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Old 02-02-2017, 05:50 AM   #1
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scavenging pump orientation

A question for JFP...

Which of the two ports is closest to the crankshaft? The larger one (38x12mm) or the smaller one (35x10mm)

I removed the cam cover to replace the green seals (spark plug holes) and of course I didn't mark the position of the pump..




Last edited by Gilles; 02-02-2017 at 05:54 AM.
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Old 02-02-2017, 07:26 AM   #2
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Which Bank are you working on? It makes a difference !
Check the classic long Post by Insite on camshaft allocation.
You are looking at the wrong side of the pump. Flip it over .Note the 1-2 and the 4-6 marks. They are the key. not the holes on the back.
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Old 02-02-2017, 07:38 AM   #3
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This is for the 1-3 cylinder bank and you can align the ports in two different positions that are 180 degrees apart.
One port is larger than the other
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Old 02-02-2017, 08:20 AM   #4
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Page 15-20r of the engine workshop manual shows correct positioning of the scavenge pumps. In this case, the 1-3 marking must face the crankcase.



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Old 02-02-2017, 08:26 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gilles View Post
This is for the 1-3 cylinder bank and you can align the ports in two different positions that are 180 degrees apart.
One port is larger than the other
AS I said, forget the ports.You'll get muddled. Use the markings on the face- per the FSM. If Bank 1 the 1-3 marking faces/closest to the c/s
If Bank 2 4-6 faces the c/s.
Is the engine in the car? If so this is a horrid job because of access and visibility. When you lock the c/s be meticulous about it because you can't see the marks head -on.It is very easy to produce a slight camshaft deviation(check with Durametric) then you get to do it all over again - with new O rings and green plugs !
Good Luck and let us know?
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Old 02-05-2017, 10:43 AM   #6
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Page 15-20r of the engine workshop manual shows correct positioning of the scavenge pumps. In this case, the 1-3 marking must face the crankcase.
Hello RodJ,

Thank you for the picture, and the comments from Gelbster.

Last night I installed the scavenging pump and slowly finishing the project, I just need to wait for the o-rings for the chain tensioners and the engine/gearbox will be complete.

Today I will install the coilovers as these were sent back from KW (for rebuild) last week, can hardly wait because I miss driving my car..
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Old 08-13-2020, 03:17 PM   #7
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I know this is an old thread but I have a question. What are the steps to changing the scavenge pump O-ring?
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Old 08-13-2020, 04:27 PM   #8
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I know this is an old thread but I have a question. What are the steps to changing the scavenge pump O-ring?
It's pretty straightforward.
Mark the cover so you put it back in the correct orientation.
4 bolts, catch the oil as you pull/pry it out.
Swap the o- ring. Put it back in. Bolt it up.

BOOM.

And then put me on your ignore list.... ;-)

Minor edit; don't forget to pay attention to the keyed slot in the back of the pump. As long as you don't disturb anything, it'll go right back on in the same orientation.

Last edited by maytag; 08-13-2020 at 06:43 PM.
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Old 08-13-2020, 09:31 PM   #9
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Yep, Maytag is correct. It's a pretty easy job.

If you don't get the pump oriented correctly, you will have a lot of trouble with giant smoke bombs if you track the car. Don't ask me how I know.

I didn't make the mistake, it was that way when I bought the car. I took me a long time to figure out what was wrong!
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Old 08-14-2020, 07:52 AM   #10
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Yep, Maytag is correct. It's a pretty easy job.

If you don't get the pump oriented correctly, you will have a lot of trouble with giant smoke bombs if you track the car. Don't ask me how I know.

I didn't make the mistake, it was that way when I bought the car. I took me a long time to figure out what was wrong!
Any idea of the torque spec?
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Old 08-14-2020, 08:13 AM   #11
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It's in the manual, 10 ft lbs.

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