spark plugs - any preferences?

[Mark_T]

I have Bosch, Beru, and NGK readily available. Any reasons for choosing one over another?

[clickman]

NGKs work fine for me...

[thstone]

I have used them all and never noticed any difference.

Bosch is a German brand (probably made in China). Beru is a German OEM brand owned by BorgWarner (and are probably made in China). And NGK is a Japanese brand (also probably made in China).

I'd choose whichever brand is on top of the parts stack.

(P.S. I was being sarcastic about all of them being made in China. My point is that there isn't any functional difference so they could conceivably all be made in the same factory)

[Deserion]

I used Beru when I changed mine last year. I think they were made in France, FWIW, if I remember correctly.

[78F350]

Brand? Country of manufacture? Pointless.
Give us some real information.

• How many electrodes is best? Is it all marketing, like razors, where one is actually as good as four or does it matter?
• Plantnum? Iridium? Copper?
• Dimpled? Forked? Plain?
• Check the gap, trust the manufacture, or look up a Porsche spec?

Be sure to torque them to: 30 +/-3 Nm (22 +/-2 ft-lbs)
Edit: originally I posted: And do not use anti-seize. Although this is technically correct, it is bad advice. See posts below for more info.

[Lew]

I pulled a Spark plug this AM on my Boxster and see that the Beru plugs were installed from the factory. Looks like they will be in the trash soon. New Beru plugs are coming from Amazon. At 30k the tips are burned away somewhat. The original plugs were made in France, and the new Beru plugs now, come from China.
At Amazon they are priced at $42 today, with free shipping, however I used some of my points on my Amazon Charge card, and the plugs were only $30. A good deal!

I tried to upload a picture, but the 986forum program that allows the upload is not working.

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by 78F350

Brand? Country of manufacture? Pointless.
Give us some real information.

• How many electrodes is best? Is it all marketing, like razors, where one is actually as good as four or does it matter?
• Plantnum? Iridium? Copper?
• Dimpled? Forked? Plain?
• Check the gap, trust the manufacture, or look up a Porsche spec?

Be sure to torque them to: 30 Nm (22 ft-lbs)
And do not use anti-seize.

One electrode is all that is needed

Iridium is by far the most durable

None of that really matters

Always at least check the gap

And always use anti seize

[Gelbster]

[QUOTE=78F350;517263]Brand? Country of manufacture? Pointless.

QUOTE]
Interesting example - just bought a stock Bosch Fuel Injector for the Boxster from a Porsche specialist. In tiny print on on face of the box "Made in China" . At least it was not a fake ?

[Pdwight]

But why wouldn't you use anti-seize on two dissimilar metals

[rick3000]

I used Beru spark plugs, they are an OEM supplier to Porsche.

[More]

How often should you change the spark plugs?

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by Pdwight

But why wouldn't you use anti-seize on two dissimilar metals

Porsche has for many years recommended against using anti seize because many types commonly used in the EU are actually dielectric (read an insulator) and reduce the plug's ability to find a ground. The metal paste types used here are fully electrically conductive, which eliminates this issue while protecting the alloy heads.

Having had to repair several cylinder heads with plug holes whose threads came out still attached to the plugs, you would have to be nuts not to use it, but "old wive's tales" persist....

[78F350]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

Porsche has for many years recommended against using anti seize because many types commonly used in the EU are actually dielectric (read an insulator) and reduce the plug's ability to find a ground. The metal paste types used here are fully electrically conductive, which eliminates this issue while protecting the alloy heads.

Having had to repair several cylinder heads with plug holes whose threads came out still attached to the plugs, you would have to be nuts not to use it, but "old wive's tales" persist....

Good to know. I got my original information to not use anti-seize from reading a couple posts by Loren on Renntech and the tech article on Pelican Parts.
There is a TSB from Porsche that said not to use any. I can not find that document on any official Porsche site. Here's a post with a picture of the original Tech Bulletin: Pelican Parts Technical BBS - View Single Post - Anti-Seize on Spark Plugs


Now I want to go back and put a dab of anti-seize on my plugs and I am editing my previous post.
---------------
The correct torque for the spark plugs is also difficult to identify.
My hard-copy service manual updated through 2004 says, "30+3 (22+2) NM/Ftlb New" and "25+5 (18+3.5) NM/Ftlb Old".
That got some people to think it was a two-stage process.
Somewhere I read that that was a typo-bad translation and should have read +/- where is says +

Pelican Parts Tech article says "Torque the spark plugs to 30 Nm (22 ft-lbs)"

JFP in PA:

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

The only one that matters is Porsche: Spec is 22 ft. lbs. +/- 2 ft. lb.

---------------

How often should you change the spark plugs?

Every 10,000 miles, or annually. "I recommend replacing your spark plugs every 10,000 miles, or about once a year. In reality, you can probably go longer than that, however, you never really quite know how long the plugs are going to last, or you may forget to replace them if you don't setup a yearly schedule."
Or every 30,000 miles.
Maintenance Schedule - Porsche Boxster (986) FAQ
Or every 60,000 miles.
https://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/maintenancemanualpagesfor%2701
...whichever comes first.

[JFP in PA]

Both Loren and Pelican got their information from Porsche literature (been discussed in the past as well), which is based on the dielectric properties of many types of anti seize. We have several thousand plugs running around without issues, all of which have metallic paste style anti seize on them; and in all the years we have been doing this, we have never had one gall or pull the threads out of a cylinder head. All you need to do is check your brand of anti seize for its conductivity properties, if it is conductive, as most are, you are golden.

[Gelbster]

Excellent ,practical advice(as usual)and validated by years of real-world useage.Thanks JFP
For the Chemistry geeks here is link to confirm. Do NOT use the marine grade antisieze !Chase the threads.
https://www.antiseize.com/PDFs/how-to-choose-an-antiseize.pdf

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

Both Loren and Pelican got their information from Porsche literature (been discussed in the past as well), which is based on the dielectric properties of many types of anti seize. We have several thousand plugs running around without issues, all of which have metallic paste style anti seize on them; and in all the years we have been doing this, we have never had one gall or pull the threads out of a cylinder head. All you need to do is check your brand of anti seize for its conductivity properties, if it is conductive, as most are, you are golden.

I use Permatex:
https://www.permatex.com/products/lubricants/specialty-lubricants-anti-seize/permatex-anti-seize-lubricant-2/

[Pdwight]

I have a lifetime supply (for me anyway 1 bottle ) of aluminum base that I have used for years

Which is best Aluminum, Copper, or Nickel ??

and does brand make a difference

Not tooting JFP's horn but I like information by doing....and empirical prof means a lot to me.

[Gelbster]

as long as it conducts electricity it is O.K. The link I provided has details.

[Pdwight]

I know everything expires....but does this stuff really ??

I mean the liquid whatever it is is really just a medium to hold the product in suspension

PS Gelbster that is the same product I have been using for years and it has never let me down

[Lew]

If anyone is interested, Autozone has the 1 oz tube for 3.89. My Beru plugs are coming from Amazon in a few days and I plan on picking up a tube. Permatex Part Number 81343.

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by Pdwight

I have a lifetime supply (for me anyway 1 bottle ) of aluminum base that I have used for years

Which is best Aluminum, Copper, or Nickel ??

and does brand make a difference

Not tooting JFP's horn but I like information by doing....and empirical prof means a lot to me.

Aluminum is a good general purpose anti seize; copper is as well, but does not get along with some alloys such as stainless steel (can cause galvanic reactions) so you need to check before using it. Nickel has the highest temperature and corrosion resistance, but tends to cost slightly more.