You made a jumper with one very thin blade to jump the FP relay terminals? Comes right on even with no key in ignition. Mine made a clunk but no fuel pressure. New one whirls smooth. You must know you're jumping the correct slots. If no pressure on the rail with correct slots jumped, it's FP. Make sure you go by the tiny numbers on the relay base, not the diagram on top of the relay.

There is an ohm test for the CPS. Don't remember the values off hand. They were posted in a thread I had about FP issues.

Suggestions:
1. Charge your battery 11.67v is a bit feeble.
Measure actual battery voltage at the batt terminals- is there a voltage drop at the FP relay?
Just thinking you may have poor connections between the battery and FP relay so that you get way less than 11.67v under load. Easy to eliminate as a potential source of problems.
2.If the relay did not click when you jumpered it:
1. relay is defective,or
2. connected wrong terminals
3. Remove relay and test. New relay is $10 :K.A.E. 2.408.120 ? 99661510100 For $10 at this stage why not just fit a new one?
See Pelican's excellent info: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/22-FUEL-Fuel_Pump/images_med/Pic2.jpg
4. If you know what you are doing, connect FP direct to battery with a fused jumper cable.Polarity !

I didn't jump the relay I mean I jumped it at the box. It is a new relay. That's the first thing I did. The battery could be drained from me trying to start it so much.

Anything more than 9v 'should' operate the relay but why try? Just charge the battery to eliminate that problem. If you are measuring 11.67v with no load, it may be misleading because poor connections will show massive voltage drop when you draw power.
Did you bench test & compare the new & old relay?

How would I benchtest relay?

If you bought a new one, move on to the next possible issue. That's a done deal.

Google.#1 hit fo : "relay 12v test jumper bench"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3JB63ebFfgU
Make sure the part number on your new relay is correct.If not, test the old relay and if good use it.
K.A.E. 2.408.120 or generic alternative verify for your yr.

Its either spark or fuel. To check for spark remove the little rubber hose that connects to the throttle body behind the throttle plate. At the hole, squirt wd40 into the throttle body at the same time you crank the motor. If the motor sputters and runs for a moment you have spark and the problem is fuel.

If you get no sputter then its a spark problem. Unless you have other ignition related codes, suspect the cps.

I had no CEL with a dead FP. Just dead car. Perfect advise to check spark and rule that out.

Don't throw parts at it. Diagnose it. Where are you at in the process?

Took relay out and jumped spiral 30 and 87 at the box. Turned ignition on and checked for pressure on the fuel rail no pressure. Checked slot 30 at the box for power and there was power. Determined the FP was getting power and not running. Sounds like bad FP no? AM I premature in the diagnosis?

ok i am 90 percent sure it is the fuel pump. there is power going to the pump and the pump is grounded. However, i my journey to get to the pump i was taking the black hose off the sending unit )not the fuel line hoses) and i broke the white nipple off the fuel sender. Does that mean the fuel sender is done and I need a new one? From what i gather that could have been a $280 mistake.

Thanks

The plastic nipples become brittle with age/heat.
Read this?
Porsche Boxster Fuel Pump Replacement - 986 / 987 (1997-08) - Pelican Parts Technical Article
Buy the fuel pump kit:
Pelican Parts
Or call Woody at Itsanova for a used part?

I read the write up, don't think i missed anything. So it's time for a new fuel sender. How is the pump that comes with the kit. Looks like it got bad reviews. Intsonova is closed for now. He is dealing with huge fires in his area.

How the hell do you get the fuel lines from the pump off the fuel sender? I am cutting my hands up trying.

Thanks

If you are having trouble with the hose clamps(?) try a hose clamp pliers kit + a Mayhew remote pliers kit?
Something like this -but check with other Forum members:
Amazon.com: Generic 9 Pc Hose Clamp Pliers Kit Ratchet Pipes Removal Tools Swivel Jaw: Automotive
You also need long "hose-gripper' pliers:
Sunex 3703 11-Inch Long Hose Gripper Pliers Set, 3-Piece - Needle Nose Pliers - Amazon.com
For your hands you need "high dexterity" mechanics gloves.Kevlar is not necessary but:
High Dexterity Work Gloves - Flex Gloves for Demanding Work Conditions
If you have big hands, jobs like this are impossible.
You need very small ,strong hands with long ,strong fingers and a surgeons dexterity-and inexhaustible patience. I have these deformities/quirks and my fellow mechanics sometimes beg me to do such work.They no longer tease me for being skinny!
Some of these parts you can not see so try looking at this parts diagram:
Fuel Tank
Memorize it and grope around ,with your eyes closed. Once you are familiar with the layout of parts ,it is easier to select the best instrument to work with.But you have to be comfortable,calm and have a Zen approach. Yup it is a tough job.
I hope this helps and wish you luck

Here is the pic of the fuel lines. They are supposed to come off easily but i can't figure it out. How do I get these off?

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1447155116.jpg

Those connect to the fuel pump, don't they? They likely unclip from the FP.

They come off the fuel level sender. I just don't know how

Ok got fuel lines off.

Here is the part I broke. Wondering if I can glue it and if so what glue would be permanent?

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1447282209.jpg

A hack would be to use a coarse threaded brass nipple +epoxy.But if it failed after a few miles....
A good used pump may be wiser?

That's the fuel level sender. Buying a new Porsche pump but trying to save the $280 for the sender.