CV Boot Q - Drive Axle

[seventythree]

Originally Posted by Gforrest2

Wow. When I got my PPI, I was told my boots were torn and that they should be replaced soon. That was 2 years and 6000 miles ago. My plan was a DIY too, but after reading all this, I guess I'll just pony up the money and have it done. I was quoted $250, which I thought was great until I was told, $250 each ($1,000). I applaud you that can do this work yourself. I wish I had your skills.

That's probably $250 for each axle, for a total of $500. Even that is a little on the high side.

[barkinfool]

Sorry for the delay in writing this up, but with the Christmas holiday & then the snowstorm, was only able to get back to this today. Well, I'm happy to say that after many hours of effort, I was able to successfully complete this project last week! I couldn't have done it without the help of forum members. Thank you all!

This project to replace a torn CV boot looked at the outset to be fairly simple, but in fact it took an enormous amount of time due to my lack of prior experience and some challenging conditions. It seemed like every step I took that sounded simple was actually pretty difficult (for me) for some reason or another. A few of my experiences that might help another who is working on the driver's side (LHD) CV boot in particular:

1. To remove the driver's side axle without dropping down the exhaust, you should definitely invest in the ball joint tool shaped like the Porsche version. Mine was about $17 at Harbor Freight & it was definitely the tool for the job. Prior to purchasing that I bought two generic "pickle" forks which weren't effective for getting the joint initially popped, but they did end up being helpful for completing separation & also in reassembling so they weren't wasted.

2. Heat, a brass drift & hammer & PB Blaster were all very helpful in breaking the half axle free. It took a lot of force to pound the axle to get it removed. Once the axle was free, it was pretty easy to manipulate it and free it from the tight confines and get it removed.

3. Removing the inner CV from the axle again took some pounding with the drift. As Meir posted, you pound it from the inner edge so it is driven off of the axle, but again it needed a pounding.

4. Repacking with new grease was a very messy job. Nitrile gloves or better are a must because you will break through cheap latex gloves many, many times.

5. Getting the CV boots over the CV lip required heating the boots up with hair dryer because the garage was fairly cold & even then lots of hand strength on greasy and tight surface. Then getting the clamps stretched to their locking position using a couple flathead screwdrivers was a struggle. I had a pinch clamp tool, but it really wasn't the correct type of clamp tool and hence the screwdrivers -- so it was a struggle especially with the grease residue even with things wiped off. I ended up replacing the boots and repacking the joints on both the outer and the inner side, but the CV joints were in good shape so no change needed there.

6. I thought reassembly would be easy, but it took some extra time to get the outer wheel in the proper position so that I could slide it onto the splines & then pound in the axle. I used the pickle forks to reconnect the ball joints and I'm not sure how I would have been able to do so without using them for leverage -- and it still took some time to get it figured out. From that point on, finishing out the job was finally simple.

I'm a novice and while it is good to accomplish this, it took a LONG time. If I was looking at the driver's side again, I think I would buy the half axle and at least the job would be a little easier vs messing with it as much as this required. The cost of having an indy do this seems very reasonable vs what it required of me. This was one job that really wasn't fun imo. Now for me the question is should I tackle the other side next winter or when the other boot fails...

Hope these notes helps someone else. Thanks again to all that assisted me!

[The Radium King]

it was that experience that has me religiously treating my cv boots with rubber protectant on an annual basis.

[Meir]

great job.
just for the one to follow.
it is much more easy to remove the catalytic convectors then disassembling the suspension (in my opinion at least)

[barkinfool]

Thank you both for your comments during my time of need! TRK, I think your suggestion to apply protectant each year is a highly recommended practice and something I would have happily done if I had known. Now I know & hopefully others will benefit from this advice as well! Have a great weekend.

[Meir]

Originally Posted by The Radium King

it was that experience that has me religiously treating my cv boots with rubber protectant on an annual basis.

which product are you using?