Drilling out easy out

[DWBOX2000]

Front end is lowered. Thanks everyone for your help and patience.
David

[Jamesp]

Originally Posted by DWBOX2000

Front end is lowered. Thanks everyone for your help and patience.
David

This is a priceless thread. Folks who have never machined anything in their lives giving sage advice. Olive oil! Bwha ha ha ha ha!!!!! Brilliant!!! WD 40?!?! Hope you're looking for some nice loose threads! What a bunch of jokers! Hey, Ive got some vegetable oil I could spare... I'm sure somebody out there has some K-Y, or maybe consider the right tool for the job, cutting oil. Almost like it was made for just such an application. I'm glad to see you ditched the primitive Pete's and are doing the job right. A textbook example of folks giving bad advice on the forum.

Now to be completely fair, a crappy thread cutting job for you application really doesn't matter, but if you were cutting threads where fit mattered olive oil advice is deadly.

[particlewave]

Originally Posted by Jamesp

This is a priceless thread. Folks who have never machined anything in their lives giving sage advice. Olive oil! Bwha ha ha ha ha!!!!! Brilliant!!! WD 40?!?! Hope you're looking for some nice loose threads! What a bunch of jokers! Hey, Ive got some vegetable oil I could spare... I'm sure somebody out there has some K-Y, or maybe consider the right tool for the job, cutting oil. Almost like it was made for just such an application. I'm glad to see you ditched the primitive Pete's and are doing the job right. A textbook example of folks giving bad advice on the forum.

Now to be completely fair, a crappy thread cutting job for you application really doesn't matter, but if you were cutting threads where fit mattered olive oil advice is deadly.

I know you're not referring to me since you know that I'm an engineer and have been machining and turning wrenches for 20 years. Or did you forget?

You don't need cutting fluid for a 1/8" job, as you just stated (and contradicted yourself).
Have you been drinking?

BTW, a proper engine rebuild would have included an ultrasonic bath (or does doing things by the book only apply to others?).

#dontinternetdrunk

[B6T]

In my experience, you want to use cutting oil on smaller threads even if not absolutely required because you'd want to use the lubrication to be able to determine when the tap is cutting and when the tap is bottomed out and about to break, or jamming up with swarf and about to break, which is easy to do because M6 taps aren't very strong.

[Jamesp]

Wd40 will not work as cutting oil. Cutting oil, fluid really, is there to oxidize the metal as it is being cut so the workpiece and the cutting tool don't microscopically cold weld at the cutting surface which creates the aforementioned galling.

[particlewave]

You don't need cutting fluid to tap one tiny hole, lmao!
You guys crack me up sometimes...does he need Porsche specific cutting fluid? It's tapping a 1/8" hole for a bracket, not an engine rebuild.

You better replace that IMSB while you're at it. Those things can explode at any time!

[DWBOX2000]

I got the fluid anyhow. I got everything to finish the job, just need to do. Thanks everyone for the help. I'll report back.

Particle wave, I appreciate your humor.😃

[steved0x]

When tapping, it is good insurance to have protection.

[DWBOX2000]

Helicoil is only like a 1/2 inch, bolt is just under an inch. Is that right?

[Gelbster]

Originally Posted by DWBOX2000

Helicoil is only like a 1/2 inch, bolt is just under an inch. Is that right?

see #24 it is a video that gives the basics

[DWBOX2000]

Sorry, wife left table and I was trying to write quick. Waiting outside store now. So is the heli size correct? Do I just drill the hole the length of the bolt and spin heli to bottom? Leave heli flush and cut bolt? Find longer heli?

[DWBOX2000]

Stupid question which way do I turn the tap. I would think clockwise but my track record is not so hot.

[steved0x]

Originally Posted by DWBOX2000

Stupid question which way do I turn the tap. I would think clockwise but my track record is not so hot.

Yeah clockwise. Then blow it out with some brake cleaner. Gently test fit the helicoil but just a turn or two. The red loctite that mother in there. Don't forget to knock the tab off the end of the helicoil after you set it. Wait a bit for the loctite to set and then proceed with your installation.

I would only tap as deep as your helicoil is long, (or just a touch deeper) and then install so the helicoil is flush with the surface. Edit: I just saw your post. Drill down to the depth of your bolt. But tap and set the helicoil flush with the surface and red loctite it in so it is permanently installed, flush to the surface. Shouldn't have to cut the bolt.

Also did you get my pm, I have an extra stud for the brake bracket, send me your address and I will send it to you if you want to go the stud approach for that one.

[Xpit77]

Originally Posted by DWBOX2000

Stupid question which way do I turn the tap. I would think clockwise but my track record is not so hot.

Righty tighty lefty loosey. Sorry couldnt help it.
Normally you shouldn`t use anti-seize if the faster has a specific torque value but 7.5 sure.

[jcslocum]

Originally Posted by Xpit77

Normally you shouldn't use anti-seize if the faster has a specific torque value but 7.5 sure.

What?? Where did this info come from?

[stephen wilson]

Originally Posted by jcslocum

What?? Where did this info come from?

Anti-seize can change the installed bolt tension greatly, the increased lubricity can lead to an over-torqued fastener, or bolt breakage. IIRC the rule of thumb is to lower the torque wrench setting something like 50% vs. bolt installed dry. Oil has a similar but lesser effect.

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by stephen wilson

Anti-seize can change the installed bolt tension greatly, the increased lubricity can lead to an over-torqued fastener, or bolt breakage. IIRC the rule of thumb is to lower the torque wrench setting something like 50% vs. bolt installed dry. Oil has a similar but lesser effect.

Sorry, but that is not remotely correct. To assure you obtain the correct torque settings, and the targeted clamping force, the fasteners (including washers) should be lubricated. This is particularly important in torque to yield applications like the flywheel bolts. Optimal repeatable results can be obtained using something like ARP's Ultra Torque compound, but in cases of dissimilar metals where later corrosion and thread galling is likely to occur, an anti seize compound should be used. When using a lubricant, no change in the torque wrench settings should be used, just apply the recommended torque.

If you want to see more information on the subject, check out ARP's website, they have an extensive white paper on what actually happens to the resulting torque (and clamping force) repeatability with and without lubrication, with vastly more data then you will probably ever need.

[Gelbster]

Originally Posted by jcslocum

What?? Where did this info come from?

Lubricating Threads

[jcslocum]

WD will work perfect for what you have to do. With the tap, get it started and then go in a turn and then out a turn, this will clear the chips from the tap flutes.

[DWBOX2000]

Bolt seems to hold pretty nicely. I feel pretty comfortable I could torque the bolt over 7.5 lb ft. Just curious, everyone says to put loctite on the bolt. Wouldn't I be better with anti seize since the bolt not coming out caused this debacle? Just curious.