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-   -   Boxster Died (http://986forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=59212)

jeeper31 10-20-2015 05:37 AM

Boxster Died
 
On way to work this morning and car just stalled. Was able to coast into a parking lot. Tried to start it up. All that happens is engine cranks but doesn't turn over. Engine sounds fine when it cranks.
Any ideas? I am thinking fuel pump.

Thanks

Dan

Luv2Box 10-20-2015 06:18 AM

Same thing happened to my '99 and it was the fuel pump. Be sure to change the fuel filter, if it is the pump, as the pump sometimes pukes out metal particles, when it goes, that are lodged in the filter.

Chuck W. 10-20-2015 06:31 AM

I just Googled your issue and came up with three possibilities;

I would start with the fuel pump relay, then the fuel pump and lastly the crankshaft position sensor.

Good luck and keep us posted.

jeeper31 10-20-2015 06:36 AM

Great. Thanks. Will look into those.

How hard is the pump and filter to change. I am new to working on boxsters.

DWBOX2000 10-20-2015 06:36 AM

I was reading something the other day and it mentioned a good idea to change every couple years. The relay. I might grab one just to have.
Good luck.

Retroman1969 10-20-2015 07:07 AM

It was so sudden, that's my first thought too. Pump relay. Could also be the pump, but they usually make a fair amount of noise when they're near death. Did you notice any buzzy humming or low howling noise coming from the tank area recently?

Chuck W. 10-20-2015 07:15 AM

The fuel pump relays go out so often in the 993s that it is common and recommended to keep a spare one in the glove box.

jcslocum 10-20-2015 07:30 AM

The relay can be jumpered to get things going and test. I will try to find a picture for you.

Fuel filter in under that car about there the E-brake handle is. a PIA to do as the belly pan has to come off. and a bunch of stuff has to be loosened.

Fuel pump is in the tank up front...I think.

Jump the relay and see if you hear it. Check all fuses too.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...large/Pic2.jpg

This relay is under the dash.

rick3000 10-20-2015 07:43 AM

I recently had a similar issue, which was the CPS (crankshaft position sensor). They tend to fail when hot, but work when they cool down, and rarely throw a code. If it seems to be heat related it's probably the CPS.

If not, check the fuel pump relay, you can jumper the relay or do the 'click test' (put a finger on the relay and feel if it clicks when you turn over the car). If it's not one of those, pressure test the fuel system. If the pressure is low, then it is probably the fuel pump.

You can do a preliminary fuel pressure test, which is very unreliable, by taking the fuel cap off, and have someone turn over the car and listen for a whistling/sucking sound. If you don't get one, there is no pressure being created. You could also try replacing your gas cap, if the o-ring is bad there could be a pressure issue.

Best of luck! :cheers:

jeeper31 10-20-2015 07:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Retroman1969 (Post 470431)
It was so sudden, that's my first thought too. Pump relay. Could also be the pump, but they usually make a fair amount of noise when they're near death. Did you notice any buzzy humming or low howling noise coming from the tank area recently?

Yeah there was not humming or any out of the ordinary sound coming from anywhere.

Quote:

Originally Posted by rick3000 (Post 470439)
I recently had a similar issue, which was the CPS (crankshaft position sensor). They tend to fail when hot, but work when they cool down, and rarely throw a code. If it seems to be heat related it's probably the CPS.

If not, check the fuel pump relay, you can jumper the relay or do the 'click test' (put a finger on the relay and feel if it clicks when you turn over the car). If it's not one of those, pressure test the fuel system. If the pressure is low, then it is probably the fuel pump.

You can do a preliminary fuel pressure test, which is very unreliable, by taking the fuel cap off, and have someone turn over the car and listen for a whistling/sucking sound. If you don't get one, there is no pressure being created. You could also try replacing your gas cap, if the o-ring is bad there could be a pressure issue.

Best of luck! :cheers:

It happened about a mile from my house so I wouldn't think it was a heat issue. It also sat for a while before the flat bed got there and I tried it again when I got it home. Nada.

jeeper31 10-20-2015 04:50 PM

Bought a new fuel pump relay. Car still doesn't start. That didn't works.

