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Old 12-13-2013, 10:05 AM   #1
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Talking Been lurking, finally bought a 986!

Just made my account today, after buying a 2001 986 Base last night, 49.5k miles. Been lurking around the forum before, learning what I could.

Clutch is roasted, left rear tire is leaking. Everything else seems solid.

Any recommendations on clutches? Since I'm putting new tires, I'm thinking of new rims, any recommendations or sales you know of? I tried looking a little bit about a guide for wheels in the search function but couldn't find any.

Looking for information on largest backspacing and width my baby supports to get some more rubber on the ground.



Car came with a hardtop, haven't checked to see if the soft-top works yet, it is friggin cold in Chicago.

More pictures to come!

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Old 12-13-2013, 10:28 AM   #2
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Congrats on the car. Just gat mine a few month ago. Sin e you are doing the clutch you should go ahead and do the IMS. it's pretty much all the same work you just need the part. Do a search and you will find a ton of info on the topic. Enjoy the car. They are a blast to drive.
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Old 12-13-2013, 11:01 AM   #3
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+Porsche 9 re the ims, clutch and rear main seal. Welcome to the forum.

Chicago gets lots of snow I believe. Similar to Edmonton. Not a specialist on wheels but I believe that the narrower the tire in winter the better control you will have. Summer tires can be wider as you don't have the contamination to deal with. I have an old set of phone dial rims which I use for winter tires. Just destroyed a blizzak tire so I have ordered two Pirelli Sottozero winter tires for the rear. I did not have a lot of choice regarding what was available but apparently it is Porsche recommended. All season tires do not cut it with 3 inches of snow.I have just proven that with the recent purchase of Michelin Pilot sport + a/s tires. Has to be winter tires.

In the back of the Porsche operator's manual is the recommended size for winter tires. If you want to go with other sizes then run it by the members here and they will tell you whether it will fit or not.

I notice your car is black. Mine is too. I spend a lot of $$$ at the wand carwash.Mine is a 2001 Box base with 40 k miles.
Cheers, Guy
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Old 12-13-2013, 11:34 AM   #4
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+1 on the IMS while you are in there. I would personally wait on any significant non-essential mods. Buying these cars is a bit of a crap shoot, and I'm guessing you did not get an extensive PPI prior to purchase. The first few month to get it sorted out can be expensive and may even make some question long-term ownership.
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Old 12-13-2013, 11:59 AM   #5
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Not much of a ppi, I wasn't too worried with a 49.5k mileage car.

I will talk to my mechanic about the IMS while doing the clutch. I'm going to go a step above OEM for the clutch probably.

I wasn't planning on driving it during the winter really... I feel like I would get in trouble..

The paint is pretty good, no hail damage and any scratches can be buffed out. I feel a Chicago winter would be too harsh on paint?

Current check list to budget for:

Struts
Bushings (if need be)
Brembos
Tires / Rims
Headers
Exhaust

I want to be stupid and put a turbo in it in a few years... pushing 5-10 psi only though.


Any other considerations if I wanted to drive in the winter? I do have the hard top that came with the car!
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Last edited by alanqning; 12-13-2013 at 12:02 PM.
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Old 12-13-2013, 12:26 PM   #6
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Consideration in winter?

You will get stone chips on the nose of the car.
I use Mobil 1 synthetic oil 0w 40.
Starts well in cold weather. I keep the Box in the garage but it is not heated.
Hope you have heated seats!
Hardtop should be good in winter but not entirely necessary.
I drive in max 3 inches of snow otherwise becomes a snowplough - snow gets into the front radiator intakes and I don't like to hear the snow scraping the bottom of the car.
And I say it again - need good snow tires for traction but never been stuck yet.

As the above poster says it is easy to spend several $k on the car replacing stuff. Graduate the spending and make sure it is the car you want to have long term.
Enjoy, G.
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Old 12-13-2013, 12:35 PM   #7
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I had budgeted $14,000 for the car, and bought the car for $10,300.

so $3,500 to spend (after Illinois taxes me $200).

I have a 2005 Camry Le that I'm driving now in the winter

I've been reading into the IMS issue a little (since I first started looking at Boxsters) it seems like most of the cases was in the pre-2000 models, and still it happened early on usually. Should I be worried at 49,500 miles still?
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Old 12-13-2013, 12:48 PM   #8
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You might want to consider just going to an S before spending money on a turbo. Likely to be cheaper and you get a lot of other upgrades like brakes that now match your new found speed.
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Old 12-13-2013, 01:04 PM   #9
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+1 on Porsche9, the S model will have your goodies (brakes, 3.2L motor) you're looking for especially if you find one with the ROW 030 suspension. IMHO I would can the turbo idea, youll find threads on here about how this era motor doesn't play nice with turbos.

I've noticed that you can easily spend thousands and get mild HP gains. I choose to stay in the hundreds for the smaller gains. Like desnorkeling, headers, midpipes, etc.

Congrats on your purchase though.
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Old 12-13-2013, 01:17 PM   #10
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Fine, you (and my buddies) have convinced me enough that I'll can the turbo idea.

