2. Repair replace starter as bendix is sticking

3. Window re calibrate or regulator repair

4. 3rd brake light is loose and needs a bulb replaced

5. Replace rear side marker light if I can ever find one

6. replace shift knob and boot

7. refurb rear plastic window....supplies in the mail

8. drivers visor vanity light cover is broken off...repair

9. figure out what is missing from my tool kit

10. try to keep this list from getting longer

How old is the battery?

I would disconnect it and charge it over night.
Then put it back in the car.
turn on the lights for 1 full minute.
turn the lights off.
then check battery voltage across the posts not the cable connectors.
you should have 12.6 or higher.

to recalibrate the windows.
you have already disconnected and reconnected the battery so you have cleared the computer of any previous settings.
with the doors closed and the top up.
press window button and put window all the way down.
Pause briefly
Press window button and put window all the way up
continue to hold button in up position for 10 seconds after window is fully up.
Same for both windows.

To calibrate your Drive by wire gas pedal:
After removing and replacing battery.
Turn key to on position for 1 full minute (I usually do it for a minute 15 seconds). do not start car. do not touch gas pedal.
Turn key off for at least 10 seconds. (I usually turn it off for at least 30 seconds)
Start car you should be good to go.
I have done it this way numerous times never had a problem.
Let us know how you go

[particlewave]

Another thing to remember with the Boxster is that if you want an accurate "off" reading, you must wait until the "consumer shut off" circuit shuts down. That can take 10-15 minutes (I don't remember exactly how long).

Every time you open a door or reconnect the battery (even through the meter) that time resets. So, hook up your meter, wait 15 minutes, then check.

[blue62]

Originally Posted by particlewave

Another thing to remember with the Boxster is that if you want an accurate "off" reading, you must wait until the "consumer shut off" circuit shuts down. That can take 10-15 minutes (I don't remember exactly how long).

Every time you open a door or reconnect the battery (even through the meter) that time resets. So, hook up your meter, wait 15 minutes, then check.

Yup they started screwing cars up after about 1960. LOL

[Box7774]

Thanks all.......I will report back...
I almost did the unthinkable and shut the front hood with no battery in the car.....I yelled out ohhhhhh shytttttttttttt!!!!! Then I realized you have to do the double push on a 986....saved the day....now hood is open with big sign on it.

[Box7774]

Took the battery to auto zone....Its a brand new store in my neighborhood so everything is clean and perfect.....to include the shiny new battery testing machine....that thing must cost $1000 dollars. The kid didnt give me much info other then it was at 12.55 volts on his machine......12.47 on my multi meter.....I even changed the battery on my meter but no change. I guess I will go with what the $1000 dollar machine said. He said the battery was good. So tonight I cleaned up the negative body post..removed the shrink tubing and inspected.....found zero issues with cable wires....cleaned up a bit added some dielectric grease and shrunk a new boot on. Im not really believing this post was my issue...but gotta start somewhere and it did need to be cleaned up.

I bought a 3rd brake light for $30
OEM starter for $65 had 70k miles on it......
Both from ebay last night.....let the spending begin!!!!!

See the before after on the body post....I will be crackin into that engine bay tomorrow...I cant wait to see it....yet with 158k I am very apprehensive...really dont want the spending to keep going and going and going.

[tonythetiger]

Originally Posted by Box7774

Thanks all.......I will report back...

I almost did the unthinkable and shut the front hood with no battery in the car.....I yelled out ohhhhhh shytttttttttttt!!!!! Then I realized you have to do the double push on a 986....saved the day....now hood is open with big sign on it.

Also, careful that you push on the edge for the second click. If you push higher up on hood, you will dent the car. Jiffy lube did it to one of mine during the 22 point check for fluids, etc.
dentless repair kinda fixed it, but...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Box7774]

Thanks for the tip Tony......

Ok I am reporting on my progress for anyone that is still with me......I had the battery removed and it was at 12.55v according to the guy at Auto Zone. I decided to hook it to my modern computer style battery charger for a few hours to really jazz it up. It charged quickly and with a surface charge was showing 12.7 or 12.8 when I reinstalled it. My terminals are spotless now and so is the ground post. After a short drive last night...and a short drive today the battery is reading in the 12.5 range. It will be interesting to see if it sinks back down to 12.3.
I did the alternator test tonight and with the engine running was reading 14.1 and 14.2 .....it held on very well even with a load.

Will keep an eye one it. New starter will arrive in a couple of days and I will finally be forced to find the engine. Once the engine has been excavated I will look carefully for wiring issues and ground issues.

[blue62]

Box7744,
Yup cleaning up that ground connection will be a good thing.
Good thinking on the battery load test idea. Best way to see if it is good or bad.

[particlewave]

The door and dome lights are controlled by the immobilizer. The immobilizer gets the door open signal from a switch inside the door latch mechanism.

[Box7774]

Thanks PW........Have been checking my volts like a crazy man.......they are creeping downward. 12.47 now. I still have several days before my starter arrives and when I will get into the engine so I was thinking about trying a new battery. Its only 120 bucks and it would help me determine parasitic drain. So I was reading several posts and many mentioned a Walmart battery. When I looked up the Walmart battery for my car a H8 size came up. Now this made me go back to my pictures of the current battery in the car which is a H6. So I looked at more web sites and I am seeing anywhere from H6 ....to H7. Keep in mind I cannot talk intelligently about battery group sizes...CCA...or otherwise. I just pick up what the chart says and install it.

So what do u guys recommend on the cheap....and what size H6 H7...H8

Current battery says MTP-48/H6-1
CCA 730
CA910
RC115
AH70
Its an Interstate Battery.

Novus plastic polish arrived today
New used 3rd brake light arrived today

[blue62]

Originally Posted by Box7774

Thanks PW........Have been checking my volts like a crazy man.......they are creeping downward. 12.47 now. I still have several days before my starter arrives and when I will get into the engine so I was thinking about trying a new battery. Its only 120 bucks and it would help me determine parasitic drain. So I was reading several posts and many mentioned a Walmart battery. When I looked up the Walmart battery for my car a H8 size came up. Now this made me go back to my pictures of the current battery in the car which is a H6. So I looked at more web sites and I am seeing anywhere from H6 ....to H7. Keep in mind I cannot talk intelligently about battery group sizes...CCA...or otherwise. I just pick up what the chart says and install it.

So what do u guys recommend on the cheap....and what size H6 H7...H8

Current battery says MTP-48/H6-1
CCA 730
CA910
RC115
AH70
Its an Interstate Battery.

Novus plastic polish arrived today
New used 3rd brake light arrived today

I just tested my battery it is at 12.40 volts I have not started it for about a week.
There is always a little drain on the battery in a modern day car so at 12.47 I think you may be ok. give it a few more days of sitting (if you can stand it) and see where your at.

[Troy.Boxster]

Here is something else you can do that might help with the parasitic battery drain. I've not had a problem with my battery running down since making this change to the radio. It's worth a shot at least.

http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-general-discussions/71827-parasitic-battery-drain-solved.html

Good luck!

-Troy