I know there is always some head butting on here, but it keeps this most helpful forum colorful and you guys are the best when it comes to help. I'm doing Annual PM's on Dialysis equipment for the next few days to keep people alive....so it will be a few days before I can snatch the Box's shoes off and see what is really going on. I know I do have a squeal on one of my pads at very low speeds while breaking....and with very little brake pressure...once I stand on it the noise stops....so I think I need to remove the pads and re-apply adhesive to the back of the pad. I read somewhere that someone had good luck with hi-temp silicone ....might give that a try this time.
Some notifications from other forum members sent me to this thread, I know I stated before that I was out but one last post.........
KRAM, please refrain from dispensing with the mechanical advice, you clearly know not of what you speak. Continuing to do such will only put other unsuspecting forum members (who take heed to your misinformed advice) at risk of injury, it's bad enough that you relish driving the fool on public roads then feel the need brag about it on forums yet now you give advice on braking issues when you have obviously never dealt with changing pads / sensors firsthand.
To reiterate a prior reply to your phenomenal wealth of P-Car knowledge......
Kind of reminds me of a favorite Groucho Marx quote:
"He may look like an idiot and talk like an idiot but don't let that fool you. He really is an idiot."
Some notifications from other forum members sent me to this thread, I know I stated before that I was out but one last post.........
KRAM, please refrain from dispensing with the mechanical advice, you clearly know not of what you speak. Continuing to do such will only put other unsuspecting forum members (who take heed to your misinformed advice) at risk of injury, it's bad enough that you relish driving the fool on public roads then feel the need brag about it on forums yet now you give advice on braking issues when you have obviously never dealt with changing pads / sensors firsthand.
To reiterate a prior reply to your phenomenal wealth of P-Car knowledge......
Kind of reminds me of a favorite Groucho Marx quote:
"He may look like an idiot and talk like an idiot but don't let that fool you. He really is an idiot."
For Christ sake, stop acting and posting like a 10 year old.
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2003 Boxster S
| 987 Air Box | K&N Air Filter | 76mm Intake Pipe| 996 76mm TB | 997 Distribution T | Secondary Cat Delete Pipes | Borla Muffler | NHP 200 Cell Exhaust Headers |
While your feeling so childish, why don't you pop off an email to ECS Tuning with your no knowledge claim and moron video, after all they are the ones giving this information.
Grinding, pulsating and a lack of stopping power are signs of a bad brake rotor. If your brake pads have worn deep into your rotor, the lip on the outer edge of the rotor can cut into your pad wear sensors, causing a brake pad warning to appear in the instrument cluster - even if your brake pads are new. Rotors should be checked every time you service your brakes.
This thread is interesting and very applicable to me.
On Monday, 13 April 2015, as I was making my 70 mile commute home from work my brake wear indicator light came on.
When I got home I immediately when to RockAuto & Pelican Parts to order new pads, disk brake hardware kit and brake wear sensors. I had replaced my rotors, pads and sensors back in 2011 well over 100,000 miles ago. My 1999 Boxster has 242,000 miles this week.
But on Wednesday, 15 April 2015, the brake wear sensor light just went out.
I'm waiting on the pads, sensors and hardware kit. Once they arrive I will replace all the pads and sensors, but just looking at them the pads seem to have a lot of brake pad left and my rotors do not have a lip or any groves cut into them like I had when I replaced rotors in 2011.
I will update everyone once the parts arrive and I take the wheels off.
Until then my money is on a faulty/broken brake wear sensor for the Forum Member who started this thread. If the rotor is at fault, then the rotor might have cut the sensor wire due to a mis-routing of the wire harness.
Just my two-cents
MNC-I
P.S. "I thought I was the only one to get all worked up (********************in, moaning, ranting and complaining) about stuff (mostly poorly designed Porsche waterpumps, the AOS and the IMS)"
Guys, can we not have a difference of opinion without it getting personal and nasty? Armchair mechanics (myself included) will be the death of us all! Having said that, when I offer advice it it generally because I have first hand experience, not because I read something on the internet. Know what I mean?
I am very certain that the problem here will not be the rotors, but the suggestion to wait and see what the OP finds is obviously the most reasonable and sensible thing to do. I will be the first to apologize if I am wrong but truthfully, I'd like a piece of that $100 action that Timco proposed. I could use the cash!
Kram, when I said you were wrong it was not because what you propose could not possibly ever happen, only that it is highly highly unlikely to happen except in the most rare of circumstances and would definitley need contributing factors, such as improper installation, in order for it to happen. It's about as likely as getting hit by a meteorite on your way home from work. If you had actually ever done a brake job on your car I don't think you would be so vociferously defending your theory. There are several much more likely reasons for the fault.
Unlikely things DO happen. I blew out one of my clutch lines because a small shard of granite got wedged between the line and the body and sawed its way through the line from vibration over time . What were the chances of that happening? Now, if someone else told me they blew a clutch line, I would not immediately insist that it must have been because of a piece of rock getting stuck in there, at least not until I had a look at the car in question.
So, how about we wait and see and maybe even learn?
