To DIY or NOT to DIY

[nicecar]

My upper and lower control arms on the front of my 02 S need replaced. Is this something that is fairly easy to do? I have tools jacks etc. If it was wheel bearings or coolant tank I would be more likely to let the indy do it from taking the advice from many on this forum. The procedure does not look too difficult, however alot of tricks are omitted from the instructions on Pelican. IE... putting the wheel under load for aligning the holes properly. Also on the instruction guide subject is the Bentley the way to go if you were to only have 1 choice? Thanks in advance.

[Pdwight]

DIY best way to learn how your car really ticks

[jb92563]

I think what you are really asking is whether its an easy enough job for the average DIY'er and wont take too long.

If you have a backup vehicle and time to work on it then DIY is a good choice as you will save money, learn the anatomy of the car and have some fun with your hobby.

If you don't have the time, or don't particularly enjoy wrenching on the car and have funds to spare or need your car in a hurry then leave it with the Indy.

I don't feel that its any more difficult than most other DIY projects on the car.

I would go with the Bentley Manual as you can view many if not all the 101 Boxster Projects online in the Pelican Tech articles for free.

[itsnotanova]

After our many conversations, I'm pretty sure you can do it. These cars generally are easy to work on.

[steved0x]

I am about to DIY the diagonal control arms (aka trailing arms, caster control arms), in the backs it is just 2 bolts, in the fronts it is the same two bolts with a couple of other bolts that may need to come off to remove a plate. It sounds likes like you are also replacing the LCAs as well? I have heard of folks doing the LCAs and getting away without an alignment, but the Bentley says an alignment is required when replacing that one. Also for that one, when tightening it to the body, the suspension needs to be loaded. In the front there is a little triangle mark that you can align (per the ebay pdf service manuals) by jacking the front suspension if you can't put it on the ground, but the back doesn't seem to have those marks.

I'm going to do mine in the next week and will report back.

Steve

Edit: one thing the Bentley says is that you should replace the locking nuts. I may take one down to Fastenal to see if they have an equivalent; otherwise I may place an order from one of the parts vendors. In that case, maybe I will buy a bunch and have some available for other folks so they can get some and save on some shipping charges The part number is 90038001201 and it just looks like an M 14x1.5 locking nut with a shoulder. (For the smaller one from the LCA, that is M 12x1.5, 90038001201 )

[Luckyed]

Originally Posted by nicecar

My upper and lower control arms on the front of my 02 S need replaced. Is this something that is fairly easy to do? I have tools jacks etc. If it was wheel bearings or coolant tank I would be more likely to let the indy do it from taking the advice from many on this forum. The procedure does not look too difficult, however alot of tricks are omitted from the instructions on Pelican. IE... putting the wheel under load for aligning the holes properly. Also on the instruction guide subject is the Bentley the way to go if you were to only have 1 choice? Thanks in advance.

Where are you in Florida?
I need to do the rear control arms of my 2001.
If the cars aren't too far apart, perhaps we could knock out both one afternoon? +
Just a thought.....

[nicecar]

Thanks everyone my questions are answered as well as more additional advice.(thanks Steve!) I am in Neptune Beach east of Jax. I would love to get together for the project will P.M. Yes woody I thought I could do the arms just wanted more advice. It always seem that I get all worked up for nothing. Any work I do, when completed I cant believe I wasted so much time stressing. On another note what oil and tyres should I use?

[jdraupp]

Originally Posted by nicecar

on another note what oil and tyres should i use?

noooooooooo!

[steved0x]

Originally Posted by nicecar

On another note what oil should I use?

Olive, but *only* the expensive imported brands.

[steved0x]

I am in Lake City, FL, where I-10 & I-75 cross. About an hour west of Jax and 45 minutes north of g-Ville. I am up for a car day and I have a jack, jack stands, ramps, and basic tools. Where are you guys?

[dghii]

You can do this! In the end it's just nuts and bolts. Take your time and take pics. An impact wrench makes things lots easier too.

[nicecar]

Sent P.M. to you

[spendy]

In addition to the nuts and bolts, you'll need to pop the LCA ball joint out of the bearing carrier. Might want to make sure you have the appropriate tool for that.

Not the only option, but I've had good luck using one like this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/otc-6297

[nicecar]

Originally Posted by spendy

In addition to the nuts and bolts, you'll need to pop the LCA ball joint out of the bearing carrier. Might want to make sure you have the appropriate tool for that.

Not the only option, but I've had good luck using one like this: OTC Ball Joint Separators 6297 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

will a pickle fork do?

[dghii]

Pickle fork is fine if you plan on replacing the arm with the joint as the fork can easily tear the ball joint boot.

[itsnotanova]

Harbor Freight has those ball joint separators too. Be careful using them because they can mess up the end of the treads if the ball joint is in tight. It's best to loosen the nut all the way to the end of the treads before using the separator. Break the ball joint loose and then finish removing the nut.

[jakeru]

Originally Posted by itsnotanova

Harbor Freight has those ball joint separators too. Be careful using them because they can mess up the end of the treads if the ball joint is in tight. It's best to loosen the nut all the way to the end of the treads before using the separator. Break the ball joint loose and then finish removing the nut.

The harbor freight ball joint separator worked very well for me when I rebuilt my 986 suspension recently. It does need to have its inside edge enlarged a bit (by something like 2-4mm diameter or so, if I recall correctly) to fit around the ball joints. (IIRC, it fits perfectly unmodified around the tie rod ends, though, but modified for use with the ball joints, it still works fine on the tie rod ends, so I do recommend the enlargement modification if you buy one.). A good tool for enlarging it is a die grinder with carbide burr, but probably an angle grinder would also do the job. I used calipers to measure the enlargement required.

Greasing the threads and contact surfaces on the tool with an extreme pressure grease (I used moly CV joint grease) makes it work very smoothly and it will probably last forever.

Also, be sure to seat the tool fully before applying clamping pressure. (You will not be able to do this on the ball joint unless you modify as described.) Using penetrating oil can also help.

[CoBeerToad]

Something about suspension just scares the hell out of me. I just replaced every suspension part, but I had a shop do it. Unfortunately, it was a shop that was not too familiar with Porsche so I have to bring it to another shop this spring to fix what didn't get fixed right. Lesson learned.

Just want to get back behind the wheel. Been limping this car around for 2 years and I'm starting to get ugly thoughts of getting rid of it. Spring needs to hurry up before I do something stupid.

[nicecar]

I didnt start diy until I saw who was working on the car as well as taking so long and being at the mercy of others. It scared me but always felt stupid for being stressed after diy completed, I fix my boat, chevy, kids, myself, pool, washer and yard so I figured if man made it man can fix it. As my redneck R.V. guy told me " it aint the f nnn space shuttle. So know i fix the p car and now I do the land rover as well. Buy it, drive it, break it, fix it ,repeat