brake reservoir strainer removal

[jandr95]

I'd leave it alone altogether but I thought I should remove some fluid before I push in and replace the front pads. Plus I kinda wanted to know the current color so I could maybe buy a contrasting color. Then I'll know when I've pushed the old stuff out.

Sounds like I just have to be more aggressive with the damn thing.

Thanks for all the replies.

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by jandr95

I'd leave it alone altogether but I thought I should remove some fluid before I push in and replace the front pads. Plus I kinda wanted to know the current color so I could maybe buy a contrasting color. Then I'll know when I've pushed the old stuff out.

Sounds like I just have to be more aggressive with the damn thing.

Thanks for all the replies.

Then removing the strainer it totally unnecessary. There is absolutely no need to remove any fluid from the reservoir before changing the front pads. And if you are going to use something like the Motive pressure flushing system, again there is no need to remove the strainer; the Motive system uses positive displacement to push all of the old fluid out ahead of the new stuff. And even if you stay with the same color fluid, there is an obvious change in appearance when the clean shows up at the bleeder.

[Burg Boxster]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

Then removing the strainer it totally unnecessary. There is absolutely no need to remove any fluid from the reservoir before changing the front pads. And if you are going to use something like the Motive pressure flushing system, again there is no need to remove the strainer; the Motive system uses positive displacement to push all of the old fluid out ahead of the new stuff. And even if you stay with the same color fluid, there is an obvious change in appearance when the clean shows up at the bleeder.

x2 agree w/ all JFP states above when using Motive Bleeder 'wet'.

Some people, myself included, prefer using Motive Bleeders 'dry'. Instead of mixing new fluid w/ old in reservoir... or removing old fluid via top of reservoir, there is a super easy alternative (tangental to what OP desires... having less 'old' fluid pushed thru system when doing a flush). Treat as if you had overfilled... adjust level down the easiest way possible.

Simply connect your Motive Bleeder w/ old fluid still in... Pressurize and bleed off most of remaining at closest wheel/corner.* Same thing if you ended up w/ too much fluid after compressing all pistons w/ a pad change...(though would think if you're changing pads so worn you'd automatically insist on fluid flush). Anywho, doing so via bleeder virtually eliminates any risk of spilling fluid on your paint. Refill reservoir and proceed w/ regular flush protocol... pressurize and begin bleeding at corner furthest away. Check pressure and level after each corner to be extra safe and work sequentially on next closest corner until you finish at corner closest to reservoir.*

*SPECIAL NOTE - DO NOT EVER ALLOW RESERVOIR TO GO DRY. Doing so will introduce air into system. If you allow air in you will absolutely need the PIWIS system to activate ABS system while flushing to bleed air out.

Good luck

[jandr95]

Okay, I believe I will proceed with the screen in place. I'll bleed off the majority of the old fluid before compressing the caliper pistons. Thanks everyone for your input.
Now -- and I'm not joking -- should I go with ceramic or semi-metallic pads? It's street use only. And I'm looking at ATE or Sebro rotors. Opinions?

Let the debate begin. Seriously, though, I do value this group's opinions.