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Old 01-11-2006, 09:23 PM   #1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tqtran
Are you referring to the "slip sleeve" problem? I've never heard of it as the "seconds blocks".
It was covered in the April '05 issue of Panorama magazine in the Tech Q&A section. "Not quite perfect blocks" is the description they used in the article. The manufacturer of the blocks' (Kolbenschmidt) casting machine broke down in their factory so they bored out and sleeved the not quite perfect blocks because Boxster production would have slowed tremendously. Liners were pressed in to repair the blocks and several were pressed in harder than the top retaining ring could handle so the ring would crack underneath. When the ring fails during engine operation, pieces fall into the cylinder, the piston rings grab the debris and that's all she wrote. The casting machine was down from 10/98- "early '99" so that's why I'd stay away from those build dates.
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Old 01-11-2006, 10:01 PM   #2
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well its kind of like the 911, if you're considering between an 86 or 87 go with the 87 because of the drastically revised tranny. Same goes with the Boxster. The changes were significant enough that the price difference between a 99 and 2000 can't justify going with the "unrevised" Boxster.
From a resale point of view not going with a 2000 could cost you money.

btw, you can go with a dealer to the Auctions in Manheim. Its open to the public but bidding is limited to actual dealers.
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Old 01-11-2006, 10:33 PM   #3
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If any of us were truly sane, we wouldn't be spending tens of thousands of dollars on a depreciating asset like a sports car anyway.
If you like the car and are satisfied with the price, go for it.
If you pay a dollar for it, somebody will say they can buy a better one for 50 cents, so ignore that stuff.
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Old 01-12-2006, 02:46 AM   #4
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Sanity is in the eye of the beholder. Pull the trigger on this one since it meets your expectations. Always keep it in good shape. If you out grow it, sell and buy something else. Don't miss another moment of enjoying a Box. Life is getting shorter as we speak.
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Old 01-12-2006, 04:52 AM   #5
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How can you tell month a car was manfactured? The vin doesnt tell you month correct? My car was assembeled in Uusikaupunki, Finland anyway heres the vin
WPOCA2985XU624507 sorry not trying to hijack I found my build date......11/98 so I guess I have one of the seconds blocks, doh
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Last edited by ohioboxster; 01-12-2006 at 05:01 AM. Reason: Found build date
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Old 01-12-2006, 07:12 AM   #6
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"btw, you can go with a dealer to the Auctions in Manheim. Its open to the public but bidding is limited to actual dealers"

This is not accurate, as so far as Manheim on the West Coast.

Dealers only!

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Old 01-12-2006, 07:51 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ohioboxster
How can you tell month a car was manfactured? The vin doesnt tell you month correct? My car was assembeled in Uusikaupunki, Finland anyway heres the vin
WPOCA2985XU624507 sorry not trying to hijack I found my build date......11/98 so I guess I have one of the seconds blocks, doh
To put your mind at ease, they also said the problem shows up quickly if the liner was pressed in too hard. Usually within the first 10K miles. You have to take into account the stock of engines they had on hand and how far in advance they build them. I'd imagine with a build date of 11/98, your engine was probably made 2-3 months before that.

Please don't worry too much about the problem if you already have one within the build dates. The failure of problem engines usually happens early so you most likely don't have a problem 6 years later and many miles into the engine. I have a 2000, but the head gasket could blow tomorrow and engine seize, who knows. I just think somebody looking at a used car should have all of the info available to them and put the odds in their favor.

Whichever model you get, enjoy the heck out of it.
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Old 01-12-2006, 08:39 AM   #8
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"Whichever model you get, enjoy the heck out of it."

Indeed! As my namesake once said--"Don't think, FEEL!"

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