I am also pretty sure that I hear the fuel pump whirring she turn the key to the on position.

Timco 10-20-2015 04:56 PM

There's a test port on the fuel rail. You can turn the key on and test for fuel pressure there.

jeeper31 10-20-2015 04:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Timco (Post 470504)
There's a test port on the fuel rail. You can turn the key on and test for fuel pressure there.

How would I do that?

Timco 10-20-2015 04:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeeper31 (Post 470506)
How would I do that?

Can you take your engine top cover off? I can describe from there.

jeeper31 10-20-2015 05:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Timco (Post 470507)
Can you take your engine top cover off? I can describe from there.

Yes I can.

Timco 10-20-2015 05:40 PM

There's a silver rail on the passenger side. At the rear of that is a black cap. Take that cap off and it's a Schroeder type valve. Turn the key on but not start car, and put a rag over it and push the valve in gently. It's under significant pressure if the FP is working.

jeeper31 10-20-2015 06:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Timco (Post 470511)
There's a silver rail on the passenger side. At the rear of that is a black cap. Take that cap off and it's a Schroeder type valve. Turn the key on but not start car, and put a rag over it and push the valve in gently. It's under significant pressure if the FP is working.

Great. Thanks. Will do that tomorrow.

rick3000 10-20-2015 07:09 PM

From my research, the 986 doesn't use a regular Schroeder valve. However, the Actron CP7838 with a 0180-000-1299 adapter will fit.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/17297-testing-fuel-pressure/?p=87886

Gelbster 10-20-2015 07:27 PM

To use a generic fuel pressure tester, you may need an adapter M14x1.25 to M15x1.5
If all you need to do is test for the presence of fuel and test on a COLD engine ,the rag method should be O.K.

Retroman1969 10-20-2015 07:50 PM

Hmmmm... Mass Airflow Sensor? It can cause stall/no start.

Timco 10-20-2015 09:04 PM

Yeah, my AC tools and gauges fit perfect but it's not Schroeder. It's a similar stem type. He just needs to know yes or no.

jeeper31 10-22-2015 07:16 PM

Update:

No codes.
No fuel out of rail when ignition is on.
Strange buzzing coming from motor while ignition is on.

Any ideas? I have a video of buzzing if anybody needs to hear it.

Steve Tinker 10-22-2015 11:01 PM

Under normal conditions, the fuel pump will start only for a couple of seconds when the ignition is first switched on - this pressurises the system ready for startup. If you are hearing the fuel pump run continually with just the ignition on (engine not running) then you have a faulty pump.

jeeper31 10-23-2015 03:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steve Tinker (Post 470757)
Under normal conditions, the fuel pump will start only for a couple of seconds when the ignition is first switched on - this pressurises the system ready for startup. If you are hearing the fuel pump run continually with just the ignition on (engine not running) then you have a faulty pump.

But if the pump was running continuously wouldn't there still be pressure in the rail?

Timco 10-23-2015 04:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeeper31 (Post 470766)
But if the pump was running continuously wouldn't there still be pressure in the rail?

Yes, and he is right about the pressure in the rail. Make a jumper to jump out the slots where the fuel pump relay sits. Then it stays on. That's how I checked my dead FP.

The buzzing and clicking and whining is SAI, and the throttle self adjusting.

jeeper31 10-23-2015 05:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Timco (Post 470771)
Yes, and he is right about the pressure in the rail. Make a jumper to jump out the slots where the fuel pump relay sits. Then it stays on. That's how I checked my dead FP.

The buzzing and clicking and whining is SAI, and the throttle self adjusting.

Sorry. Confused. Who is right about the rail. I know the relay is good as I just out a new one in. What does jumping it do? What am I looking for?

SAI?

Thanks

jcslocum 10-23-2015 05:45 AM

The relay only works when the engine is cranking or running. That is why you need to jump it to get it to work for diagnosis purposes. You can't just throw parts at this problem. You really need to work at it step by step and prove each part good or bad.

Jump the relay and see if you get fire and or hear the pump running.

There is also the crank sensor to check to see if that is giving a signal to drive the pump and spark.

That can be tested with a volt/ohm meter. Have you got a good one???

