What are your thoughts on this oil migration?

[kk2002s]

Originally Posted by jdraupp

You're obviously not married. If I spent 3 grand without my wife's approval, she'd be my ex wife.

Happy wife=Happy life.

If my wife don't like me throwing money at my Boxster - She can get the hell out of my Trailer

[FauxDiablo]

Pulled the flywheel off...

I was greeted by a VERY dry Rear Main Seal area

I just blew-off all of the clutch dust and what you see is what I got. I will NOT be touching the RMS.

The IMSB inspection is the next step.

Just by looking at the IMSB flange, does anybody know if this is going to be a Double Row or a Single Row bearing? Does it matter?

My thoughts were to lock it at TDC, lock the cams, take tension off the chains, and then remove the bolt and cover to check for any play on the bolt/shaft. If it wobbles, it will be replaced...and was planning on leaving it alone if it's not broken. 67K miles.

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by FauxDiablo

Pulled the flywheel off...

I was greeted by a VERY dry Rear Main Seal area

I just blew-off all of the clutch dust and what you see is what I got. I will NOT be touching the RMS.

The IMSB inspection is the next step.

Just by looking at the IMSB flange, does anybody know if this is going to be a Double Row or a Single Row bearing? Does it matter?

My thoughts were to lock it at TDC, lock the cams, take tension off the chains, and then remove the bolt and cover to check for any play on the bolt/shaft. If it wobbles, it will be replaced...and was planning on leaving it alone if it's not broken. 67K miles.

Just to check it, you have done 99% of the work required to replace it, so why not just pull it and put in an LN replacement and be done with it?

And while you are at it, what size is the nut on that center bolt?

[paulofto]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

Just to check it, you have done 99% of the work required to replace it, so why not just pull it and put in an LN replacement and be done with it?

And while you are at it, what size is the nut on that center bolt?

What JFP said . . . . you are on the final stretch do the IMS and the RMS while you are in there.

[FauxDiablo]

Originally Posted by paulofto

What JFP said . . . . you are on the final stretch do the IMS and the RMS while you are in there.

No reason whatsoever to do the RMS. It's never leaked (good case halves and sealing!), and I have learned to never mess with stuff like that if it isn't broken.

The IMS is a different story though. I will be opening it up soon, and if it's good, I may not replace it at this time....Still pondering it.

I do believe that the IMSB may possibly be the single most feared part of these motors, but the odds that it is good are in my favor, and I have seen WAY too much chest-beating as to who makes the best update, and a lot of those same people are throwing a lot of horror stories this way in what seems like scare-to-buy tactics at times.

I will know more after I crack-open that IMSB flange.

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by FauxDiablo

No reason whatsoever to do the RMS. It's never leaked (good case halves and sealing!), and I have learned to never mess with stuff like that if it isn't broken.

The IMS is a different story though. I will be opening it up soon, and if it's good, I may not replace it at this time....Still pondering it.

I do believe that the IMSB may possibly be the single most feared part of these motors, but the odds that it is good are in my favor, and I have seen WAY too much chest-beating as to who makes the best update, and a lot of those same people are throwing a lot of horror stories this way in what seems like scare-to-buy tactics at times.

I will know more after I crack-open that IMSB flange.

We charge customers $25 to do the RMS with the new PTFE seals that never leak, if we do them while doing an IMS retrofit. All of these cars came with Viton seals, which Porsche updated to PTFE around 7 years ago because so many of the Viton seals suddenly started leaking. I have never heard of seen a PTFE seal (which was installed correctly) that leaked, so it is a major improvement for little money.

[FauxDiablo]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

Just to check it, you have done 99% of the work required to replace it, so why not just pull it and put in an LN replacement and be done with it?

And while you are at it, what size is the nut on that center bolt?

The nut, only judging from the photo (lol) appears to be about 14mm.

Not sold on a certain update bearing yet.

Actually, I am leaning towards the Pelican "replace-again-when-you-do-the-next clutch" bearing if I find a brittle seal issue...and if the seals are still intact/supple, I may just wrap it back up...or I may even go with the Nachi bearing that has a higher heat resistance in the seals. Not sure yet.

It's too bad that an oblong/oval-roller-shaped bearing is not available...it would be at home in that position and give a little bit of yield against a torsional "wobble", unlike the standard roller bearing, and be able to take more of a load unlike a standard ball bearing. Sigh.

There is another issue that is never brought up .... "German engineering" does not necessarily add credence to "German assembled"...they have cars there that were built after noon on a Friday as well. ... wasn't even assembled in Germany. It was assembled in a country that is more in-line with Russia than Germany.... alot more Fridays in Finland if you catch my drift.

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by FauxDiablo

The nut, only judging from the photo (lol) appears to be about 14mm.

Not sold on a certain update bearing yet.

Actually, I am leaning towards the Pelican "replace-again-when-you-do-the-next clutch" bearing if I find a brittle seal issue...and if the seals are still intact/supple, I may just wrap it back up...or I may even go with the Nachi bearing that has a higher heat resistance in the seals. Not sure yet.

It's too bad that an oblong/oval-roller-shaped bearing is not available...it would be at home in that position and give a little bit of yield against a torsional "wobble", unlike the standard roller bearing, and be able to take more of a load unlike a standard ball bearing. Sigh.

There is another issue that is never brought up .... "German engineering" does not necessarily add credence to "German assembled"...they have cars there that were built after noon on a Friday as well. ... wasn't even assembled in Germany. It was assembled in a country that is more in-line with Russia than Germany.... alot more Fridays in Finland if you catch my drift.

Reason I asked about the center bolt nut was it look large in your photo, and I was concerned it was a 22MM.

Roller bearings are available, but have no installed base and have not shown engine builders of note any advantage over hybrid (read ceramic) ball bearings. If you really want to do this right, put in an IMS Solution; oil fed and no moving parts, the only known permanent retrofit.

[FauxDiablo]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

Reason I asked about the center bolt nut was it look large in your photo, and I was concerned it was a 22MM.

Roller bearings are available, but have no installed base and have not shown engine builders of note any advantage over hybrid (read ceramic) ball bearings. If you really want to do this right, put in an IMS Solution; oil fed and no moving parts, the only known permanent retrofit.

According to my Carfax, and a quick call to the dealer, it was found that the IMS seal had been replaced at less than 5K miles.