09-23-2013, 04:56 PM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Tx
Posts: 259
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rear sway bar bushings video
looking for a rattle... I pulled the passenger rear wheel off to wiggle around, and this is what I found...
986 rear sway bar bushings - YouTube
I don't believe the drop links are a problem, but there seemed to be some lateral play in the sway bar itself... leading me to believe it's just the bushings. Do you think it's just worn out rubber bushings?? I'm not 100% sure.
Thanks,
Chris
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Chris Dennis, Plano, Texas
'07 Boxster, arctic silver, Tiptronic, 106k miles, no mods
‘13 Boxster S, black on black, PDK, 27k miles, garage queen
‘66 Mooney M20E, hangar queen
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09-25-2013, 07:50 AM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Tx
Posts: 259
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Anyone know of an inexpensive fix for the sway bar rattle...perhaps replace the rubber bushing?
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Chris Dennis, Plano, Texas
'07 Boxster, arctic silver, Tiptronic, 106k miles, no mods
‘13 Boxster S, black on black, PDK, 27k miles, garage queen
‘66 Mooney M20E, hangar queen
Last edited by texomawaves; 09-25-2013 at 07:55 AM.
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09-25-2013, 03:13 PM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Queensland, Australia
Posts: 1,522
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Tex....
When I replaced my drop links & control arms earlier this year, I don't remember the sway bars being able to move laterally, but I think they will if the wheels are off the ground and the drop links & bushes are worn / loose. Certainly the drop links rattle when worn - you can replace them quite cheaply.
You can replace the sway bar bushes with aftermarket, I just removed them, cleaned the bushes and lubed with lithium grease as they were squeaking. They were tight on the bar.
The drop liks are a favorite wear item if your car has done a big mileage or driven on rough roads (do you have rough roads in TX?), but I think they are only about $50 each to replace. As a temporary cure to the rattle, you can remove the drop links, prise open the rubber boot from the shaft end and fill with lithium grease from a pressurised can - this will (should) stop the rattle temporarily.
As a side note - I chased a front end rattle for months - replacing first the drop links, then the steering rods, then the shock top mounts and finally the lower control arms. Of course it was the last item to change out at fault (control arms) but it cost me a lot of time, effort and money as you cant tell whats worn just by levering the suspension or bouncing the car while static......
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2001 Boxster S (triple black). Sleeping easier with LN Engineering/Flat 6 IMS upgrade, low temp thermostat & underspeed pulley.
2001 MV Agusta F4.
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09-25-2013, 03:28 PM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: O.C. CA
Posts: 3,709
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Rear swaybar has a integral sleeve that limits lateral movement. I don't think the bushing can rattle. Replace the drop links
Last edited by BYprodriver; 09-25-2013 at 03:31 PM.
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09-25-2013, 05:42 PM
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#5
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Need For Speed
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Funville
Posts: 2,112
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Anyone have a link for the drop links replacement procedure?
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09-25-2013, 06:53 PM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Queensland, Australia
Posts: 1,522
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I've not seen one except in the Bentleys Manual, but the procedure is very simple:
1) Jack up car & remove both wheels on the same axis. Both wheels must be in suspension to help removal.
2) Undo & remove top nut of drop link to suspension.
3) Undo & remove bottom nut of drop link to ARB.
4) Pull off drop link
5) Install new drop link (as they say) in reverse order.
This shouldn't take more than half an hour per side.
__________________
2001 Boxster S (triple black). Sleeping easier with LN Engineering/Flat 6 IMS upgrade, low temp thermostat & underspeed pulley.
2001 MV Agusta F4.
Last edited by Steve Tinker; 09-25-2013 at 06:57 PM.
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09-26-2013, 10:36 AM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 22
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I Just replaced the rear drop links on my 2001...
Steve's procedure is correct, however, prepare yourself for some heavy pounding etc if the top shaft (attached to the shock) is frozen in place.
It took me a few hours of banging and oiling and even heating with torches to get the top shaft to break free so it could be removed.
Actually had to remove calipers to be able to get at the bolt from opposite side to help ease it out.
Once its out though, the new one went in quick and the reassembly is simple...
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09-27-2013, 12:03 PM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Tx
Posts: 259
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:dance: Thank you!! I'll order some rear drop links, and give it a try. I'll shop around online. Yea the county roads here in Texas can be pretty bumpy.
__________________
Chris Dennis, Plano, Texas
'07 Boxster, arctic silver, Tiptronic, 106k miles, no mods
‘13 Boxster S, black on black, PDK, 27k miles, garage queen
‘66 Mooney M20E, hangar queen
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