Ignition switch electrical

[Sammyj]

I’m guessing that the electrical part of my ignition switch is failing. 1998 boxster with what I’m guessing is the original switch. With the switch in the run position but the car not running, I have full function of both the headlights and wipers. Once the car is started and running, the wipers do not work and the headlights are very dim. I am able to get full function of both if I start and shut-off the car multiple times.
To me this sounds like the ignition switch. What does everyone think?

[particlewave]

Definitely, 100% bad ignition switch.

[tonythetiger]

not sure, but the switch is easy enough to replace, takes about 5 minutes once you squezze yourself under the dash. You need a small flat blade screwdriver to loosen set screw (DONT REMOVE IT) and it pops right in. Pedros Garage explains the entire procedure in detail.
search on amazon for 4A0 905 849B, the vw/audi switch to see significant savings...its the same part selling for 30-60 dollars under porsche badge.

[Sammyj]

Thank you guys for the quick replies

[piper6909]

While we're on the subject of ignition switches, which is better; The genuine Audi or the OEM?

Pelican has genuine Audi for $38.50 and OEM brand for $29.75

The OEM brand looks like the genuine Porsche, but I'm unclear if it's the OEM supplier or just OEM is just a brand name?

Which would you all recommend? Mine's pretty stiff to turn, so I think it's due for a new one before it bites the dust completely.

[KRAM36]

Originally Posted by piper6909

While we're on the subject of ignition switches, which is better; The genuine Audi or the OEM?

Pelican has genuine Audi for $38.50 and OEM brand for $29.75

The OEM brand looks like the genuine Porsche, but I'm unclear if it's the OEM supplier or just OEM is just a brand name?

Which would you all recommend? Mine's pretty stiff to turn, so I think it's due for a new one before it bites the dust completely.

Just get the Meyle Ignition Switch, they are excellent and not expensive. I got mine from ECS Tuning shipped First Class Mail for $12.32 total, but they have raised the price $1 since I bought mine.

[elgyqc]

Originally Posted by piper6909

... Mine's pretty stiff to turn, so I think it's due for a new one before it bites the dust completely.

An ignition that is stiff to turn may not be the electrical switch. An easy test is to remove the electrical switch and see if that eliminates the stiffness. That was not the case for my 2000 5-speed. Turning the key was difficult, then about a week ago it would not turn even to the first position... removed the electrical switch... same problem. I finally had to remove the whole steering lock mechanism and found that the bolt (bolt as in a dead-bolt) that slides into the steering shaft to lock it was stuck in the advanced position. Once the mechanism was out I oiled the bolt and everything now works. Meanwhile I had bought a used mechanism that I installed. My other Boxster is showing the same stiffness so I am going to remove the ignition key barrel and spray oil in that I hope will make its way down to the bolt and loosen it up.
I plan to do a thread on this experience for future generations because learned a lot.

[tonythetiger]

Originally Posted by elgyqc

An ignition that is stiff to turn may not be the electrical switch. An easy test is to remove the electrical switch and see if that eliminates the stiffness. That was not the case for my 2000 5-speed. Turning the key was difficult, then about a week ago it would not turn even to the first position... removed the electrical switch... same problem. I finally had to remove the whole steering lock mechanism and found that the bolt (bolt as in a dead-bolt) that slides into the steering shaft to lock it was stuck in the advanced position. Once the mechanism was out I oiled the bolt and everything now works. Meanwhile I had bought a used mechanism that I installed. My other Boxster is showing the same stiffness so I am going to remove the ignition key barrel and spray oil in that I hope will make its way down to the bolt and loosen it up.
I plan to do a thread on this experience for future generations because learned a lot.

Am I the only one that thinks oil in the ignition switch is a bad idea? I have always lubricated locks and such with graphite. Graphite lubricant doesn't attract dust and dirt, which will damage the locking mechanism. Also, i would be curious what oil does to the plastic parts of this mechanism over time.

[particlewave]

Definitely don't put oil or other wet lubricants in lock mechanisms. It will attract dirt/debris and eventually gum up pretty good.

Graphite only.

[KRAM36]

Yep, graphite only, although this has nothing to do with the op's question.

Unless you just recently replaced the ignition switch, you're a complete idiot not to spend $15 to get a new ignition switch and replace the old switch if you're pulling the old ignition switch out to see if that's what's causing the hard turning of the key. If you can't cough up that $15, sell the car now.

[Tailwind]

http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-general-discussions/75214-possible-ignition-switch-issue.html#post594616

I bought the Meyle from Amazon $28.00 based on members' recommendations.

[elgyqc]

Originally Posted by tonythetiger

Am I the only one that thinks oil in the ignition switch is a bad idea? I have always lubricated locks and such with graphite. Graphite lubricant doesn't attract dust and dirt, which will damage the locking mechanism. Also, i would be curious what oil does to the plastic parts of this mechanism over time.

My intention is to pull the ignition barrel, so the oil is to lubricate the bolt which is below the barrel. The reason I am thinking oil and not graphite is that it is about 8 inches from where the barrel sits to the end of the bolt, all down hill, so my thinking is that the oil will get all the way to the bolt. Not sure that graphite powder would be able to work its way down.
But that being said perhaps I should try the graphite first. Is there a liquid that could be used to deliver the graphite and that would evaporate after? Some kind of alcohol?

[KRAM36]

Meyle ignition switch $14.94 including shipping. First link in this search.

https://duckduckgo.com/?q=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ecstuning.com%2Fb-meyle-parts%2Fignition-switch%2F4a0905849b~mey%2F&t=ffsb&ia=web

Or $20.49 from Pelican including shipping.

https://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/pel_search_2016.cgi?command=DWsearch&make=POR&description=4A0-905-849-BMY-INT

[tonythetiger]

Originally Posted by elgyqc

My intention is to pull the ignition barrel, so the oil is to lubricate the bolt which is below the barrel. The reason I am thinking oil and not graphite is that it is about 8 inches from where the barrel sits to the end of the bolt, all down hill, so my thinking is that the oil will get all the way to the bolt. Not sure that graphite powder would be able to work its way down.
But that being said perhaps I should try the graphite first. Is there a liquid that could be used to deliver the graphite and that would evaporate after? Some kind of alcohol?

for that I would use white lithium grease and work the bolt back and forth a little. That should last forever. Comes in tubes and spray. The spray is a mess but you can spray on cardboard and transfer with brush, toothpick etc.

[mikeinmass]

I will be very happy to pay you $250 to replace this damn switch.. I can't believe how you guys are doing this, and yes I've seen how you are doing it. What a PITA.

[tonythetiger]

Originally Posted by mikeinmass

I will be very happy to pay you $250 to replace this damn switch.. I can't believe how you guys are doing this, and yes I've seen how you are doing it. What a PITA.

The PITA is half the fun.
:+)