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Old 03-08-2015, 08:03 PM   #1
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Sir Tool usage and tips

I have a Sir B90 tool that should be in my hands tomorrow or the next day. I have never used one to pull a rear (or front for that matter) bearing, any tips or coaching will be greatly appreciated. In addition which plate to use on the rear ? are they numbered or ??

I have the flange out and have been trying unsuccessfully to pull the bearing with a harbour freight bearing tool...even with heat it will not budge. I intend on getting this side (passenger) complete before I start on the drivers side...I should know much better how to accomplish the task by then. I also hope to write a DIY for bearing replacement on the boxster to help anyone else who goers down this road...so come on if you have done this give me some tips and lets get a more complete DIY available to help others.....we had 65 deg here today and sunny I miss my car and want it back on the road soon....but I intend on taking my time and doing it right.

As always thanks in advance

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Old 03-09-2015, 03:09 AM   #2
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I did one 2 years ago following Pelican's diy and it was no problem. Their instructions are great as is the 101 projects for your boxster book.
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Old 03-09-2015, 03:59 AM   #3
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I want to do one without pulling the hub and having to realign the car. I have the 101 projects, it was my second purchase after the 986, while a wealth of knowledge is right there in the book there are some things left out. Im sure this was a size constraint to keep the book from being 1500 pages.
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Old 03-09-2015, 04:12 AM   #4
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I used the SIR tool on a front bearing a few years ago, and had no major problems. And I'm no seasoned mechanic. The Box wasn't my DD, so I could take my time--so I completed the project over a few days. There was a time or two where I was scratchin' my head, figuring out how to assemble the various components of the tool, but it all came together.
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Old 03-09-2015, 07:49 AM   #5
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Fronts are very easy. Loosen the big 32mm nut before jacking the car up. pull the caliper rotor and associated cables etc. Remove the top drop link mount so that the hub can slide down the shock. Pull it down and you should have enough wiggle room to remove the stub axle/speed sensor wheel thing. Once that is out you can use the SIR tool to pull the old bearing and press in a new one. Pop the little wheel thing back in, Push the hub back up the shock and put everything back.

Rears are a little trickier. start as per the fronts loosening the 32mm nut, removing the caliper and rotor etc. Then the best way I found without disturbing the alignment is to use a ball joint splitter to pop the control arm and A arm joints off the hub, remove the drop link top mount and slide the hub down the shock. This should give you enough wiggle room to pull the drive shaft out of the hub.

Don't try and use a pickle fork to separate the ball joints, it will wreck the rubber. use a tool like the one below. very easy and quick.

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Old 03-09-2015, 08:04 AM   #6
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Yes, don't use cheap crap tools like the one showed above.

If you have the opportunity aks a local workshop if you can lend a professional one. Or if you have a do it yourself workshop in your region lend the tool from them. I did it that way.
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Old 03-09-2015, 09:06 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smallblock454 View Post
Yes, don't use cheap crap tools like the one showed above.

If you have the opportunity aks a local workshop if you can lend a professional one. Or if you have a do it yourself workshop in your region lend the tool from them. I did it that way.
Why don't you enlighten us all as to what a professional ball joint separator looks like?

This is the same tool you will borrow from a parts store or wherever. It's not a precision tool, its a simple lever with a bolt that you use 4 times in the lifetime of the car (unless you race like I do and replace these thing every season). Why would you need anything else?
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Old 03-09-2015, 10:56 AM   #8
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I have one of these heavy duty tools that I bought from NAPA a few years ago, use it on the Alfa Romeo, Fiat X1/9, Volvo V70, Cayman and it works great!

If I remember correctly, Napa offers a standard duty and a heavy duty tool, buy the heavy duty one...

[/QUOTE]

Last edited by Gilles; 03-09-2015 at 11:00 AM.
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Old 03-09-2015, 01:31 PM   #9
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The Axle is already out

I'm using the SIR tool to pull the rear wheel bearing in place, not trying to start a which tool is best thread.

Thanks
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Old 03-09-2015, 03:41 PM   #10
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Just completed this on the rear passenger side using the Harbor Freight tool, without taking the wheel carrier off, just like you are trying. Choosing the correct size adapter is important. Not only for pulling the inner half out, but for 'pushing' the hub all the way in. I couldn't get my hub all the way, then I discovered I had picked an adapter that interfered with the hub.

The biggest challenge is getting the lower ball joint back in the wheel carrier at re-assembly. It has to be lined up at an odd angle that doesn't make getting it in easy. I have a small portable hydraulic ram that helped in pressing down on that control arm, which made it easier to align the ball joint.
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Old 03-09-2015, 05:04 PM   #11
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Very helpful tip for diy guys trying to use generic tools.
Thanks
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Old 03-09-2015, 07:33 PM   #12
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A question

Why would you need to remove the lower ball joint if pulling and pressing the bearing with the hub in place ?

I tried with my Harbor Freights but it will not budge, I took a new bearing and matched a plate up with it to be sure it was not too large. I tried PB Blaster and let it soak for 2 days, I tried leaving the harbor freight unit on and very tight and let it set for 2 days to see if it might loosen up...but nothing. It feels like it locked on a solid piece of metal with absolutely no give at all.
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Old 03-10-2015, 06:15 AM   #13
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On the 2003 S, removing the ball joint was the only way I had to get the drive axle out.

You should be using an adapter SMALLER than the bearing to remove it. There is a flange on the inboard side of the wheel carrier that keeps the bearing from moving. if you are using an adapter that is the same size as the outer diameter of the bearing, you are up against that flange, not the bearing. Go down a few sizes and try again.
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Old 03-10-2015, 06:34 AM   #14
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Remove the triangular aluminum brace and you do not have to do that. That is one of the things I would put in my DIY.
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Old 03-10-2015, 06:33 PM   #15
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Got the bearing out

A big thanks to Dan, I was using a plate that was too large it was bottoming out on the ridge in the back of the bearing. I found one that would work and the Harbor Freight puller pulled it like a champ. Then the longer Sir B90 came in and it did not have the correct size plate to pull the bearing, just the flange so I will tackle that another time. At least now I am making progress, If my mistakes can help any other folks I am glad to go through the misery as a learning process.

My hub this afternoon after the pull



Ps what is a good aluminum cleaner I can use on this hub to help clean it up before reassembly ?
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Old 03-14-2015, 08:24 PM   #16
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Update

Have both bearings pulled and new bearings installed. I have the passenger axle rebooted and installed, wow the new boots are tight but I feel better for taking the time to do this. The smoking gun was the drivers side bearing..it was in horrible condition. A friend has a 20 ton Harbor Freight press and it made quick work of separating the flange from the bearing that came apart during the pull on both sides. The Harbor Freight bearing press and puller works like a champ if you use the right size plate, the new bearings were given a light coat of anti seize after being frozen for a week in the freezer, they pressed in slick as a button....starting to feel good about this long task.
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Old 03-18-2015, 08:58 PM   #17
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Finished

Got it all back together today and drove it. It is so quiet you can actually carry on a conversation now with the top up. I would up doing the entire job with the Harbor Freight tool and a large bearing separator also from Harbor Freight. If you are going to do this job choose the plates carefully . I still have to do the front bearings but they can wait a little while. The triangular brace/cover int he rear came out easy and went back just as easy with all the holes lining up like clockwork. I want to thank all those who offered advise and help.

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