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Boxster Died
On way to work this morning and car just stalled. Was able to coast into a parking lot. Tried to start it up. All that happens is engine cranks but doesn't turn over. Engine sounds fine when it cranks.
Any ideas? I am thinking fuel pump. Thanks Dan |
Same thing happened to my '99 and it was the fuel pump. Be sure to change the fuel filter, if it is the pump, as the pump sometimes pukes out metal particles, when it goes, that are lodged in the filter.
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I just Googled your issue and came up with three possibilities;
I would start with the fuel pump relay, then the fuel pump and lastly the crankshaft position sensor. Good luck and keep us posted. |
Great. Thanks. Will look into those.
How hard is the pump and filter to change. I am new to working on boxsters. |
I was reading something the other day and it mentioned a good idea to change every couple years. The relay. I might grab one just to have.
Good luck. |
It was so sudden, that's my first thought too. Pump relay. Could also be the pump, but they usually make a fair amount of noise when they're near death. Did you notice any buzzy humming or low howling noise coming from the tank area recently?
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The fuel pump relays go out so often in the 993s that it is common and recommended to keep a spare one in the glove box.
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The relay can be jumpered to get things going and test. I will try to find a picture for you.
Fuel filter in under that car about there the E-brake handle is. a PIA to do as the belly pan has to come off. and a bunch of stuff has to be loosened. Fuel pump is in the tank up front...I think. Jump the relay and see if you hear it. Check all fuses too. http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...large/Pic2.jpg This relay is under the dash. |
I recently had a similar issue, which was the CPS (crankshaft position sensor). They tend to fail when hot, but work when they cool down, and rarely throw a code. If it seems to be heat related it's probably the CPS.
If not, check the fuel pump relay, you can jumper the relay or do the 'click test' (put a finger on the relay and feel if it clicks when you turn over the car). If it's not one of those, pressure test the fuel system. If the pressure is low, then it is probably the fuel pump. You can do a preliminary fuel pressure test, which is very unreliable, by taking the fuel cap off, and have someone turn over the car and listen for a whistling/sucking sound. If you don't get one, there is no pressure being created. You could also try replacing your gas cap, if the o-ring is bad there could be a pressure issue. Best of luck! :cheers: |
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Bought a new fuel pump relay. Car still doesn't start. That didn't works.
I am also pretty sure that I hear the fuel pump whirring she turn the key to the on position. |
There's a test port on the fuel rail. You can turn the key on and test for fuel pressure there.
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There's a silver rail on the passenger side. At the rear of that is a black cap. Take that cap off and it's a Schroeder type valve. Turn the key on but not start car, and put a rag over it and push the valve in gently. It's under significant pressure if the FP is working.
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From my research, the 986 doesn't use a regular Schroeder valve. However, the Actron CP7838 with a 0180-000-1299 adapter will fit.
http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/17297-testing-fuel-pressure/?p=87886 |
To use a generic fuel pressure tester, you may need an adapter M14x1.25 to M15x1.5
If all you need to do is test for the presence of fuel and test on a COLD engine ,the rag method should be O.K. |
Hmmmm... Mass Airflow Sensor? It can cause stall/no start.
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Yeah, my AC tools and gauges fit perfect but it's not Schroeder. It's a similar stem type. He just needs to know yes or no.
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Update:
No codes. No fuel out of rail when ignition is on. Strange buzzing coming from motor while ignition is on. Any ideas? I have a video of buzzing if anybody needs to hear it. |
Under normal conditions, the fuel pump will start only for a couple of seconds when the ignition is first switched on - this pressurises the system ready for startup. If you are hearing the fuel pump run continually with just the ignition on (engine not running) then you have a faulty pump.
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The buzzing and clicking and whining is SAI, and the throttle self adjusting. |
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SAI? Thanks |
The relay only works when the engine is cranking or running. That is why you need to jump it to get it to work for diagnosis purposes. You can't just throw parts at this problem. You really need to work at it step by step and prove each part good or bad.
Jump the relay and see if you get fire and or hear the pump running. There is also the crank sensor to check to see if that is giving a signal to drive the pump and spark. That can be tested with a volt/ohm meter. Have you got a good one??? |
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We are all kinda right.
You need to jump the terminals or slots where the relay plugs in to get constant FP power. Then you can check the rail pressure thing. SAI is secondary air injection. It's a pump that runs for a minute or less on cold startup. CPS (crank position sensor) is passenger side and views slots on the flywheel. Typically your tach does not move when cranked if this is bad. |
So pardon my denseness. Learning as I go along.
I am going to jump the FP relay to see if the fuel pump stays on. If it does I will check the rail for pressure. If no pressure the FP is bad. If there is pressure it could be the CPS? Check that with Voltmeter or if cranking the engine and tack moves it is good? Really sorry again. Trying to piece this all together. Appreciate the help. |
Ok you are getting there!!
Yes, get FP to run and you can usually hear it once jumped. If you hear nothing then we will know how to give better guidance. If it's running, then I think you can almost jump directly to the crank position sensor. http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...ps2vl05ifu.jpg The blue arrow is the actual working part of the sensor and the RED arrow is the plug to the wiring harness. I'm not certain that you can get to the plug from up top. I will look for an ohm meter reading for you. More info: http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/46610-hard-starting.html |
Ok. Sorry been gone so long. Haven't had time to check anything out. Anyway, as I was leaving this morning I tried to start the Boxster and as it was cranking the Tach didn't move at all. Does that mean it's the Crank position sensor? If so do I need to check anything else out or just replace it?
Thanks. |
It's about a 100$ part and if you can get under the car easily it is just 1 screw to remove it and then the plug. SO if you want to throw a prat at it, Parts Geek has them for $95:
1999-2002 Porsche 911 Reference Sensor - Bosch 0261210204 - - PartsGeek.com |
Check for bent 'teeth'.If the CPS 'sees' a bent tooth ,it gets confused.
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Unless that tach not moving is a definite sign that the crank sensor is bad. |
"Unless that tach not moving is a definite sign that the crank sensor is bad. "
Classic CPS failure symptom. Heat cycling causes failure so it is a good PM choice to replace. Then move on to fuel issues. |
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PM? (Sorry) |
PM = Preventative Maintenance.
Keeping up with an M96 has to be a religion. Pay homage with parts ,study and time. Shed blood and tears. Ignore this at your peril. Hell has no wrath nor expen$e like a badly maintained M96. |
I "think" the CPS is what turns on the fuel pump for starting. It's a complicated sequence and dance performed by the computer, a number of things have to fall in place for there to be fire.
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So here is where I am.
Jumped the relay and still no pressure at the rail. Used multimeter to test to see if getting power at terminal 30 and I am getting 11.67 V at the terminal. So I am assuming the pump is bad since it is getting power and not working. Am I correct? |
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