Honestly, I'm just a little giddy with car right now, thinking about a million things I want to do to it that I can't afford or have the time for right now.

Intake and Exhausts modifications will be sufficient enough for now to get my hands dirty.

Anyone here around Chicago?
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Old 12-13-2013, 07:55 PM   #11
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Congrats on your new car. I'm as happy with my car as I was the day I bought it.

As long as we're spending your money, add a motor mount to your list. ~$120 bucks and your car needs it given its mileage. Easy fix...about an hour labor. Also add a new ignition switch (electrical ~$10) to one of you parts orders. No need to install right now but you'll want one on hand when your fails.

Best thing to do is look at the maintenance that is due at 60K miles and start knocking out the things that need to be done if no records exist of previous work.

Enjoy!
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Old 12-13-2013, 08:17 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alanqning View Post
Fine, you (and my buddies) have convinced me enough that I'll can the turbo idea.

Honestly, I'm just a little giddy with car right now, thinking about a million things I want to do to it that I can't afford or have the time for right now.

Intake and Exhausts modifications will be sufficient enough for now to get my hands dirty.

Anyone here around Chicago?
Downers Grove. Just got mine last week.
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Old 12-14-2013, 02:36 AM   #13
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Northwest Indiana here. Just took mine into get AOS changed. I'd throw that in the replacement ring with the water pump. If you don't already have a great indy mechanic I highly recommend Kurts German Autowerks in Homer Glen. Fantastic mechanic incredibly knowledgeable and loves Porsches. Also doesn't want to screw anyone over. I had three highly recommended Indies quote me 750 for just an aos change. Kurt was 366.

As far as most ims failures being pre 2000, the best bearing was the double row bearing found on earlier cars. Most 01s and 02-05 my cars have the weaker single row bearing. You van do a lot for your bearing by changing your oil frequently though.

Last edited by jdraupp; 12-14-2013 at 02:40 AM.
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Old 12-14-2013, 05:07 AM   #14
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Welcome to the forum - I'm in Chicago, my box is currently under a few inches of snow, parked on the street -- *gasp* ;^). Once you get the car sorted out, you should join the Chicago PCA chapter if you're interested in some fun Auto-X this summer. Also some excellent DE track events in the area...

If you're looking for a shop, I always recommend Midwest Performance Cars (near Ogden & Lake) -- very knowledgeable team from top to bottom. They've done all the work on mine, including clutch & IMS bearing.

Midwest Performance Cars | BMW Repair, Mercedes Repair & Porsche Repair in ChicagoMidwest Performance Cars

Welcome,
Steve
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Old 12-16-2013, 01:23 PM   #15
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I'm getting my clutch and IMS bearing replaced.

Was the Ceramic IMS bearing around 650, or was I thinking of the Retrofit?

Should I go OEM or performance clutch?
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Old 12-16-2013, 02:11 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alanqning View Post
I'm getting my clutch and IMS bearing replaced.

Was the Ceramic IMS bearing around 650, or was I thinking of the Retrofit?

Should I go OEM or performance clutch?
Welcome & kudos to you for acquiring knowledge & accepting good advice so fast.

The LNengineering IMS bearing was the 1st & is the best, LN is close to you in Momence but they don't do installs. Their IMSB retrofit bearing is about $650.
Read all about it on the LN website & choose 1 of their approved local installers.

The best clutch for you is what came in your car made by Sachs.

If you want to replace your wheels take your time since you won't get to use them until spring. If you decide to drive it now get appropriate rear tires only.

Sounds like you will want to go 18" for summer tires, stock size is best as anything bigger adds weight & reduces handling feel & acceleration. Porsches are about quality not quantity. Once you select tires choose the wheels.
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Old 12-16-2013, 02:25 PM   #17
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Byprodriver,

Why do you say that the OEM (I assume would be Sach) Clutch is the best for the car? I was thinking of putting in a performance clutch + aluminum flywheel. As I said, I plan on keeping this car forever, etc.

I plan on taking the car to the track a few times, and 98% of the time driving it only in the summer.

I have a independent mechanic that does all my work.

::EDIT::

Given what I said, I would still like to hear opposing opinions.
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Last edited by alanqning; 12-16-2013 at 03:16 PM.
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Old 12-16-2013, 04:30 PM   #18
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The OEM dual-mass flywheel is the only part that absorbs harmonic vibrations. If you replace it with a notoriously unbalanced lighter flywheel your engine will suffer & the transmission will be louder.

I use the high-perf original clutch in my 3.6L Boxster, why waste money on anything else?
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Old 12-16-2013, 08:14 PM   #19
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I've done a little research and seems a few other issues arise with the aluminum flywheel. What about light wheel steel flywheels though?

My choice so far probably is the following, but I'd still like to hear your thoughts on the light weight steel flywheels.

Pelican Parts - Product Information: 101P-986-P044B

This seems like a pretty solid set, it has the Sach's clutch and Luk's flywheel. What about upgrading the clutch though?

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