I read somewhere that someone had good luck with hi-temp silicone ....might give that a try this time.
Ooooo, that could make a real mess. Have you tried the trimmable stick-on anti-squeal pads? I think Pelican carries them. I used them and have had no problems.
(I was SO tempted to type a row of asterisks instead of "Pelican" )
Ooooo, that could make a real mess. Have you tried the trimmable stick-on anti-squeal pads? I think Pelican carries them. I used them and have had no problems.
(I was SO tempted to type a row of asterisks instead of "Pelican" )
No , I have not .....but I will get some on order right away
Guys, can we not have a difference of opinion without it getting personal and nasty? Armchair mechanics (myself included) will be the death of us all! Having said that, when I offer advice it it generally because I have first hand experience, not because I read something on the internet. Know what I mean?:
I'm not an "armchair mechanic", nobody puts a wrench to my Boxster except me. Before I do anything, I research what I'm getting ready to do and it soaks into my brain. I'm in the market for a new set of brake pads and rotors as my mods have put the performance of my car to a level that the factory brakes are not good enough for me, the rotor cutting through the wire was not of concern to me as I'm buying rotors too, however what I read stuck in my mind.
Don't pass me off as stupid.
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2003 Boxster S
| 987 Air Box | K&N Air Filter | 76mm Intake Pipe| 996 76mm TB | 997 Distribution T | Secondary Cat Delete Pipes | Borla Muffler | NHP 200 Cell Exhaust Headers |
Reread what I posted. It has nothing to do with reading the the thickness of the rotor, it has to do with the rotor being so worn out the edge of the rotor cuts the wire.
If I'm wrong, then I'm wrong, but this is what I have read from a very well respected Porsche parts seller. I didn't just pull it out of the air.
That makes sense, my old rotors were worn pretty bad and they had a major lip on them. And it is right at the top of the pad. It would have to be a heck of a worn rotor.
"You're a funny guy Sully. I like you. That's why I'm going to kill you last!"
(10 forum points to identify the quote - no Google cheating!)
Commando. Easy.
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'04 Boxster S 50 Jahre 550 Spyder Anniversary Special Edition, 851 of 1953, 6-sp, IMS/RMS, GT Metallic silver, cocoa brown leather SOLD to member Broken Linkage.
'08 VW Touareg T-3 wife's car
'13 F150 Super Crew long bed 4x4 w/ Ego Boost
I'm not an "armchair mechanic", nobody puts a wrench to my Boxster except me. Before I do anything, I research what I'm getting ready to do and it soaks into my brain. I'm in the market for a new set of brake pads and rotors as my mods have put the performance of my car to a level that the factory brakes are not good enough for me, the rotor cutting through the wire was not of concern to me as I'm buying rotors too, however what I read stuck in my mind.
Don't pass me off as stupid.
Easy there pal - no offense intended. You'll notice I included myself in that category, and I too do virtually all of my own work. It was meant to differentiate us from the pro's, like JFP for instance. Would you have preferred the term "backyard mechanic"? "Amateur" perhaps? Maybe after you've actually done a brake job, (like the rest of us that have contributed to this thread) you'll have a little bit better idea of what you are talking about. I never said you were stupid, just mis-informed, and there's no shame in that.
Easy there pal - no offense intended. You'll notice I included myself in that category, and I too do virtually all of my own work. It was meant to differentiate us from the pro's, like JFP for instance. Would you have preferred the term "backyard mechanic"? "Amateur" perhaps? Maybe after you've actually done a brake job, (like the rest of us that have contributed to this thread) you'll have a little bit better idea of what you are talking about. I never said you were stupid, just mis-informed, and there's no shame in that.
Yeah backyard mechanic I am, not by trade, just enjoyment of knowing the job was done right and with care. I've watched several video's on changing 986 Boxster pads, has to be the easiest brake pad change I've ever seen. Like you said, to mess that up would be hard to do. When I had my winter tires installed I checked my rotors and I have about a 1/8" lip at the edge and it's very thin, like a knife, could cut your finger on it if you wanted to. What I read made sense to me at that time just from observing my own rotors.
I've been doing a lot of research on rotors and ceramic brake pads. Just haven't found a combo I like yet.
I did email ECS about what they have on their site and pointed them to this thread. Will be interesting to see their reply.
Anyways, I'm good. Love to learn.
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2003 Boxster S
| 987 Air Box | K&N Air Filter | 76mm Intake Pipe| 996 76mm TB | 997 Distribution T | Secondary Cat Delete Pipes | Borla Muffler | NHP 200 Cell Exhaust Headers |
This is a downhill topic like oil changes, but I have EBC Red Stuff on my Porsche now and for many years on my E36, work great and seem to last forever
This is a downhill topic like oil changes, but I have EBC Red Stuff on my Porsche now and for many years on my E36, work great and seem to last forever
I've looked at those, price is decent on them and would look slick with my red calipers.
Also for you guys in the know how. Do the Brake Pad Damping Plates need to be replaced when I change the rotors and brake pads? Never saw them replaced in the videos I have watched.
My car
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