Gilles 10-23-2015 06:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jcslocum (Post 470785)

There is also the crank sensor to check to see if that is giving a signal to drive the pump and spark.

That can be tested with a volt/ohm meter. Have you got a good one???

A bad crank sensor also would keep the fuel pump from getting power…

.

Timco 10-23-2015 06:05 AM

We are all kinda right.

You need to jump the terminals or slots where the relay plugs in to get constant FP power. Then you can check the rail pressure thing.

SAI is secondary air injection. It's a pump that runs for a minute or less on cold startup.

CPS (crank position sensor) is passenger side and views slots on the flywheel. Typically your tach does not move when cranked if this is bad.

jeeper31 10-23-2015 06:36 AM

So pardon my denseness. Learning as I go along.

I am going to jump the FP relay to see if the fuel pump stays on. If it does I will check the rail for pressure. If no pressure the FP is bad. If there is pressure it could be the CPS? Check that with Voltmeter or if cranking the engine and tack moves it is good?

Really sorry again. Trying to piece this all together.

Appreciate the help.

jcslocum 10-23-2015 07:13 AM

Ok you are getting there!!

Yes, get FP to run and you can usually hear it once jumped. If you hear nothing then we will know how to give better guidance.

If it's running, then I think you can almost jump directly to the crank position sensor.

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...ps2vl05ifu.jpg

The blue arrow is the actual working part of the sensor and the RED arrow is the plug to the wiring harness. I'm not certain that you can get to the plug from up top. I will look for an ohm meter reading for you.

More info:

http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/46610-hard-starting.html

jeeper31 10-28-2015 04:50 AM

Ok. Sorry been gone so long. Haven't had time to check anything out. Anyway, as I was leaving this morning I tried to start the Boxster and as it was cranking the Tach didn't move at all. Does that mean it's the Crank position sensor? If so do I need to check anything else out or just replace it?

Thanks.

jcslocum 10-28-2015 06:45 AM

It's about a 100$ part and if you can get under the car easily it is just 1 screw to remove it and then the plug. SO if you want to throw a prat at it, Parts Geek has them for $95:

1999-2002 Porsche 911 Reference Sensor - Bosch 0261210204 - - PartsGeek.com

Gelbster 10-28-2015 07:21 AM

Check for bent 'teeth'.If the CPS 'sees' a bent tooth ,it gets confused.

jeeper31 10-28-2015 08:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jcslocum (Post 471424)
It's about a 100$ part and if you can get under the car easily it is just 1 screw to remove it and then the plug. SO if you want to throw a prat at it, Parts Geek has them for $95:

1999-2002 Porsche 911 Reference Sensor - Bosch 0261210204 - - PartsGeek.com

Not really looking to just throw parts at it, especially if its something else. I could be wrong but I don't think a bad crank sensor would cause no pressure in the fuel rail.

Unless that tach not moving is a definite sign that the crank sensor is bad.

Gelbster 10-28-2015 11:06 AM

"Unless that tach not moving is a definite sign that the crank sensor is bad. "
Classic CPS failure symptom.
Heat cycling causes failure so it is a good PM choice to replace.
Then move on to fuel issues.

jeeper31 10-28-2015 11:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gelbster (Post 471454)
"Unless that tach not moving is a definite sign that the crank sensor is bad. "
Classic CPS failure symptom.
Heat cycling causes failure so it is a good PM choice to replace.
Then move on to fuel issues.

So there seems to be two different issues?

PM? (Sorry)

Gelbster 10-28-2015 11:18 AM

PM = Preventative Maintenance.
Keeping up with an M96 has to be a religion.
Pay homage with parts ,study and time. Shed blood and tears.
Ignore this at your peril.
Hell has no wrath nor expen$e like a badly maintained M96.

jcslocum 10-28-2015 11:28 AM

I "think" the CPS is what turns on the fuel pump for starting. It's a complicated sequence and dance performed by the computer, a number of things have to fall in place for there to be fire.

jeeper31 11-01-2015 04:40 AM

So here is where I am.

Jumped the relay and still no pressure at the rail. Used multimeter to test to see if getting power at terminal 30 and I am getting 11.67 V at the terminal. So I am assuming the pump is bad since it is getting power and not working. Am I correct?


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