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Old 08-18-2016, 08:40 AM   #1
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The problem is the same for one hole or one hundred holes - swarf clogging the flutes of the tap .Galling is also a specific problem in aluminum tapping. If you just power-through a galling tap in aliuminum you'll have very loose threads.
Btw fitting a s/s stud +red Loctite instead of a bolt may be a better fix .
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Old 08-18-2016, 06:47 PM   #2
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Tapped, heli coil in. Not the best job. I couldn't put out so it is grabbing something. I'll need to cut the bolt a little. I'm a bit depressed at the results. Moving on. Thanks everyone.
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Old 08-19-2016, 05:45 AM   #3
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I wish I was there. I still need to figure out why the left side front is not dropping to correct height. I put in lowering spring. Lowered and it looked ok. I then notice I put the bottom washer on the strut the wrong direction. Flipped and put back together. Now the spring or strut is not compressing. Hoping once I get the right down, it will fix it self. Right was down on the ground when it settled ok. Right up when left didn't settle. I tried lowering right with jack. Left still didn't settle. Not sure if I could have ruined strut. Don't see how I could have.
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Old 08-19-2016, 04:26 PM   #4
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Front end is lowered. Thanks everyone for your help and patience.
David
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Old 08-19-2016, 05:18 PM   #5
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Front end is lowered. Thanks everyone for your help and patience.
David
This is a priceless thread. Folks who have never machined anything in their lives giving sage advice. Olive oil! Bwha ha ha ha ha!!!!! Brilliant!!! WD 40?!?! Hope you're looking for some nice loose threads! What a bunch of jokers! Hey, Ive got some vegetable oil I could spare... I'm sure somebody out there has some K-Y, or maybe consider the right tool for the job, cutting oil. Almost like it was made for just such an application. I'm glad to see you ditched the primitive Pete's and are doing the job right. A textbook example of folks giving bad advice on the forum.

Now to be completely fair, a crappy thread cutting job for you application really doesn't matter, but if you were cutting threads where fit mattered olive oil advice is deadly.
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Old 08-19-2016, 05:43 PM   #6
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This is a priceless thread. Folks who have never machined anything in their lives giving sage advice. Olive oil! Bwha ha ha ha ha!!!!! Brilliant!!! WD 40?!?! Hope you're looking for some nice loose threads! What a bunch of jokers! Hey, Ive got some vegetable oil I could spare... I'm sure somebody out there has some K-Y, or maybe consider the right tool for the job, cutting oil. Almost like it was made for just such an application. I'm glad to see you ditched the primitive Pete's and are doing the job right. A textbook example of folks giving bad advice on the forum.

Now to be completely fair, a crappy thread cutting job for you application really doesn't matter, but if you were cutting threads where fit mattered olive oil advice is deadly.
I know you're not referring to me since you know that I'm an engineer and have been machining and turning wrenches for 20 years. Or did you forget?

You don't need cutting fluid for a 1/8" job, as you just stated (and contradicted yourself).
Have you been drinking?

BTW, a proper engine rebuild would have included an ultrasonic bath (or does doing things by the book only apply to others?).

#dontinternetdrunk

Last edited by particlewave; 08-19-2016 at 05:58 PM.
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Old 08-21-2016, 09:29 AM   #7
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In my experience, you want to use cutting oil on smaller threads even if not absolutely required because you'd want to use the lubrication to be able to determine when the tap is cutting and when the tap is bottomed out and about to break, or jamming up with swarf and about to break, which is easy to do because M6 taps aren't very strong.
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