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Old 03-15-2006, 12:04 PM   #1
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Review;Motive Euro Bleeder

Well after ordering the Motive Products Euro Power Bleeder and Ate Super Blue Racing Brake Fluid(1 Litre) it was time to flush the brakes. You simple use a turkey baster to get as much old brake fluid of the resevoir and fill with new fluid,putting all extra Ate fluid in the power bleeder. You then attach the bleeder to the brake resevoir and pump the power bleeder a few times to build up pressure to push the brake fluid through the lines(this makes bleeding the brakes a one man job). Simple attach surgical tubing(came with Power Bleeder) to the bleeder nipple. You then use a 11mm wrench and turn it counter clockwise and watch the old fluid come through until a steady clean line of blue fluid is seen. Turn the bleeder nipple clockwise to close the line and TADA your done,now time to clean up. I spent $75 on the Power Bleeder and Ate Super Blue Fluid. Dealership wants $150 to bleed brakes,I just stuck it to them. The bleeder will save you tons of money in the future if you dont mind getting a little dirty. I dont know about you but spending $75 the first year, and $15 every other after for a litre of brake fluid sounds alot better to me then $150 at the stealership. From start to finish it took me about 2 hours because I am VERY clean about my work and my dad bchites whenever I leave a spot on the garage floor.

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Old 03-15-2006, 12:41 PM   #2
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Hi,

Good Job! I hope you also bled the Clutch Slave Cylinder too because they share the same reservoir and you don't want the old Fluid in the Clutch Hydraulics to contaminate the new Fluid and also, it's possible to get Air into the system.

I've used the Motec Bleeder for several years on a number of Cars and it works quite well. But, I recommend that you get the Swivel Adapter for the Cap. The OEM Motive Cap does not swivel, meaning that to screw it on, you need to rotate the entire Bleeder, very inconvenient when filled and also increases the risk of getting some Fluid on the Paintwork, especially when removing it. I think Motive charges something like $45-$50 for it, but you can get it for $24.95 (+S/H) from Zims Autotechnik - www.zimsautotechnik.com or: http://www.zimsautotechnik.com/acatalog/Metal_Swivel_Cap_for_Motive_Products_Power_Bleeder .html . Makes working with the Motive a lot easier. Well worth the expense...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99
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Old 03-15-2006, 05:01 PM   #3
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"I just stuck it to them"

Sticking it to the man feels good.

However, you are a Porsche owner, and to much of the world around you, YOU are the man. So in essence you stuck it to yourself, just like the cell phone commercial!
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Old 03-16-2006, 05:19 AM   #4
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I almost feel sorry for the Man. But then I remember that He will more than make up for your lost revenue when the next guy pulls into the shop with a soft pedal from bleeding his brakes with a snow scraper pushing on the brake pedal instead of using a power bleeder.
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Old 03-16-2006, 06:04 AM   #5
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Hi,

Just a reminder when flushing your Brake Fluid. Make sure you also bleed/flush the Clutch Hydraulics at the same time. On the Boxster, these two systems share the same fluid reservoir and failing to flush both systems will result in contaminating the new fluid. True, without doing this you'll still be better off than before, because you got most (say 60/40) of the old fluid out, but you will shorten it's useful life. I checked the Dealer Service Procedure and this is not listed as a To Do, which surprises me quite a bit, but I suppose they feel the effect is minmal since the Clutch MC draws fluid from the reservoir only as needed and doesn't circulate.

In a Car without ABS, the Brake Fluid sits fairly stagnant in the Brake lines, but with ABS, the Fluid is circulated through the system by the ABS pump, so the Crap gets circulated along with it, although the fluid in the Clutch Hydraulics does tend to be stagnant. Be sure to bleed from each Caliper (starting from the Caliper furthest away from the Reservoir - Left Rear and work your way to the closest) to remove any bad Fluid which can be sitting in each. Hope this helps...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99
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Old 03-16-2006, 06:21 AM   #6
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Jim, how do you bleed the clutch line and slave?
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Old 03-16-2006, 06:36 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronzi
I almost feel sorry for the Man. But then I remember that He will more than make up for your lost revenue when the next guy pulls into the shop with a soft pedal from bleeding his brakes with a snow scraper pushing on the brake pedal instead of using a power bleeder.
Can you really use a snow scraper? I use a 2 foot carpenter's level between the brake pedal and the bottom of the steering wheel. Works great for checking one's brake lamps when no friend is there to help.

We got no snow here. So no snow scrapers can be found. Sky scrapers we got. Snow scrapers are totally foriegn to this part of the world.
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Old 03-16-2006, 06:41 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by Adam
Jim, how do you bleed the clutch line and slave?
Hi,

It's simple and if Flushing/Bleeding the Brakes, you're already halfway there. The Slave Cylinder (at the upper left of the Tranny) has the same type of Bleed Nipple as the Brake Calipers do.

First, you want to raise the Car securely. Then fill the Reservoir to the MAX line with fresh Brake Fluid (DOT4), fill and attach the Brake Bleeder.

Now, you press the Clutch Pedal to the Floor and hold it in place with a Stick, Sno-Scraper (sorry Ronzi - couldn't resist) or anything which will hold the Pedal to the Floor, and then pump up the Power Bleeder to no more than 22 psi (I recommend 15-18 psi for an older Car as too much pressure can hurt the seals).

Then go under the Car and attach a piece of plastic tubing to the Bleed Nipple on the Slave Cylinder which is at the upper left side of the Transmission and into a catch bottle. Be sure to immerse the Tube end in fluid in the catch bottle to prevent drawing any air into the system.

Then you open the Bleeder Nipple and allow the Fluid to run out into the Bottle until it is clean and clear of any bubbles. Then close the Nipple, release the Pedal and de-pressurize the Bleeder and remove it, reinstall the Reservoir Cap - you're done.

If you're Flushing/Bleeding the Brakes, there's no need to do anything except push the Pedal to the Floor and swing over to the Slave Cylinder Bleed Nipple as your last task. Will add maybe 5-10 min. to the Brake Bleed/Flush, you already have the Power Bleeder out and filled with Fluid, etc., so it's worth it. Hope this helps...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

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